5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-05-2011, 08:02 AM
kinda cool pic! i thought anyway1
11-05-2011, 08:09 AM
I just use a custom-made-from-scrap fiberglass pad.
11-05-2011, 08:30 AM
http://www.fastlapproducts.net/
Billy's stuff is legit, his chassis brace and the clutch basket set up are must have's for the SC10 4x4. The basket made a HUGE difference in getting power to the ground. Don't hesitate to buy from him.
Billy's stuff is legit, his chassis brace and the clutch basket set up are must have's for the SC10 4x4. The basket made a HUGE difference in getting power to the ground. Don't hesitate to buy from him.
I am getting idle gears, Diff cases, and a belt for spares. I already have the RPM arms which you may want to consider. I want to get the FT shocks, Turnbuckles, and aluminum screws. I also plan to build a chassis brace using my RC8 chassis brace for parts. I just need a tube and some threaded rod.
11-05-2011, 09:00 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (8)
Is it the front or rear idler gear that is failing with the pinned mod?
11-05-2011, 09:02 AM
Another source for carbon fiber tube are arrow shafts from an archery shop. I plan on digging around in my arrow making tool box for the aluminum inserts. i think they take a 5-32 thread.
11-05-2011, 09:03 AM
11-05-2011, 09:17 AM
I made a chassis brace out of an aluminum arrow shaft, I just need to mount it now.
11-05-2011, 09:18 AM
11-05-2011, 09:34 AM
No, Just a silver one. $.97 at dicks sporting goods. I found a pretty simple way to attach it. I drilled holes in the ends and used body clips to attach it to the under-body mount. Not as sturdy as a screw but its easily removable and works.
11-05-2011, 09:35 AM
That's the result of mine too. I use regular pads and have done that to two idlers. Bottom line is you need to get the metal ones, and metal diff. But: Try regular pads first obviously before you spend 60 bucks on gears.
I use the spacer mod with HD pads and all I can say is "bingo".
I use the spacer mod with HD pads and all I can say is "bingo".
11-05-2011, 10:11 AM
you guys are all running your slipper units way to tight they have to slip or you are going to keep going through idler gears . i have MTK basket pinned mod and braced have gone through 10 batteries and not one issue . the truck is so quite you can hardly hear it until it decelerates . this is one of the first trucks in Michigan have not broken a thing on it . it will be at the Michigan state off road champs at proving grounds raceway in grand rapids next weekend
Keith.
11-05-2011, 10:23 AM
11-05-2011, 10:24 AM
idle gear
I am with fast 64,
I have the pin, mtk basket , 3 garodisks , running havok pro sc with ballistic 4.5 on default settings , geared 16 /62, braced and run indoors on high bite med to large almost 1/8 style and another techy smaller 1/10 smaller tracks and have put well over 10 packs through the truck with this set up.
I am a crappy driver that does not have the best trained throttle finger yet and come down with some heavy throttle after doing mid air corrections frequently and hold the throttle open over some of the rougher terrain. So the truck is seeing the abuseand missuse.
Not a issue.
I have the slipper set to where i need to use locktite to keep nut in place. I first started real loose to where it slightly glazed the g discs as I was afraid to smoke the idle gear as I have read. It worked ok , but at the smaller track I didnt have the pucnch to get the triple out of the 180 turn. so cleaned up pads and tightened up a bit and it got better, a little tighter and it is perfect now. Yes it still pulls the front wheels off ever so slightly when i nail it out of the corner after about 4ft of slight slip. Can nail the triple out of the 180 turn the entire pack , no glazing of g disc , and not a single issue or noise from gearbox after 10+ packs .
call me lucky I guess
For the folks having issues with the stock shocks take a look at the caps at the bottom of the shock that seals up the cartridge. I had lots of friction from shaft rubbing them. I used a step drill bitt and opened the holes up and it made a huge difference, I tried running the rc8b o rings and they sucked , the sucked in air during piston travel , and leaked out in less than a pack runnig. I also had leakage issues and blow by on some of the flatter landings from the larger track when i ran a single x seal , so now runnig 2 x seals that had the insides cleaned up a bit. I took down the inner ridge a bit with a round file i had ,polished the stock shafts , lots of the green slime. The shocks are now as smooth as my losi big bores from my 8ight , and dont leak a drop after 2 track days.
I have the pin, mtk basket , 3 garodisks , running havok pro sc with ballistic 4.5 on default settings , geared 16 /62, braced and run indoors on high bite med to large almost 1/8 style and another techy smaller 1/10 smaller tracks and have put well over 10 packs through the truck with this set up.
I am a crappy driver that does not have the best trained throttle finger yet and come down with some heavy throttle after doing mid air corrections frequently and hold the throttle open over some of the rougher terrain. So the truck is seeing the abuseand missuse.
Not a issue.
I have the slipper set to where i need to use locktite to keep nut in place. I first started real loose to where it slightly glazed the g discs as I was afraid to smoke the idle gear as I have read. It worked ok , but at the smaller track I didnt have the pucnch to get the triple out of the 180 turn. so cleaned up pads and tightened up a bit and it got better, a little tighter and it is perfect now. Yes it still pulls the front wheels off ever so slightly when i nail it out of the corner after about 4ft of slight slip. Can nail the triple out of the 180 turn the entire pack , no glazing of g disc , and not a single issue or noise from gearbox after 10+ packs .
call me lucky I guess
For the folks having issues with the stock shocks take a look at the caps at the bottom of the shock that seals up the cartridge. I had lots of friction from shaft rubbing them. I used a step drill bitt and opened the holes up and it made a huge difference, I tried running the rc8b o rings and they sucked , the sucked in air during piston travel , and leaked out in less than a pack runnig. I also had leakage issues and blow by on some of the flatter landings from the larger track when i ran a single x seal , so now runnig 2 x seals that had the insides cleaned up a bit. I took down the inner ridge a bit with a round file i had ,polished the stock shafts , lots of the green slime. The shocks are now as smooth as my losi big bores from my 8ight , and dont leak a drop after 2 track days.
11-05-2011, 10:38 AM
after 1 run
i can only say daaaaaammmmmm 
i stil smile GGGG
this truck is so good and is just in a nother leag then my nexx was its great.
just 1 thing remeber to put on the right servo horn
mann im a noob.
but other then that it was great.
my slipper got a bit hot but did work fine only thing i can say i need to fix is my rear supention its a bit to soft
i stil smile GGGGthis truck is so good and is just in a nother leag then my nexx was its great.
just 1 thing remeber to put on the right servo horn
mann im a noob.but other then that it was great.
my slipper got a bit hot but did work fine only thing i can say i need to fix is my rear supention its a bit to soft
11-05-2011, 10:54 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (12)
This is what I used to make mine. The threads in the insert are 8-32. This works great. I have lots of arrows. So had all the parts laying around. And the revo ends thread onto 8-32 thread all. If people don't want to buy whole arrows. What you could do is go to an archery range. they usually will have a bucket of busted arrows. Your odds will go up if there is a 3D coarse there.