SC10 4x4 Thread
If the surface is high bite, and smooth without the pin might be better.
I had good luck running HD pads inside and outside, standard pad in w/ the original, not imitation Mac The Knife slipper basket and no pin. IMO running three HD pads and pinning the front shaft is my preferred setup because it's easier on the tracks I run on.
Cameron obviously hauls a** so it's hard for me to argue with him. I'd like to think that if we raced on each others' tracks we'd come to the same conclusion.
I think it depends on what surface you are running on. If you are on a low bite dry slick or blown out, fluffy loam, or rough track with lots of bumps out of the corners, I think the pin is better.
If the surface is high bite, and smooth without the pin might be better.
I had good luck running HD pads inside and outside, standard pad in w/ the original, not imitation Mac The Knife slipper basket and no pin. IMO running three HD pads and pinning the front shaft is my preferred setup because it's easier on the tracks I run on.
Cameron obviously hauls a** so it's hard for me to argue with him. I'd like to think that if we raced on each others' tracks we'd come to the same conclusion.
If the surface is high bite, and smooth without the pin might be better.
I had good luck running HD pads inside and outside, standard pad in w/ the original, not imitation Mac The Knife slipper basket and no pin. IMO running three HD pads and pinning the front shaft is my preferred setup because it's easier on the tracks I run on.
Cameron obviously hauls a** so it's hard for me to argue with him. I'd like to think that if we raced on each others' tracks we'd come to the same conclusion.
PRCR and whatnot. a 'true' short course. I could easily believe the slipper reigns. I break my back end out to get around the corners pinned. That isn't going to cut it on a indoor sticky deal.
uh... wait. That makes no sense. How are you getting dirt in the Belt tunnel? Are you running the Basket with the spur cover chopped off?
Also: Those nearly 8th Scale outdoor tracks that are high speed tracks, the Pin is I think beyond superior to the slipper. There is 'no' way to keep up with the losi's in that situation.
PRCR and whatnot. a 'true' short course. I could easily believe the slipper reigns. I break my back end out to get around the corners pinned. That isn't going to cut it on a indoor sticky deal.
PRCR and whatnot. a 'true' short course. I could easily believe the slipper reigns. I break my back end out to get around the corners pinned. That isn't going to cut it on a indoor sticky deal.
There is no way dirt should be getting in the spur gear enough that you have to stop running. Are you running the belt covers?
its probably coming in through the motor plate. if you have a close look at it with the gear cover off, u will see that the motor dosent fully cover up the holes. 1 way to fix this is to set your mesh, then put some tape over the holes, preventing dirt from comming in.
This truck is STUPID about how different it is per driver. anyone can drive a Losi, any style driving. We have to tune more than any other truck i've ever ran (and that's not saying alot) for 'ourselves'. I make the truck look good. Offer to let someone drive it and they scowl at it. It's unforgiving imo. But this isn't a bad thing imho.
This truck is STUPID about how different it is per driver. anyone can drive a Losi, any style driving. We have to tune more than any other truck i've ever ran (and that's not saying alot) for 'ourselves'. I make the truck look good. Offer to let someone drive it and they scowl at it. It's unforgiving imo. But this isn't a bad thing imho.
Okay Guys. I need Help. This is starting to piss me off.
1:
- Truck's dialed. You all know i've gone through 2 idlers so far.
- Just installed a brand new belt (old one lasted 6 months)
- clicker Teeth are spanking sharp and new looking, and locked out. (full 4x4)
- Set to stock tension
- 550 castle 1415, no basket, pinned Slipper
I, for God's sake... Cannot find this clicking noise. I know some have asked about it... but It's not the belt skipping. I *idiot* torqued down the belt just to prove to myself that the belt wasn't skipping and of course stretched the belt out pre-maturely. It's more of a plasticky click from what I 'think' is coming from the rear.
It sounds EXACTLY like the belt skipping but it's under acceleration until I get to speed and it stops. Sounds like it's coming from the rear gearbox. But I have it open and everything's clean and nice. I'm pulling my hair out. I stopped driving on a BEAUTIFUL sunday because it was upsetting me. No loss of power, nothing, just a blech clicking.
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2:
My Diffs. All i've ever read (if I missed it, I apologize) was your O-rings are causing the floppy drives. Well mine look great and My drives are getting "BAD" wobble now. I was ignoring it and not worrying but now it's getting drastic wobble.

They look fine. Is it the Brass inner bushing that's the real problem? Thanks for the help as always guys.
1:
- Truck's dialed. You all know i've gone through 2 idlers so far.
- Just installed a brand new belt (old one lasted 6 months)
- clicker Teeth are spanking sharp and new looking, and locked out. (full 4x4)
- Set to stock tension
- 550 castle 1415, no basket, pinned Slipper
I, for God's sake... Cannot find this clicking noise. I know some have asked about it... but It's not the belt skipping. I *idiot* torqued down the belt just to prove to myself that the belt wasn't skipping and of course stretched the belt out pre-maturely. It's more of a plasticky click from what I 'think' is coming from the rear.
It sounds EXACTLY like the belt skipping but it's under acceleration until I get to speed and it stops. Sounds like it's coming from the rear gearbox. But I have it open and everything's clean and nice. I'm pulling my hair out. I stopped driving on a BEAUTIFUL sunday because it was upsetting me. No loss of power, nothing, just a blech clicking.
------------------------------------------------
2:
My Diffs. All i've ever read (if I missed it, I apologize) was your O-rings are causing the floppy drives. Well mine look great and My drives are getting "BAD" wobble now. I was ignoring it and not worrying but now it's getting drastic wobble.

They look fine. Is it the Brass inner bushing that's the real problem? Thanks for the help as always guys.
Okay Guys. I need Help. This is starting to piss me off.
1:
- Truck's dialed. You all know i've gone through 2 idlers so far.
- Just installed a brand new belt (old one lasted 6 months)
- clicker Teeth are spanking sharp and new looking, and locked out. (full 4x4)
- Set to stock tension
- 550 castle 1415, no basket, pinned Slipper
I, for God's sake... Cannot find this clicking noise. I know some have asked about it... but It's not the belt skipping. I *idiot* torqued down the belt just to prove to myself that the belt wasn't skipping and of course stretched the belt out pre-maturely. It's more of a plasticky click from what I 'think' is coming from the rear.
It sounds EXACTLY like the belt skipping but it's under acceleration until I get to speed and it stops. Sounds like it's coming from the rear gearbox. But I have it open and everything's clean and nice. I'm pulling my hair out. I stopped driving on a BEAUTIFUL sunday because it was upsetting me. No loss of power, nothing, just a blech clicking.
------------------------------------------------
2:
My Diffs. All i've ever read (if I missed it, I apologize) was your O-rings are causing the floppy drives. Well mine look great and My drives are getting "BAD" wobble now. I was ignoring it and not worrying but now it's getting drastic wobble.

They look fine. Is it the Brass inner bushing that's the real problem? Thanks for the help as always guys.
1:
- Truck's dialed. You all know i've gone through 2 idlers so far.
- Just installed a brand new belt (old one lasted 6 months)
- clicker Teeth are spanking sharp and new looking, and locked out. (full 4x4)
- Set to stock tension
- 550 castle 1415, no basket, pinned Slipper
I, for God's sake... Cannot find this clicking noise. I know some have asked about it... but It's not the belt skipping. I *idiot* torqued down the belt just to prove to myself that the belt wasn't skipping and of course stretched the belt out pre-maturely. It's more of a plasticky click from what I 'think' is coming from the rear.
It sounds EXACTLY like the belt skipping but it's under acceleration until I get to speed and it stops. Sounds like it's coming from the rear gearbox. But I have it open and everything's clean and nice. I'm pulling my hair out. I stopped driving on a BEAUTIFUL sunday because it was upsetting me. No loss of power, nothing, just a blech clicking.
------------------------------------------------
2:
My Diffs. All i've ever read (if I missed it, I apologize) was your O-rings are causing the floppy drives. Well mine look great and My drives are getting "BAD" wobble now. I was ignoring it and not worrying but now it's getting drastic wobble.

They look fine. Is it the Brass inner bushing that's the real problem? Thanks for the help as always guys.
the bushings are the culprit, they need to be made of steel instead of soft bronze, the oring is just a seal.
i had a similar sound and it did it until it broke the belt in half!! after inspection the rear pulley was getting worn, you really couldnt tell until i took it off.
the bushings are the culprit, they need to be made of steel instead of soft bronze, the oring is just a seal.
the bushings are the culprit, they need to be made of steel instead of soft bronze, the oring is just a seal.
Yeah. The puley looks fine... I guess? Gah....



5Likes
Kind of feels better at first but was hard for me to be consistant with lap times wise.
I am faster around PRCR with the slipper and the 19th over the pin mod set up.