SC10 Thread
#8041
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 133
this is what happens when the computer crashes before the mains,you put all the truck on the track at once
| + YouTube Video | |
#8042
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 280
From: San Diego
Removed what appears to be a capacitor from my Reedy ESC. It is the component that is between the esc and the battery plug. Power was cutting out before removal and now works fine. Question is do I need to replace the component or not. Also, what is the function of the component. After removing, I ran the truck and no apparent glitching. I have also have a glitch buster between the receiver and 6040 spektrum servo. Thanks
#8043
haha...thats crazy 20Smoke...its like a demolition derby =)
I took 3rd in the stock 17.5 A-main today with my sc10. In fact, the first 4 were all SC10s. Setup very similar (minus pinion, tires). I had the 3 fastest lap times too. Broke a caster block on the last double and limped past the finish line in 3rd. Ill get them next week.
Think my setup is almost dialed in....motor temped no higher than 155F, even after 2 heats and some practice, running 26/75 gearing, have my motor timing advanced (end bell, MAXED), also running some dynamic timing (another 20 degrees @ 6k rpm).
Still having some rear traction issues though, didnt mess too much with my suspension, but it seems my rear likes to slide out alot on braking turns. What you guys think? I played with slipper a bit to to help control my take offs in the straights.
I took 3rd in the stock 17.5 A-main today with my sc10. In fact, the first 4 were all SC10s. Setup very similar (minus pinion, tires). I had the 3 fastest lap times too. Broke a caster block on the last double and limped past the finish line in 3rd. Ill get them next week.
Think my setup is almost dialed in....motor temped no higher than 155F, even after 2 heats and some practice, running 26/75 gearing, have my motor timing advanced (end bell, MAXED), also running some dynamic timing (another 20 degrees @ 6k rpm).
Still having some rear traction issues though, didnt mess too much with my suspension, but it seems my rear likes to slide out alot on braking turns. What you guys think? I played with slipper a bit to to help control my take offs in the straights.
#8044
haha...thats crazy 20Smoke...its like a demolition derby =)
I took 3rd in the stock 17.5 A-main today with my sc10. In fact, the first 4 were all SC10s. Setup very similar (minus pinion, tires). I had the 3 fastest lap times too. Broke a caster block on the last double and limped past the finish line in 3rd. Ill get them next week.
Think my setup is almost dialed in....motor temped no higher than 155F, even after 2 heats and some practice, running 26/75 gearing, have my motor timing advanced (end bell, MAXED), also running some dynamic timing (another 20 degrees @ 6k rpm).
Still having some rear traction issues though, didnt mess too much with my suspension, but it seems my rear likes to slide out alot on braking turns. What you guys think? I played with slipper a bit to to help control my take offs in the straights.
I took 3rd in the stock 17.5 A-main today with my sc10. In fact, the first 4 were all SC10s. Setup very similar (minus pinion, tires). I had the 3 fastest lap times too. Broke a caster block on the last double and limped past the finish line in 3rd. Ill get them next week.
Think my setup is almost dialed in....motor temped no higher than 155F, even after 2 heats and some practice, running 26/75 gearing, have my motor timing advanced (end bell, MAXED), also running some dynamic timing (another 20 degrees @ 6k rpm).
Still having some rear traction issues though, didnt mess too much with my suspension, but it seems my rear likes to slide out alot on braking turns. What you guys think? I played with slipper a bit to to help control my take offs in the straights.
Regarding your rear traction issues, what springs are you running in the rear, and what toe block are you running?
#8045
I have recently moved to using the 12mm hexes. I have the JConcepts aluminum hexes in the rear. What is everyone using for the front....the stock plastic RS hexes?
BTW....I have a huge pile of JConcepts White Rulex wheels with like new JConcepts Green DD's, Subcultures, Goosebumps and Bar Codes if anyone is interested. I will let them go cheap. They are for the stock setup which is bearings in the front and pin in the rear.
Thanks
BTW....I have a huge pile of JConcepts White Rulex wheels with like new JConcepts Green DD's, Subcultures, Goosebumps and Bar Codes if anyone is interested. I will let them go cheap. They are for the stock setup which is bearings in the front and pin in the rear.
Thanks
#8047
Was thinking of that, will give that a try for sure.
I just bought that exact servo from hobby super store (local to me) for $60. I bought the cap just in case. I havent tried it without the cap, but its one fast servo. A tad loud though.
Im running the stock hub carriers, which are 0 i belive. Running the same setup as JR mitch (found here) This is the track i run at, same conditions.
I use Xcelorin 60C 6000mah batts, mainly because my 4wd SC (SCTE) needs the high C and mah rating so I use those batts in all my vehicles. I'm considering the Revtech 65C 6500mah as my next batt though, they're slightly cheaper.
+1, perfect for SC trucks, best bang for buck, but be careful, you may need a cap on your receiver to stop glitching/cogging. I run a spektrum cap in 2 out of my 4 Tekin RS setups, no cap needed on my RX8.
At least you finished your main. We had an 8 min A main in Pro2 Mod for a trophy race I attended this weekend. I was battling for 1st in the first 5 mins, and even took first place, but shortly after, a drive rollpin broke and I lost power to the left wheel. I couldn't even limp for the finish since there was at least 2 mins left. I was extremely upset, I even have the 12mm JC hex conversion. The last time I broke a rollpin was when I was still running the stock wheels.
Regarding your rear traction issues, what springs are you running in the rear, and what toe block are you running?
+1, perfect for SC trucks, best bang for buck, but be careful, you may need a cap on your receiver to stop glitching/cogging. I run a spektrum cap in 2 out of my 4 Tekin RS setups, no cap needed on my RX8.
At least you finished your main. We had an 8 min A main in Pro2 Mod for a trophy race I attended this weekend. I was battling for 1st in the first 5 mins, and even took first place, but shortly after, a drive rollpin broke and I lost power to the left wheel. I couldn't even limp for the finish since there was at least 2 mins left. I was extremely upset, I even have the 12mm JC hex conversion. The last time I broke a rollpin was when I was still running the stock wheels.
Regarding your rear traction issues, what springs are you running in the rear, and what toe block are you running?
Im running the stock hub carriers, which are 0 i belive. Running the same setup as JR mitch (found here) This is the track i run at, same conditions.
#8049
hey there u guys and gals out there, i traded a rustler for a sc10 rtr but i want to kno what parts do i need in order to make it a ft truck and make it handle as well also?
#8051
Yes, they are power hungry that is for sure.
Using a MMP need a BEC or glitch buster
Novak pro I do not need a BEC or glitch buster.
Stock RS ESC need a glitch Buster
#8052
Removed what appears to be a capacitor from my Reedy ESC. It is the component that is between the esc and the battery plug. Power was cutting out before removal and now works fine. Question is do I need to replace the component or not. Also, what is the function of the component. After removing, I ran the truck and no apparent glitching. I have also have a glitch buster between the receiver and 6040 spektrum servo. Thanks
What is the specs on your battery?
#8053
Was thinking of that, will give that a try for sure.
I just bought that exact servo from hobby super store (local to me) for $60. I bought the cap just in case. I havent tried it without the cap, but its one fast servo. A tad loud though.
Im running the stock hub carriers, which are 0 i belive. Running the same setup as JR mitch (found here) This is the track i run at, same conditions.
I just bought that exact servo from hobby super store (local to me) for $60. I bought the cap just in case. I havent tried it without the cap, but its one fast servo. A tad loud though.
Im running the stock hub carriers, which are 0 i belive. Running the same setup as JR mitch (found here) This is the track i run at, same conditions.
#8054
The power capacitor on the ESC is to filter the current through the ESC. I have fried an ESC cause the capacitor broke due to high current spikes going through the ESC. If you have a super high discharge battery it can supply whatever current your ESC delivers to the motor. Often times when you are running hard and hit the brakes you will spike the current feedback through the ESC and without the capacitor you will over current the FETs. So make sure you replace the capacitor.
What is the specs on your battery?
What is the specs on your battery?
#8055
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,776
Thanks man, I have to finish the installation up tonight. What are these glitch busters everyone has talked about? I turned my car on briefly to center the servo before installing the horn and I noticed it was going crazy. Looks like I'ma need to pick one up.



