What aluminum hexes is everyone using?? I was thinking about STRC, but wanted to get some opinions from everyone before I get any. Stockers are starting to wear out I think. I didn't have a problem with them, but I was gonna upgrade to aluminum. I may just stick with stock ones also. Any opinions??

Thanks for the help guys. I'm gonna head down to the hobby stop this morning to try out their track and I'll probably end up asking their opinion on the servo too and probably pick one up. Is there a minimum torque I shouldn't go below on one?

Chris

Different pitches- Easiest way to explain is the finer the pitch the smoother & quieter things will be. However, if you're running that big bad 4.5 motor you might be better off running 32 pitch. While it might be noisy, it will handle the extreme power.

32 pitch has largest teeth, 48 pitch is smaller (pretty much what we all run) and on-road cars usually run 64 pitch.

As far as strain on the motor- keep your drivetrain free. Anything binding will put strain on your motor.

Hope that helps.

What type of radio system do you have? I've been using a Futaba 3PM for about 3 years now. My 1/8th scale buggy has BLS451 servos. For my SC10 I'm using a stubby Futaba- S9452.

Anything that has at least 100oz/in torque should do.

I have a Team Associated XP3-SS that came with the truck. I bought a Hitec HS-5645MG servo today with 168 oz.in torque and it seems to handle turning the tires under load no problem now. I also drove the truck with the 40c battery for the first time today too, and from a dead stop it pops wheelies now on the pavement, so it definitely made a difference too. I didn't get a chance to drive on the track today, because it rained last night, but hopefully tomorrow I'll get back down there and give it a try on the dirt and see how it does then. I also fine tuned the front end a bit, adjusting the toe and camber, and it made a decent difference, as well. I really appreciate all the help guys.

Chris

I'm trying to rebuild my FT ball diff. How can I tell if the diff balls are bad and need to be replaced? Also, the guy at the LHS that AE's silicone grease is the same as their diff lube but I'm not sure that is the case. Does anyone know if they are the same? To me it looks like the grease if heavier than the lube and may be causing the diff to bind.

Thanks.

I use Rear JConcepts 12mm HEX and Front stock Hex with a hole drilled in them with a set screw. I ran the STRC hex and found they made my truck to wide and the tires hit the body...

I have not had any problems with the front Stock plastic Hex., I have had problems with the rear stock plastic hex where that little tab smashes and the wheel is lose due to the axle nut hitting the none threaded part of the axle... I have not had this problem when I went to the JConcepts hex in the rear

To me a little wider stance would be helpful in turning, but is there some sort of rule on maximum width or tired sticking outside of the fenders when racing?

Chris

IMO stability would be the big plus. The Hazards are 3mm more outboard but still legal. I like 'em.

In my opinion the thrust bearing is usually the first thing to go. A lot of guys will flip the rings over and use the other side with the same balls. Read the sticky note thing about building a ball diff at the beginning of this area of the forums.

Easiest way to tell is just to replace them. But make sure the rings don't have a groove in them. Same goes for the thrust bearing.

Use the clear AE lube on the big balls & black lube on the thrust assembly. It's cheap, works great, and lasts a long time. Sure, everyone has their magic mojo lube. The AE stuff is good. Pro guys use it.

Thanks for the reply. I rebuilt the diff according to the videos posted by Racer53 in the sticky at the top of this forum. It's still not working right. I replaced the thrust balls but reused the diff balls. Also replaced the rings, spring, etc.

AE makes two clear lubes/greases. One is called silicone grease and the other is diff lube. The guy at the LHS said they are the same thing so I used the silicone grease since I already had it. But on the package it says that it is not for use with stealth transmissions. The guy at the store said that a stealth transmission is a gear diff. The silicone stuff seems thicker than what is used in the videos and now the diff won't work right . When the truck is on the stand it seems fine but if you put it on the ground it barely moves. I'm trying to figure out if I should replace the balls or if I used the wrong lube.

Well I looked at ROAR and found this
6.1.9 For closed-wheel bodies, no portion of the chassis, wheel, tire, or equipment
may extend beyond the body except to the rear

I am not sure that rule above really applies to a SCT or not but this one does

8.10.12.5.1 Full fender truck body. Body must completely cover tires when viewed from above

and Overall Width is Maximum 296mm (11.65 in)

With the STRC front HEX my tires can be seen from above the body. and I do not like the body hitting the tires when landing which in turn cuts slots in the tire

I do agree that a wider stance can help is handling to a point. You also have to redo your suspension setup to work with it.

all good and fun

I check the wheel nuts with a nut driver everytime I set it on the track, I have not sptriped a wheel in 14 mos.

So what type of soldering Iron are you guys using? Also what Solder? My little iron is pissing me off and I think the solder I am using is too thick. It is like 5 years old and I don't even remember where and why I bought it... Thanks for the info...

hakko,60/40 rosin core,had it for 12yrs