2000 to 3000 depending on the track. That number includes at least 1 full minute of warmup laps.

I'll get 12 to 15 mins straight with a 5000 mah Lipo.

.

Hi,

I'm a newb with belts. I just got my sc10 4x4 roller and I tore the front end apart, requiring me to pull the belt off. I got my servo in and now I went to torque down the clicker so theres 3 mm of bolt sticking out after the nut. When i do this its hard to turn the wheels and it's a little notchy. What did I do wrong? When the clicker is in "click" mode it moves freely and smooth. Is it my belt tension (it looks fine to me) or something else me rear slipper is locked down and the spur and belt are still turning so it's not my clutch. Any help would be very appreciated!

Thanks,
Dan

Thanks for the info Krio!

Thanks for the input Cameron! One of the tekin/losi guys at our track runs the 4600 too...I'm guessing its probably the most popular choice.

sweet, thanks dude. Can anyone out there use the power the 4600 puts down in these trucks?

DAN

The front belt drive pulley is two pieces that must be indexed properly before they will snap together completely with no gaps. There is a square drive on the toothed pulley and a mating square pocket on the pulley flange that absolutely must mesh together otherwise when you tighten the clicker nut completely the front assembly binds. When you loosen the clicker nut the assembly spins free but the pulley its not centered on the belt driveline.

Remove the belt cover and I bet you see a gap between the pulley and the left pulley flange. Fix this and all should be smooth again.

Which clicker gear for front. 19 or 20?

Start with the 20. The 19 works better on sweeping or loamy tracks, but most people run the 20.

I would think you are having to turn the motor with the clicker disengaged. And if you are using a 4 pole motor. they feel kinda notchy. Atleast my 1410 does.

Ok guys I pulled the clicker apart AGAIN (third time) and relized it was my bad, I switched those 3 long screws around and i put the longer one where it wasn't supposed to be and it was rubbing on the back of the flange deal things majiger. So I fixed that up and it's smooth! Getting my new castle 1410 hoplefully on Saturday. So maybe bring it to the track!!

I put a servo from my rc8be in it for the off season. Hs7955tg so I have a little bit of overkill on steering. I'm going to run the 1410 3800 on either a MM or a MMM. I'm going to start with 16/ 62? Anyway what do you guys think of this setup? Running on 2s.

I run my 1410 with 14/62 and seems to have everything I need.

Well the truck is finally completed and ready for the track, just have to finish setting up the RX8 with the laptop. Ran the truck (carefully) on the living room to center the steering and just had to punch the throttle at least once. The truck just about flippped over backwards, looks like the MTK basket is working already.

Thanks to all the members here for the mod ideas, posting photos of your trucks and inspiration to assemble a balanced setup that should work well on the track. I tried to route all wires as cleanly as possible, I'm happy with the final results. Credit goes to Furtado who is responsible for the saddle pack layout.

As a payback here are some photos of the final assembly to inspire others.

Last two photos of the build. I used a little red automotive touch up paint to put a mark on the shock collars, makes it easier to count the number of turns when setting ride height.

16/62 might be a little much unless your track is WIDE open and fast. I'm geared 18-20/93 most times on high traction indoor track. Running the MM.