ok so after asking. and looking at another buggy with Hex here are he part #'s you need for front and rear

Front
SC10RS steering blocks #9880
B4 hex axles #7496
HEX adapters #3973 ( only fit the front)
Ball stud locking nuts for the blocks. #4449. SC10RS and SC10 ones are different


Rear
Hex-JConcepts Rear Hex Adaptor 12mm B4.1/B44.1 Blue #2091

New 12mm hex rims.

I hope that helps some of you with wanted to run hex.
AE makes front Hex wheels but I have not seen ones for the rear.
DE Racing makes white, yellow and black that fit. for 7 bucks a pair

Sounds similar to what I have (MMP & 5700 kV, I know, overkill ). I'm currently running on a super tight indoor track with 18/84. When I've run outside on our med/large track I run 21/84 or so. I normally would gear to motor temp but the indoor track doesn't require much throttle.

Is a 6.0 FDR too aggressive a start for unboosted 17.5 gearing? I'll be running a 69 tooth spur, so a 29 will give me 6.18 and 30 would give me 5.98.

I haven't run the car yet, but should I gear more towards a 6.5 or 7 FDR?

Im hoping someone on here has purchased some of the Lunsford ballstuds for the B4.1. Which ones does a guy need? I know theres a couple of different sizes on the car but i havent a clue as to what the lengths are. Also whats the difference with the silver and black studs?

Finallydoes anyone run a FTW body? I painted one up and really liked it but I was curious to find out if the XL fits the +8mm chassis properly. Whats the popular +8mm body? Jconcepts or the Bulldog? Thanks

We're talking no timing correct? If so:

5.85 for 125 foot straight with a ton of motor timing

6.5 for 70' straight with zero motor timing

Both always run cool 140- Tekin RS / Orion 2010 17.5

That's perfect. I'll be running the same ESC and motor. Thanks!

Popular combo... same here.

Wheelman, what do you consider a lot of motor timing? And is the big notch on the timing considered zero? I don't typically run blinky so I'm more familiar with the rs boost features than the motor.

Is this chassis really worth getting? I race on a indoor clay, mid size, med. bite track. i'd hate to get the chassis swap everything over just to be like " Yah I guess its a little more stable" i'm interested in doing the swap just wondering what you can really expect to gain.. thanks in advance

What is the hexs for? ???? What's wrong with the pin in the axle????

The new chassis is a lot better. More stable and corners a lot better. Basically you can drive the car more aggressively. It's worth getting.

i felt a big difference when i installed mine. but then again i was running a totally different setup when i had the standard chassis on.

definitely worth getting. my .02

So I'm building my T4.1 and I'm looking at the gearing chart in the manual which has me a bit confused. The manual suggests a FDR of 6.50:1 for a 17.5 brushless. How do they get 6.50 with 87/20 and 2.6 for the trans? My math says it more like 11.31 FDR.

What FDR should I be aiming for with a 17.5? The track(s) I will be running on are small indoor, with about 50ft straights max. I will be running a Hobbywing Extreme Stock ESC with the 17.5 motor. Also if anyone has any suggestions on settings for turbo and boost that would be great.

Thanks

The 3973 look too thick for front only. But it's hard to tell from online pics. Got any mesurements please?

ASC7947 plastic hexes fit also. They are not clamping though. There are two thick and two thin hexes. They are $4.59 through Amainhobbies.

The problem is that with the axle pin set up there is a tendency of the axle to spin in the wheel causing the wheel to "strip" out. After having to throw away a new set of tires/wheels it was a must have upgrade for me