Have you looked into what tires some of the faster guys are running?
I have battery forward. 3oz weight under foam behind the battery. 1/4 oz n front of the servo, 1/4 oz in front of the shock tower. My truck feels like it is on rails. I went from a castle 1410 3800kv motor back to the Stock RS Reedy 3300kv motor. went faster and was able to get more traction.

Also may want to look into gearing depending on where you are losing the traction,.

this one is 3 times cheaper and does the same thing a CF strap does
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...y-Strap-SC10RS

You need to take out the diff, open it up, and add a second spacer under one if not both sun gears(the ones that sit against the outdrives). While it's apart clean all the grease out and put 5k fluid in there.

I bought the plastic battery cover you recommended(not the carbon fiber), another battery, a rear swaybar, and the bleeder shock caps, so hoping to have them by Wednesday. Do most of you move the battery all the way back in the tray?

Chris

you have to try the battery placement track condition can play a part so you need to play with it

K, will do. Thanks for the help,

Chris

Love the AE Cahmp 09' body!

try 3/4" from rear of tray and see what you think. that worked for me.

Will do...I appreciate it. Wish they had everything in stock, so I could be putting it all together right now.

Chris

thanks for the help I will give it a try.

Anyone know what size screw is used on the jconcepts clamping 12mm rear hexes?

Anyone actually running a rear sway on their sc10? Ive seen a ton of them and not 1 person has had a rear sway...kinda wondering why they even make it for the 2wd.

I know people mod it to use it up front, thinking about doing it myself, but havent had any real reason too.

Btw, i took my foam, cut 1/3rd off it, put the big piece in the back and the small in the front, i actually bought an extra foam and cut it into 3 so i can mix and match, but havent changed it since really. Just to fit a longer lipo (had a soft pack lipo that was longer than a normal hard case). I also use the normal plastic battery strap...i use a couple turnigy hard cases and they are taller than normal. The carbon fiber strap i got broke when i tried cranking it down. It wasnt the pressure, it was the pack being too tall, and i could only back out the thread posts so much. The pastic lipo strap is tough....i can vouch for that, i even stepped on it the other day and it slight bent, alittle adjustment and it was straight again.

The sway bar was created a long time ago for the base B4 chassis to improve steering while not reducing rear forward traction. It works well for high bite tracks and helps manage forward traction vs. side bite. I have used the sway bar on all sorts of tracks on my SC10 but in the end I was able to dial in the chassis by using springs and oil and weight biasing. I have thought about using it again but just have too much going on to go after re-tuning the chassis without any Pro knowledge out there.

On the SC10 I already am running the red springs in the front and green in the rear with more than 3oz. added. If I added the sway bar it would give me more steering than I need and force me to reduce the spring rate in the front resulting in a reduction of rear forward bite on acceleration. I think this change would also impact the jumping perfomance adversly too. The stiffer front springs keep the nose now off jumps.

Does anyone have a manufaturer or part number for the shims needed on the rs gear diff without waiting to get them from ae. got a new one, thought i may have well fix it before getting it out. Thanks

[QUOTE=B.RAD;9927612]Does anyone have a manufaturer or part number for the shims needed on the rs gear diff without waiting to get them from ae. got a new one, thought i may have well fix it before getting it out. Thanks[/Qthe

the part # for the rebuild kit is 9829.. which you get the shims, o-rings and an extra set of sun gears.. hope this helps.