SC10 4x4 Thread
I am running emulsion set-up and prefer it for many reasons. First the bladders that come with the kit are firm and not so good. I also prefer the lack of rebound so that the damping is managed without additional spring action. Another reason is that I like the bleed screws for getting every shock tuned to the same level every time.
I plan to someday get FT shocks so I can install the kit shocks on my Jammin SCRT10.
I plan to someday get FT shocks so I can install the kit shocks on my Jammin SCRT10.

i personally dont like emulsion setup because it takes at least a lap or two for them to settle down. to emulsify is to mix air and oil and that takes a minute or so to happen assuming you built them that way. seems to me that if you build a bladderless shock with no air to mix you are not truly emulsifying??? on the rebound thing , everytime i build an emuslify shock the rebound seems more pronounced than the bladder style ( at least the way i build them anyway!!). lately since i use the 2 stage pistons i have been building my shocks bladder style, no rebound and leaving the bleed screw completely out. this makes for EASY builds and the truck acts the same from start to finish, the also allows the pistons to be more accurate with the rebound. to properly build an emulsion shock accurately you need either a shock matcher or a syringe to make sure the oil levels are exact and even then, all shocks leak so eventually they end up uneven!!
Emulsion has way more betta traction than bladders , that why most use ...
A lap or two to settle down ?
Tip
bladders perform best on outdoor big air jumps & bumpy tracks..
emulsion best for indoor

A lap or two to settle down ?

Tip
bladders perform best on outdoor big air jumps & bumpy tracks..
emulsion best for indoor
interesting, lets discuss shall we?
i personally dont like emulsion setup because it takes at least a lap or two for them to settle down. to emulsify is to mix air and oil and that takes a minute or so to happen assuming you built them that way. seems to me that if you build a bladderless shock with no air to mix you are not truly emulsifying??? on the rebound thing , everytime i build an emuslify shock the rebound seems more pronounced than the bladder style ( at least the way i build them anyway!!). lately since i use the 2 stage pistons i have been building my shocks bladder style, no rebound and leaving the bleed screw completely out. this makes for EASY builds and the truck acts the same from start to finish, the also allows the pistons to be more accurate with the rebound. to properly build an emulsion shock accurately you need either a shock matcher or a syringe to make sure the oil levels are exact and even then, all shocks leak so eventually they end up uneven!!

i personally dont like emulsion setup because it takes at least a lap or two for them to settle down. to emulsify is to mix air and oil and that takes a minute or so to happen assuming you built them that way. seems to me that if you build a bladderless shock with no air to mix you are not truly emulsifying??? on the rebound thing , everytime i build an emuslify shock the rebound seems more pronounced than the bladder style ( at least the way i build them anyway!!). lately since i use the 2 stage pistons i have been building my shocks bladder style, no rebound and leaving the bleed screw completely out. this makes for EASY builds and the truck acts the same from start to finish, the also allows the pistons to be more accurate with the rebound. to properly build an emulsion shock accurately you need either a shock matcher or a syringe to make sure the oil levels are exact and even then, all shocks leak so eventually they end up uneven!!
Thanks guys. A lil bit of both. I'll play with it on the track.
Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 203
From: Virginia
LMFAO OMG THAT WAS SO F@&KING FUNNY


Tech Adept
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 203
From: Virginia
I like the emulsion setup like some say u dont get the donkey kick on some of the jumps. The way I do mine is the same way they show u on the AE site and tell me if i am wrong but i dont think there is any air in the shock when u r done. It is almost like having an oil filled shock like in some full size cars and it uses the suspenion to pull the shock back out. But like I said if Im wrong let me know Im by no mean a pro at this.......not yet lol
well Craig just said to pump them for about 20seconds and thats about a lap, how long do you think it takes for the emulsion to happen? its not instant! i also stated that i use 2 stage pistons so its an entirely different ballgame than what you are used to. care to explain why emulsion works better on indoor tracks? and not just because everyone does it that way, i would like an educated explanation for discussion purposes or even a link woudl be good

Not even important or a issue
It has no effect on the fact that the bladders make more pack , thus less traction ..
Not like one is better than the other , they are both tuning options and I already recommended where they perform best ...
two stage pistons?
Oreally now ...
tip
stick with the factory driver shock set-ups
How long ?
Not even important or a issue
It has no effect on the fact that the bladders make more pack , thus less traction ..
Not like one is better than the other , they are both tuning options and I already recommended where they perform best ...
two stage pistons?
Oreally now ...
tip
stick with the factory shock set-ups
Not even important or a issue
It has no effect on the fact that the bladders make more pack , thus less traction ..
Not like one is better than the other , they are both tuning options and I already recommended where they perform best ...
two stage pistons?
Oreally now ...
tip
stick with the factory shock set-ups
how is that not important? if you are sitting on the grid for longer than usuall because someone calls a minute than your first lap handling will not be the same.
bladders will create more pack if you leave the bleed screw in, screw out =less pack.
why stick with factory pistons and go slower? using a factory setup only works for that track, that day and that driver. it may get you close but ultimately you have to make changes to suit your track and driving style.
TIP= only give advice on things that you have experience with, obviously you have not tried 2 stage pistons, so you dont know what they do. there fore your tip is just a guess

i do have a serious question for you though, since some say build the shock with air and no bladder and some say no air /no bladder and then you have bladder style. is there technically three ways of building shocks in that sense?
how is that not important? if you are sitting on the grid for longer than usuall because someone calls a minute than your first lap handling will not be the same.
bladders will create more pack if you leave the bleed screw in, screw out =less pack.
why stick with factory pistons and go slower?
TIP= only give advice on things that you have experience with, obviously you have not tried 2 stage pistons, so you dont know what they do. there fore your tip is just a guess
bladders will create more pack if you leave the bleed screw in, screw out =less pack.
why stick with factory pistons and go slower?
TIP= only give advice on things that you have experience with, obviously you have not tried 2 stage pistons, so you dont know what they do. there fore your tip is just a guess

Two stage pistons have been available for R/c longer than you have been racing ....
Don't assume I have not used before please...
question
Why not run a part that a faster driver than even you recommends using ?
odds are that i am older than you, so dont assume they have been around longer than me. secondly, you have not tried my 2 stage pistons which are not the same as what you think you know of. thats like saying all tires are the same, which they are not.
the factory drivers can drive an ACME brick with roller skate wheels faster than most so i dont think that is a fair statement . i for one know a few fast factory dudes, some of their cars i simply cannot drive some i can. like i said their cars are for them not the masses. setup sheets are only givin for a general starting point. thats all i am saying....
odds are that i am older than you, so dont assume they have been around longer than me. secondly, you have not tried my 2 stage pistons which are not the same as what you think you know of. thats like saying all tires are the same, which they are not.
the factory drivers can drive an ACME brick with roller skate wheels faster than most so i dont think that is a fair statement . i for one know a few fast factory dudes, some of their cars i simply cannot drive some i can. like i said their cars are for them not the masses. setup sheets are only givin for a general starting point. thats all i am saying....
the factory drivers can drive an ACME brick with roller skate wheels faster than most so i dont think that is a fair statement . i for one know a few fast factory dudes, some of their cars i simply cannot drive some i can. like i said their cars are for them not the masses. setup sheets are only givin for a general starting point. thats all i am saying....
One of first 10 members of this BB board , been racing sense 83 ...
I'm 55 ....
and yeah ,
nobody likes getting beat by a old bald guy with yellow Novak T-shirt driving pink JConcepts Raptor...
no body....

You may have trouble driving a faster car , cus your just not used to it...
Why ?
Mostly because most always try to make their car easier to drive and kill corner speed and steering.....



5Likes