So is this new hex on the b4.1 standard???

The tall line is zero yes. My endbell is cranked a notch past all the notches. There is room to go but I find it doesn't help any further than I'm already at.
On a medium size track running stock I'd say no. Even on a large track running stock it's borderline. If running mod it's a good buy but not necessary by any means.
No it's an upgrade. For some!

do all those parts listed for the hex wheels do the same for the t4.1?

I will try my question another way. lol Could anyone give me the length's of ball studs on the B4.1? Im trying to place an order today for Lunsfords so any help is appreciated. Thanks, G

certainly!, .200 for the one that attaches to the servo horn and .300 for the others.

I found that just cranking the nut down and making sure the pin is centered has stopped that from happening for me.

Aren't all you hex converters going to lose the use of a bunch if your wheels/tires? That's the biggest factor keeping me from converting.

Thanks! It seems backwards, but does an increase in motor timing make the motor more responsive on the low end too?

that's why the only thing i've converted so far are the rears of my SC10. i have way too many front sc10 and B4 tires that will be rendered useless if i convert.

Anyone have this issue when going double tripple and as the car lives the face the car tends to (BUCK) as in like I have to panic REV TO GET IT TO DROP .

RUNNING 30wt #2's 2 .30 limiters front / rear 30wt #2's 2 .30 limiters . thanks

has anyone tried any mods for mounting other bodies? I modified the Jato body in my avatar so the shock towers fit and i can use the stock mounts. I just got an hpi f150 body and was thinking of rigging traxxas mounts or somthing to the towers so i can easily mount the f150 body. Any suggestions or ideas?

T4bongman,
Thank you for the info. Your signature says Titanium and Aluminum everywhere. Do you recall what the parts numbers were of the Lunsford ball studs you used? Thanks again.

LIES!!! not "everything" haha thank you for pointing that out as i do not have Lunsford ball studs only hinge pins and axles. altering my sig now... i couldnt find a part number when searching the Lunsford site

however....
these look similar but measurements would be needed. I would send lunsford an e-mail or call them

http://www.lunsfordracing.com/mm5/me...Category_Code=

CHEERS!

I may have missed it, but what is the benefit of swapping to hexes on the B4.1? I've not had a single issue with stripping a wheel (just pay attention when they go on) and on the front the inline axles (with the screw instead of the nut) do just fine.


On another note...

A little while back I posted about trying to get my buggy to handle a rhythm section better without giving up anything else and I found a solution. It was suggested that I check for air in the shocks, and sure enough - my LR shock had air in it. I bled all of the shocks again for good measure (didn't change fluid) and it is working much better now. Thanks for the help, guys!

Well, you will always always have air in the shocks. The key is to keep the same amount in each side.

CRAP! lol I tried calling and sent an e-mail so I will let you know what i find out.

If I buy this stuff
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Body-Set-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ock-Body-Set-2
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ck-Rebuild-Kit
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Green-SlimeCan
Can I combine them with the rtr shock shafts and use them on my b4.1?