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Old 11-02-2011 | 07:27 PM
  #10021  
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Originally Posted by kghills
Received the chassis brace from Billy and installed it last night. It is hard to believe the difference. Tried the push on the shock towers with and without the brace while the belt covers were removed. Wow. I cannot help but think the setup for the truck with the brace will need to be drastically different compared to without it.

Keith.
Yup. That's why I'm makin' them for guys.

Today, I got someone into a sc10 4x4 instead of a Losi after driving mine.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 07:36 PM
  #10022  
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Originally Posted by sugs
16/62 might be a little much unless your track is WIDE open and fast. I'm geared 18-20/93 most times on high traction indoor track. Running the MM.
Ok I'll do 19/93. What pitch gears should I be running with this motor? Also can you fit this gearing? That's a lot of teeth and it seems like I barely fit my current gearing.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 07:44 PM
  #10023  
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4
Ok I'll do 19/93. What pitch gears should I be running with this motor? Also can you fit this gearing? That's a lot of teeth and it seems like I barely fit my current gearing.
that would be 48 pitch
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Old 11-02-2011 | 07:51 PM
  #10024  
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Ok thanks,
Dan
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:03 PM
  #10025  
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Originally Posted by jsamarin
sweet, thanks dude. Can anyone out there use the power the 4600 puts down in these trucks?
I run on a very fast and open 1/8 scale track and after a 10 min main with 1-2 mins of practice, I put about 5000 back into my reedy 5500 60c 2s lipos. Hope this answers your question.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:05 PM
  #10026  
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Originally Posted by Krio
Start with the 20. The 19 works better on sweeping or loamy tracks, but most people run the 20.
I run the 19t pulley in the front and 20 rear on a open and fast 1/8 scale track.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:18 PM
  #10027  
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Originally Posted by ShortCourseOnly
I know there is a video on the AE site that goes through the details. I follow that proceedure. It is actually simple:

1) Fill the shocks with oil
2) Use the seal provided with your kit and install it in the shock cap
3) Complete the fill to just over full on the shock body.
4) With the bleed screws removed, install the cap on the shock body
5) Now slowly compress the shock completely. Shock oil should leak out of the bleed hole. Maintain the shock compressed
6) With the shock compressed, install the bleed screw with seal.
7) Actuate the shock to check for air and ensure there is no rebound.
8) Compress the shock completely and remove the bleeder screw and then re-install the bleeder screw and repeat step 7.

This is what I do and it works great.
I added the step 8 in bold lettering. I always do this to my shocks. helps keep them more consistent.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 08:22 PM
  #10028  
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Originally Posted by lodhammerdin
I added the step 8 in bold lettering. I always do this to my shocks. helps keep them more consistent.
Agreed.
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Old 11-02-2011 | 11:37 PM
  #10029  
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Originally Posted by SS LS1
Last two photos of the build. I used a little red automotive touch up paint to put a mark on the shock collars, makes it easier to count the number of turns when setting ride height.
Truck looks great SS! I used a dremel to make a silver line in my grey STRC shock collars, worked great
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Old 11-03-2011 | 04:11 AM
  #10030  
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Originally Posted by SS LS1
Well the truck is finally completed and ready for the track, just have to finish setting up the RX8 with the laptop. Ran the truck (carefully) on the living room to center the steering and just had to punch the throttle at least once. The truck just about flippped over backwards, looks like the MTK basket is working already.

Thanks to all the members here for the mod ideas, posting photos of your trucks and inspiration to assemble a balanced setup that should work well on the track. I tried to route all wires as cleanly as possible, I'm happy with the final results. Credit goes to Furtado who is responsible for the saddle pack layout.

As a payback here are some photos of the final assembly to inspire others.

SS did you have to modify the rx8 to fit it under the belt??? I am doing the same conversion with a rx8 and it didnt seem like it was going to fit without some force. Any input would be great..
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Old 11-03-2011 | 04:15 AM
  #10031  
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Is anybody installing limiters in their shocks to adjust the up travel?? i will be running my truck on a indoor high bite carpet track. What would you guys recommend as a starting point???
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Old 11-03-2011 | 04:34 AM
  #10032  
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Originally Posted by Potoczak
Is anybody installing limiters in their shocks to adjust the up travel?? i will be running my truck on a indoor high bite carpet track. What would you guys recommend as a starting point???
Not sure on a carpet setup, but limiters are being installed to prevent the CVA shafts from binding on the diff out-drives.
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Old 11-03-2011 | 04:46 AM
  #10033  
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Can someone post some pics of how there shimming the camber links to reduce chassis roll, and were do u get the shims at???
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Old 11-03-2011 | 05:46 AM
  #10034  
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Default New indoor track in waldorf, maryland

to all. we will be starting construction of an indoor offroad "dirt" track in waldorf maryland. Yes i said dirt, not that funny carpet stuff. anyone interested in getting involved or coming out to race, please contact me.

[email protected]
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Old 11-03-2011 | 05:50 AM
  #10035  
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Originally Posted by D-A-N-4-4
Ok I'll do 19/93. What pitch gears should I be running with this motor? Also can you fit this gearing? That's a lot of teeth and it seems like I barely fit my current gearing.
Don't do that! 48 pitch gears will STRIP using that 1410 motor your talking about getting. You were on the right track with the 62 spur...just dial it back to 15 teeth on the pinion and you'll be in the 'sweet spot'.

Vegatron has been running the 1410 (3800kv) motor w/MMP since the truck came out and he wins ALL THE TIME. Trust me, his truck is just as fast as anybody else's truck at our track. It's a small-ish (78x50) tight indoor, smooth high-traction track. With 15/62 I can clear ANY jump on the track just by 'blipping' the throttle with literally NO run-up. Plenty of grunt and I haven't stripped a single spur since getting my 1410/MMP.

I DID however strip 2 48-pitch spurs with several different 540 motors AND dealt with major HEAT problems when I was trying (unsuccessully) to run various small can motors. Trust me, you DO NOT want to go 48-pitch with the 1410! Way too much GRUNT (torque) for that.

For pinions just get Traxxas/Slash pinions from your LHS. They are 32-pitch, and cheap.
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