SC10 Thread
11-15-2011 | 09:44 PM
#8086
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 280
From: San Diego
Move the Battery Back ????????
I have a stock rtr brushless. Been racing for awhile now and wondering if I should move my battery back. I searched the forum but got mixed reviews. Anyone with a stock rtr have any input? Thanks
11-16-2011 | 12:25 AM
#8088
Add #2 piston shocks all around 2mm limiters in every shock.
Get the anti squat kit, add the thicker spacer, that will give forward bite..
Moving the battery back will improve rear bite. but nothing really much. It just doesn't nose as much..
11-16-2011 | 01:25 AM
#8089
Tech Regular
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 338
I put 60k oil into the gear diff and the thing just come alive.
Currently running everything stock rtr except for 60k diff oil, 200 front and 400 rear.
Currently running everything stock rtr except for 60k diff oil, 200 front and 400 rear.
11-16-2011 | 02:15 AM
#8090
Tech Champion
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,100
From: Brussels, Belgium
Pulse- are you using the ball diff or gear diff?
Ball diff
If you have the ball diff make sure to crank the slipper nut down. It won't hurt to fully compress the spring. Set the diff first then the slipper. It was frustrating for me at first but you really do need to crank the slipper nut down.
This is exactly what I was thinking coming from a Cougar SV. I didn't want to flatten the balls from tightening to hard that's why I was so gentle. For the setting of the diff I had kept the outdrives in my hand and try to make the gear move. I tightened the screw until it just started to slip.
Did you do the 'break in'? Yep One tire is down and the other off the ground and slowly give it some throttle. I count to about 30, then switch. Do this once or twice. Then tighten the diff a half turn. I tightened it down until the right wheel didn't move when holding the spur and the left wheel
If you slowly tighten the diff you will feel when it is about to max out. Carefully tighten it all the way then back off 1/4 turn. I know people will say not to do it this way. But do it this way once to learn.
This is actually what I did as it was still slipping with the slipper tightened all the way down. I could tighten the set screw of the diff many turns more until I reached the full tightening (I did it slowly of course), then I turned back a 1/4 of a turn. Rechecked with the wheels on, was still a little loose, retightened just a bit and here we are. Then I loosened the diff totally and started to tighten it until it slipped for a second. Now everything is fine, but I will have to do more testing on the track.
If you glazed your slipper pads just flip them over and use the other side.
I didn't glaze any side I checked them. The diff must have been very loose, they were like new. Still I used 500 sand paper again just to make sure they grip enough
If the slipper nut is to tight your diff will 'bark' (like a grinding sound). Obviously you know what to loose is. Hang in there and you will get it.
How far from 'fully tight' is your diff?
Now, I would say from 1/4 to & 1/8 turn which is very tight compared to my initial setting. I think I just need practice, it's hard to know just from holding a wheel and the spur what force to apply to make the other wheel move to set the diff. But it's working now, I trimmed a bit the throttle and brake curves with the castle link to have a bit more punch when hitting the trigger and everthing seems to work fine..in my appartement. Now I have an other SC10 to prepare, with no upgrades this time I just got it for very cheap and it has a gear diff this time
Ball diff
If you have the ball diff make sure to crank the slipper nut down. It won't hurt to fully compress the spring. Set the diff first then the slipper. It was frustrating for me at first but you really do need to crank the slipper nut down.
This is exactly what I was thinking coming from a Cougar SV. I didn't want to flatten the balls from tightening to hard that's why I was so gentle. For the setting of the diff I had kept the outdrives in my hand and try to make the gear move. I tightened the screw until it just started to slip.
Did you do the 'break in'? Yep One tire is down and the other off the ground and slowly give it some throttle. I count to about 30, then switch. Do this once or twice. Then tighten the diff a half turn. I tightened it down until the right wheel didn't move when holding the spur and the left wheel
If you slowly tighten the diff you will feel when it is about to max out. Carefully tighten it all the way then back off 1/4 turn. I know people will say not to do it this way. But do it this way once to learn.
This is actually what I did as it was still slipping with the slipper tightened all the way down. I could tighten the set screw of the diff many turns more until I reached the full tightening (I did it slowly of course), then I turned back a 1/4 of a turn. Rechecked with the wheels on, was still a little loose, retightened just a bit and here we are. Then I loosened the diff totally and started to tighten it until it slipped for a second. Now everything is fine, but I will have to do more testing on the track.
If you glazed your slipper pads just flip them over and use the other side.
I didn't glaze any side I checked them. The diff must have been very loose, they were like new. Still I used 500 sand paper again just to make sure they grip enough
If the slipper nut is to tight your diff will 'bark' (like a grinding sound). Obviously you know what to loose is. Hang in there and you will get it.
How far from 'fully tight' is your diff?
Now, I would say from 1/4 to & 1/8 turn which is very tight compared to my initial setting. I think I just need practice, it's hard to know just from holding a wheel and the spur what force to apply to make the other wheel move to set the diff. But it's working now, I trimmed a bit the throttle and brake curves with the castle link to have a bit more punch when hitting the trigger and everthing seems to work fine..in my appartement. Now I have an other SC10 to prepare, with no upgrades this time I just got it for very cheap and it has a gear diff this time
So to improve the RTR version for racing, I'll need:
- more weight
- anti squat kit
- #2 piston shocks all around 2mm limiters in every shock
Anything else? I'm driving on an indoor astro turf track (lot of grip).
Last edited by Pulse_; 11-16-2011 at 02:40 AM.
11-16-2011 | 03:35 AM
#8091
but yes follow the factory kit setup its on a.e now.
11-16-2011 | 05:19 AM
#8092
Tech Champion
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,100
From: Brussels, Belgium
I have the SC10 FT manual on my knees lol thanks man
11-16-2011 | 06:21 AM
#8093
Tech Adept
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 247
From: Kansas City Mo
What I hate about setting the ball diff is you aren't supposed to turn the screw all the way down. It's not good for the diff balls & rings. The 'sweet spot' is always somewhere between 1/4 and 1/8 turn back from fully tight. After doing it several times I'm feeling more confident.
Pulse- #2 pistons is a good starting point in the shocks. Remember the piston controls 'pack'. If you are bottoming out after a jump you will need a smaller piston hole. If it's a big jump you might just have to live with it bottoming out. Reasonable sized jumps are what I'm talking about.
Next start with a light oil 25wt and slowly go up. You want the tires to stick to the track and follow every little bump, dip, etc.. Keep going up until they don't look so smooth. You will find a range like 30-40 in back and 35-50 works in the front. It all depends on the track.
Use your camber links for cornering.
More anti-squat will make your truck go straight exiting a corner. If you are on a bumpy track you really don't want any anti-squat.
Are you feeling better about your truck now?
Pulse- #2 pistons is a good starting point in the shocks. Remember the piston controls 'pack'. If you are bottoming out after a jump you will need a smaller piston hole. If it's a big jump you might just have to live with it bottoming out. Reasonable sized jumps are what I'm talking about.
Next start with a light oil 25wt and slowly go up. You want the tires to stick to the track and follow every little bump, dip, etc.. Keep going up until they don't look so smooth. You will find a range like 30-40 in back and 35-50 works in the front. It all depends on the track.
Use your camber links for cornering.
More anti-squat will make your truck go straight exiting a corner. If you are on a bumpy track you really don't want any anti-squat.
Are you feeling better about your truck now?
11-16-2011 | 09:17 AM
#8094
Tech Champion
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 5,100
From: Brussels, Belgium
I'm feelin' good 
I'm all new to SCT sorry for my noob questions. After I tried the SC10 FT of my gf I had to get one and fell on this crazy deal so I jumped in. Can't wait to try it. The FT is done, I'm doing the shocks of my all stock SC10 right now. Guys use 40wt in the front on my track so I'll see how it does. I don't wanna be too thick neither.
Thanks a lot for your tips, great to have so many people helpin'
I'm all new to SCT sorry for my noob questions. After I tried the SC10 FT of my gf I had to get one and fell on this crazy deal so I jumped in. Can't wait to try it. The FT is done, I'm doing the shocks of my all stock SC10 right now. Guys use 40wt in the front on my track so I'll see how it does. I don't wanna be too thick neither.
Thanks a lot for your tips, great to have so many people helpin'
11-16-2011 | 12:23 PM
#8095
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 75
Hey guys,
I'm brand new to the RC Car arena, and I just purchased a used SC10 2wd from a buddy. I bought a charger for the existing Lipo battery that came with the car, but I was wondering what the largest battery pack I could fit in it without hurting anything, but maximizing power and run time, as well? Also, it has aftermarket a-arms on it, and I was wondering what people have done to add a rear swaybar to it seeing as there's no point to connect to the a-arms that I can tell.
Thanks in advance for the help,
Chris
I'm brand new to the RC Car arena, and I just purchased a used SC10 2wd from a buddy. I bought a charger for the existing Lipo battery that came with the car, but I was wondering what the largest battery pack I could fit in it without hurting anything, but maximizing power and run time, as well? Also, it has aftermarket a-arms on it, and I was wondering what people have done to add a rear swaybar to it seeing as there's no point to connect to the a-arms that I can tell.
Thanks in advance for the help,
Chris
11-16-2011 | 01:10 PM
#8096
Hey guys,
I'm brand new to the RC Car arena, and I just purchased a used SC10 2wd from a buddy. I bought a charger for the existing Lipo battery that came with the car, but I was wondering what the largest battery pack I could fit in it without hurting anything, but maximizing power and run time, as well? Also, it has aftermarket a-arms on it, and I was wondering what people have done to add a rear swaybar to it seeing as there's no point to connect to the a-arms that I can tell.
Thanks in advance for the help,
Chris
I'm brand new to the RC Car arena, and I just purchased a used SC10 2wd from a buddy. I bought a charger for the existing Lipo battery that came with the car, but I was wondering what the largest battery pack I could fit in it without hurting anything, but maximizing power and run time, as well? Also, it has aftermarket a-arms on it, and I was wondering what people have done to add a rear swaybar to it seeing as there's no point to connect to the a-arms that I can tell.
Thanks in advance for the help,
Chris
What size as in how many cells or size as in mah? If its cells (more cells more voltage) than its your ESC that will determine that. Some are rated for 1-2S, some 2-3S and some even higher. If you talking mah (run time per battery per say) than you shouldnt have any problem running as big as you can find. Might need to bend the strap a bit to get a really big one to fit. I have no problems fitting 5000mah packs in my car. Give me about 20-25mins run time with each fully charged.
I dont think you will see many people with a 2wd running rear sway bars. If anything, people mod the front RPM a arms and shock tower to add a rear sway bar to the front. Can check out teamsc10.com for some more tips and what not, can also find the video on how to do it. Not to terrible. Good info there on the sc10 too.
11-16-2011 | 01:28 PM
#8097
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 75
What size as in how many cells or size as in mah? If its cells (more cells more voltage) than its your ESC that will determine that. Some are rated for 1-2S, some 2-3S and some even higher. If you talking mah (run time per battery per say) than you shouldnt have any problem running as big as you can find. Might need to bend the strap a bit to get a really big one to fit. I have no problems fitting 5000mah packs in my car. Give me about 20-25mins run time with each fully charged.
I dont think you will see many people with a 2wd running rear sway bars. If anything, people mod the front RPM a arms and shock tower to add a rear sway bar to the front. Can check out teamsc10.com for some more tips and what not, can also find the video on how to do it. Not to terrible. Good info there on the sc10 too.
I dont think you will see many people with a 2wd running rear sway bars. If anything, people mod the front RPM a arms and shock tower to add a rear sway bar to the front. Can check out teamsc10.com for some more tips and what not, can also find the video on how to do it. Not to terrible. Good info there on the sc10 too.
Chris
11-16-2011 | 01:39 PM
#8098
I'm referring to the physical size of the battery, how many cells I can fit, the c ratings, and the mah rating, as well. I've got a 7.4V 2S Lipo rated at 5000mah and 25c, and I'm wondering if I can run a 11.1V rated a lot higher or even a higher rated 7.4V rated as high as 50c and 8000mah, for example? Thanks,
Chris
Chris
11-16-2011 | 01:39 PM
#8099
I'm referring to the physical size of the battery, how many cells I can fit, the c ratings, and the mah rating, as well. I've got a 7.4V 2S Lipo rated at 5000mah and 25c, and I'm wondering if I can run a 11.1V rated a lot higher or even a higher rated 7.4V rated as high as 50c and 8000mah, for example? Thanks,
Chris
Chris
11-16-2011 | 01:41 PM
#8100
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 75
Thanks guys...I may just stick with what I've got I suppose. Any detriment with get a 5000mah 7.4V 2s that's rated at 50c instead of the 25c to give it more punch?
Chris
Chris