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Old 11-25-2011 | 09:18 PM
  #11476  
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I have the 4600 with power turned down, I think if i went down to a 4000 it wouldnt feel much different than my castle 3800.
Running on a hard dusty surface tomorrow for a toys for tots race. Cant wait to get new chassis.
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Old 11-25-2011 | 09:24 PM
  #11477  
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Originally Posted by BQRacer
Hey all I’m running JR Mitch’s Indoor, blue groove, high-traction, bumpy. At the end of our straight away we have a 90* turn that takes you to a triple. I have a hard time making it, on entry of the 90* turn my rear end wants to step out on me. What setup changes should I start trying? I went to the yellow rear springs and it felt that same. I was also wondering how I could get a little more on power steering?

thanks
I wouldn't go by this setup, as it was for the track i race at weekly, and posted just after the sc10 4x4 came out. it was basically a stock setup, and it is not fast for anyone else at this track. it was only competitive because jr mitch was running it.
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Old 11-25-2011 | 10:11 PM
  #11478  
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Originally Posted by socalrcer
Dude, 4600 and the new chassis, I am going to have to seriously work on my driving to have a chance. I can't race tomorrow, hoping to race next Friday.
4600 motor, exotek chassis, and a new RX8...I don't know why my wife said yes...but I'm SURE she's planning something big!
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Old 11-25-2011 | 10:13 PM
  #11479  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
I have the 4600 with power turned down, I think if i went down to a 4000 it wouldnt feel much different than my castle 3800.
Running on a hard dusty surface tomorrow for a toys for tots race. Cant wait to get new chassis.
I probably should have gone with the 4000 motor anyway...maybe that will be my wish for Valentines day??
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Old 11-25-2011 | 10:16 PM
  #11480  
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Whats the best recommended setup everyone is using? Im getting my SC10 for xmas and would like to get everything I need for a good starting setup before I get the kit. I mostly need diff and shock oil along with springs and Ive already ordered my swaybars.
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Old 11-26-2011 | 07:50 AM
  #11481  
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Anyone running the STRC shocks? Are they hard anodized?
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Old 11-26-2011 | 08:21 AM
  #11482  
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
I'm not knocking rcshox's product in any way. But as an alternative to the ACK bar wouldn't one be able to switch the stock bar around? I test fitted it last night and fits fights but you have to grind away the bell-crank like in the ACK bar install manual (which I am not willing to do right now). Granted it's not adjustable and probably no where near as good as the real thing but for those on a tight budget like me it might just work. I remember people did the reverse on the blitz to get more steering so there's no reason why it cant be done here.
Once again I think rcshox's solution is much better but this might work with no additional parts.
i too looked at doing this as well. i am not willing to sacrifice the strength of the bell crank . so i just purchased the ack bar and love how adjustable it is
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Old 11-26-2011 | 08:42 AM
  #11483  
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Originally Posted by cjtamu
Anyone running the STRC shocks? Are they hard anodized?
hard anodizing is not colored it only comes in one color and the differences in that color depend on the material (6061,7075 etc etc ) the STRC bodies are just anodized, as far as i know only the FT bodies are hardened, it took about a month before my colored stock bodies started to turn the oil silver.
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Old 11-26-2011 | 10:00 AM
  #11484  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
hard anodizing is not colored it only comes in one color and the differences in that color depend on the material (6061,7075 etc etc ) the STRC bodies are just anodized, as far as i know only the FT bodies are hardened, it took about a month before my colored stock bodies started to turn the oil silver.
yeah, i know. should have been more specific, was looking at the gun metal ones and hoping they were, but it doesn't say so. Have to pony up for FT set i guess.

Oh yeah. Don't think i am going to kty today lol. Will hit tomorrow if weather clears.
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Old 11-26-2011 | 10:13 AM
  #11485  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I can drive it fine with the slipper and a basket. It's just not as fast as pinned with the track all rutted up. I think on a smooth track it would be slower with the pin.



Or maybe two pads isn't enough? It's not enough for the factory AE guys, here is (I think) Pudge's truck with multi part slipper at the Reedy race:





4.5 550 ballistic is mass power?



I'm not convinced I need less, but maybe. The truck was easier to drive with the 6.5 540, but thermaled in six minutes with enough gear to be racy with the Losi trucks at my local track. Maybe somewhere in between.



Mine is pretty close to there, maybe less, never hotter. With the stock two disc slipper it was so hot after seven minutes you couldn't touch the gear cover. And you could no longer double the same section you could triple early on.



After 10 minutes, my battery only takes about 1700 MAH. With the basket, that is.



Still don't understand why you are getting that heat issue with slipper ...

sorry ...



1700 after 10m ?
That's more betta then even my b-4 dude ...



Pic of Cav 4x4

Kool...
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Old 11-26-2011 | 10:58 AM
  #11486  
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Had mine out in back yard with the basket for the first time definitely could notice a difference. I need to shim my diffs cause the small clicking sound heard before is much worse. And then I ran it through a pile of my neighbor's dogs shit and that ended my fun.


what shims are people using?
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Old 11-26-2011 | 11:25 AM
  #11487  
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I just installed sway bars on my truck. I was wondering how much, if any wire is hanging out of the sway bar bracket. I've been working on my setup and the issue im still having is loose in and push out of the corners. Also its has a tendancy to jump nose down, Any ideas. Thanks.
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Old 11-26-2011 | 11:50 AM
  #11488  
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Originally Posted by 19_mustang_96
I just installed sway bars on my truck. I was wondering how much, if any wire is hanging out of the sway bar bracket. I've been working on my setup and the issue im still having is loose in and push out of the corners. Also its has a tendancy to jump nose down, Any ideas. Thanks.
Make sure to remove all the drag brake from the ESC to help with the nose dive..
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Old 11-26-2011 | 11:52 AM
  #11489  
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Unhappy SC10 4x4 w/ Velineon Setup Help

I really need some help:

Currently, I have a SC10 4x4 with a Traxxas Velineon motor/ ESC setup using the optional 18t pinion from my Slash 4x4 and AE's 32P spur gear. The problem is that the ESC and motor are running extremely HOT (motor is about 220 F & ESC 154 F). I'm guessing my gearing is the problem. What would you suggest I use instead? By the way, I am using a 2s lipo to power truck.

Thanks,
JD
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Old 11-26-2011 | 11:52 AM
  #11490  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
I can drive it fine with the slipper and a basket. It's just not as fast as pinned with the track all rutted up. I think on a smooth track it would be slower with the pin.



Or maybe two pads isn't enough? It's not enough for the factory AE guys, here is (I think) Pudge's truck with multi part slipper at the Reedy race:





4.5 550 ballistic is mass power?



I'm not convinced I need less, but maybe. The truck was easier to drive with the 6.5 540, but thermaled in six minutes with enough gear to be racy with the Losi trucks at my local track. Maybe somewhere in between.



Mine is pretty close to there, maybe less, never hotter. With the stock two disc slipper it was so hot after seven minutes you couldn't touch the gear cover. And you could no longer double the same section you could triple early on.



After 10 minutes, my battery only takes about 1700 MAH. With the basket, that is.
This is not Ryan's truck, for one: no saddle packs, #2, no gold shock shafts, #3 reedy batt (Ryan runs Orion)
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