They make them with out the +3 offset. That's what he is using.

a little race report from the RCpro finals here in porter TX: i have to be honest in that i just cant get the truck to "act" right, i am about 1.5 seconds off of the pace right now and just cant seem to get a good balance. quickest truck out here right now is Lutz's durango ( he is running laptimes quicker than 99% of pro Ebuggy!!) behind him is a slew of Losi's and i have the quickest SC10. track is hardpack clay, Very smooth and flosing track. i have changed and tried EVERY combo on the planet, even threw in stock pistons (thats a far stretch for me!!) best tire so far has been holeshot 2.0's. it just seems that no matter what i do it is just too "edgy" to drive fast and this edgy-ness stems from the front, i cannot get the truck to even get close to pushing. I think that if i can get some push then i can dial some steering back in to make it comfortable. i dont like running with lower EPA because of the turning radius.
Current setup:
Front
yellow springs
V1 RCshox pistons 1.1/1.2 35wt
5mm RC shims
outer arms/mid tower
24mm ride height
7k dif fluid

Rear
blue springs
1.1/1.2 pistons 25wt
2mm RC shims
outer arms /mid tower
24mm ride height
4k dif fluid

overdrive front pulley
3-3 rear toe block
pinned
added a pretty good amount of weight to the chassis sides (around 120g)
saddlepack




i have some good ideas where to go next but since there is no more practice i will have to experiment next week. I am not giving up especially since i have seen with my own eyes the dominance of the durango but i feel like there is still a missing element to this truck. i have two more qualifiers today and the finals start tomorrow , hopefully i can get a good enough run this morning to squeak into the A main!

No, they don't make them without the +3. Both the sc10 2wd and 4wd have the same track width and are 6mm narrower than the roar max.

http://www.jconcepts.net/store/index...roducts_id=504

if you want your truck to push i would try this setup
1 bladders all the way around use 1.1 pistons with 30 wt ae fluid front and 25 rear rebound 50% blue springs all the way around center holes front and rear shock towers and outer holes on front and rear arms

shim 2mm on outer steering knuckle
shim under front camber link 5mm and rear 4mm
-1 camber all the way around
over drive pulley 19 tooth
24 mm front and 23mm rear ride height
yellow sway bar front blue rear
diff front 10k rear 7k

it wont hurt to try it that should develop a push good luck

Originally Posted by Vegatron75
I was able to get through mine w/ a hand drill and a vise. I must have got and relatively soft one. I did drill a pilot hole. The aluminun part is soft, if it won't go through the shaft pretty easily, then stop and take it somewhere.

It ain't got to be pretty, it's hidden..... Just remember to loosen your slipper way up, if you don't your idler gear will most likely be toasted.

Who said anything about the motor? or metal shavings? What the heck are you talking about?

Mantis,

Throw a shim or two on the steering knuckle to remove some of the toe in that happens with bump steer. That should help with mid corner push anyways...

thanx guys i will throw some of that in the mix for the second round today. i have already basically given up on trying to do anything less than just finishing the race clean. if its fast than so be it!

You will probably need to double shim the side gears.

Keith.

I put the Ryans setup on Jason's truck and it pushed like a dumptruck.

Keith.

ok ive just tryt my sc10 4x4 for the 1 time on the parking lot and it feels great i notist thqat it dint seam to acc. as fast ore hard like my jammin / nexx sc10 did. hmmm maybe i need to tighten my slipper abit more.
this is my 1 truck whit a slipper so its pretty new to me.

sry for spelling errors but im dyslexic

Mantis, you might try the 3-2 rear toe block also. Lot of fast guys there, wish I could have made it. Also, on the tires. Holeshots or even Bowties have always been good there on fresh track after rebuild. As that track dries and gets grooved in, typically something like a Suburb or Barcode, etc. has been really good there in 1/8. Should work for SC also. Check with JB and see what he's running in buggy. Good luck to you and Sym, go whup that Losi and Rango arse.

I'm glad that Krio responded before me. On the Jconcepts site they state that the Hazard wheels work for SC10, SC10 4x4 and SCTE and XXX-SCT. All have to have the 12mm hex so the SC10 requires a conversion.

I have these on both of my SC10s, 2wd and 4wd, and the track width matches. It is stated by JC that this makes the SC10s meet the max ROAR limit of 296mm. The 6mm width change gets you there.

tried the 3-2 as that is what i normally run, truck would get squirrely under acceleration 3-3 stopped that! i have some rebars but the truck traction rolls badly with them, 2nd qual i rolled at least five times....

you might want to check that closer because the sc10 2wd with the 12mm hex and the standard sc10 4x4 wheel it is the same track width as the sc10 4x4 with hazard wheels and with hazard wheels on the sc10 2wd it is 6mm wider then the sc10 4x4 we have a sc10 2wd

so if the sc10 4x4 is at max track width using the hazard wheels you are over on the sc10 2wd

however i run 2wd kyosho scr i thought about using the hazard wheels on it they might work pretty good on it and be within limits for track width just my observation and measurements.

Marcus W. try making the rear camber link longest and make it parallel to the ground, that will tighten up the truck.
Paul R.