Has anyone tried the contender body yet?

So, my next question then would be which bodies sit are designed for maximum width of 11.65"? Thanks for the details...I really appreciate it.

Chris

just bought a hobbico 60w and some Novak Silver solder. Good stuff. Will get a better iron later, but as long as you keep the tip tinned, it should be good to go.

I really do not know. There was a rule in there about the body and what needed to be on it.

I didn't read to far into all the rules. I never plan to race a ROAR event. I do not believe in most the rules. Our local tracks mainly use the Class rules so people do not need to change a lot of stuff (motors etc) I just checked my Pro Line Flow-tec body and it covers the wheels from above on the 2wd

Fair enough...I appreciate the help.

Chris

I agree with you about Spectrum reciever's. Making the switch to Futaba after the Holiday's. However, Let's say you put a amp and subs in your 1:1. Everything works and sounds great. But durning certain frequency's and amplitude output. You notice your lights are dimming. Amp draw! Will it kill your car? NO. A Cap stores current. So when you get a brief moment of higher amp draw. The total electrical system has enough voltage to properly function. So even though you may not have encounter any issues. You most certainly would benefit from a cap.

I tried to find some more info. I found this. and TBO, it made me a little mad lol

6.1.3.4 All approved bodies are required to have the manufacturer's ID and Body
number molded into the lower portion of the windshield or on the body below
the point where a windshield would have been on the full scale counterpart.
Otherwise, the proof of the legality of a questionable body is the responsibility
of the driver.

6.1.4 Throughout an event, the body must be complete, neatly finished, painted, and
trimmed. Detailed headlights, signal markers, grille and taillights appropriate for
each vehicle (where applicable) must be applied by paint or decal. These
details should be in significant contrast to the body in order to make them
clearly visible. No clear areas except windshields and windows are allowed. No
clear areas or stripes through body colors are permitted.

^^ Really? it's a damn RC car. lmao

I found a list for fuel off road bodies they do not allow.
Durango DNX408
JC Illuzion Ve8 HF
JC Illuzion MBX6
•PL Bulldog (All)
Serpent 811
Kyosho MP9 TKI2

Not able to find any SCT bodies though

I am not liking ROAR at all.

Nobody likes ROAR...

Guys- What size drill bit do I need to fit Losi (rear) hub carriers on my SC10? I'd like to get everything in one trip...

My LHS didn't have any of the $6 cap's, so they sold me a $25 BEC and said it was better anyway. I am inclined to believe him but I like the sound of $6, but I don't mind $25 as long as it is the better option anyway.

Thanks Brent...No track driving for me again today, so until I really see what it's like on the track, I'm not going to mess with it anymore I don't think. After that, I'm sure I'll be doing some more tweaking.

Chris

I pull my caps from a old stereo power supply board. 4700uf 10v is the value of spektrum's glitch buster. The value needs to be AT or above this value. My current cap has a value of 6800uf 25v and it's free! Having a BEC is never bad. Just not really necessary if you are running a 2s lipo. 3s lipo and above you should have a BEC.

Will a BEC or a CAP prevent glitching? There loose power every now and then for a second in my SC10. This doesn't happen in my other cars. I'm using the same Airtronics radio in all of them. Any suggestions?

The cap (capacitor) will prevent glitching. It stores energy kind of like a battery. Check your local Radio Shack or any good electronics supply store.

Is glitching when you give it gas, then it locks up for a second then takes off again? Also, anyone have a picture or part number on a good capacitor and how to install it on a SC10? If this prevents what I described above, I'm going to do it, because it's annoying.

Chris