TLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
Tech Elite
iTrader: (14)
Lesser the P (Parallel) the better, but using a 2s2p bat.. heheh coz its cheaper...(Turnigy).
Tech Elite
iTrader: (19)
Just to clarify, I am NOT saying the Losi ball cups are bad. Truthfully, I have no opinion on the Losi ones as this is my first race quality 1/10 2wd car. I actually was pretty impressed with the quality of the build of this car. Much better quality kit than the SCTE imho. The whole reason I bought the 22 was that it looked more robust and durable than competing brands.
My question was why ball cups are used on 1/10 vehicles instead of captured ends like on 1/8 cars. I always see a lot of DNFs for ball cups popping off at club races from fairly benign crashes and it seems like an unnecessary weak point. If the cups were captured, it is one less thing you have to worry about.
Is the ball cup to dissapate force from crashes and thus resulting in less actual vehicle damage? Is it that mfg's are just cheap? Do they peform better? Or is it just one of those "Always been that way" type of things...
Just curious.
My question was why ball cups are used on 1/10 vehicles instead of captured ends like on 1/8 cars. I always see a lot of DNFs for ball cups popping off at club races from fairly benign crashes and it seems like an unnecessary weak point. If the cups were captured, it is one less thing you have to worry about.
Is the ball cup to dissapate force from crashes and thus resulting in less actual vehicle damage? Is it that mfg's are just cheap? Do they peform better? Or is it just one of those "Always been that way" type of things...
Just curious.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (10)
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
guys, just put together my 22 kit, but when i tried putting on the front shock tower and bulk head, the steering arm hit the underside of the tower.no matter what spacers i used on the steering servo, it would still hit.I had to dremel about 20thou off the plastic to allow the steering ballcup to complete its arc.I am using a Futab s9550 low profile servo.Has anyone else experienced this
Also, there is nothing in the way of the shock setups in the manual.After i assembled all mine, the shocks seem to rebound rather quickly.is this correct or do i have too much air in them ? I have built the buggy to the book set up
Any tips appreciated for a noob !
Also, there is nothing in the way of the shock setups in the manual.After i assembled all mine, the shocks seem to rebound rather quickly.is this correct or do i have too much air in them ? I have built the buggy to the book set up
Any tips appreciated for a noob !
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Just to clarify, I am NOT saying the Losi ball cups are bad. Truthfully, I have no opinion on the Losi ones as this is my first race quality 1/10 2wd car. I actually was pretty impressed with the quality of the build of this car. Much better quality kit than the SCTE imho. The whole reason I bought the 22 was that it looked more robust and durable than competing brands.
My question was why ball cups are used on 1/10 vehicles instead of captured ends like on 1/8 cars. I always see a lot of DNFs for ball cups popping off at club races from fairly benign crashes and it seems like an unnecessary weak point. If the cups were captured, it is one less thing you have to worry about.
Is the ball cup to dissapate force from crashes and thus resulting in less actual vehicle damage? Is it that mfg's are just cheap? Do they peform better? Or is it just one of those "Always been that way" type of things...
Just curious.
My question was why ball cups are used on 1/10 vehicles instead of captured ends like on 1/8 cars. I always see a lot of DNFs for ball cups popping off at club races from fairly benign crashes and it seems like an unnecessary weak point. If the cups were captured, it is one less thing you have to worry about.
Is the ball cup to dissapate force from crashes and thus resulting in less actual vehicle damage? Is it that mfg's are just cheap? Do they peform better? Or is it just one of those "Always been that way" type of things...
Just curious.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
One thing that most guys are doing (myself included) is to cut a hole in the bladders inside the shock (emulsion style). Also, you do have too much air in the shock. When you bleed it the first time, pump the shock and bleed again. I usually get a bit more air out this way for about 1-2mm of rebound. The car lands great with very little rebound.
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (198)
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
It's a poor design for bleeding a shock, which is the reason I plan on having a bleed hole machined in the top of the cap like the majority of other manufacturers have done.
To me the shocks do not need a bleeder screw. They work just fine. It also looks better without one.
Tech Master
iTrader: (28)
I'm thinking of picking up one of these cars. this will b my first 1/10th buggy. looking to start racing indoors. i run 1/8th scale nitro now. is there a difference between the kit and the rtr. looking to get started the cheapest way i can.
For racing a kit is allways the way to go. Just incase you break something, need to change something you know how since you built it. But it looks really good for a RTR. Comes with 2.4 radio 13.5 sensored motor and esc. Front and Rear tires and a servo. I would get the RTR and try it. You can allways upgrade electronics later. If you bought the kit you will spend more money since you have to buy everything seperate.
TLRacing
iTrader: (25)
guys, just put together my 22 kit, but when i tried putting on the front shock tower and bulk head, the steering arm hit the underside of the tower.no matter what spacers i used on the steering servo, it would still hit.I had to dremel about 20thou off the plastic to allow the steering ballcup to complete its arc.I am using a Futab s9550 low profile servo.Has anyone else experienced this
Also, there is nothing in the way of the shock setups in the manual.After i assembled all mine, the shocks seem to rebound rather quickly.is this correct or do i have too much air in them ? I have built the buggy to the book set up
Any tips appreciated for a noob !
Also, there is nothing in the way of the shock setups in the manual.After i assembled all mine, the shocks seem to rebound rather quickly.is this correct or do i have too much air in them ? I have built the buggy to the book set up
Any tips appreciated for a noob !
Is the horn centered to the bulkhead fore-aft?
The shock was designed as a bladder shock, and thus a bleeder screw would have been unnecessary. Now that we are preferring the emulsion type shock setup, the 22RTR shock caps have bleeder screws. They should be available soon.
what the hell losi
4 race old car and my rear shafts are siliver as can be. i clean my shocks ever round with a brush come on now.
do somehting about this shit
4 race old car and my rear shafts are siliver as can be. i clean my shocks ever round with a brush come on now.
do somehting about this shit
Tech Elite
iTrader: (12)
Anyone running the Promatch shorties with success? Cant beat the price.