1LikesB44.1 Thread
10-19-2011 | 12:41 PM
#796
Hey guys
I ran my 44.1 for the first time as part of the first race of our indoor local series. Last time I ran 4wd electric was last millenium
The stock spur has an obvious high spot, but I can uld live with that. Typical AE spur junk
The rear gearbox started developing a "tight" spot at the end of the 5mns of practice i ran the car for. I didn't have time to wrench on that the whole day as I was running both 2wd and 4wd the whole day, so I ran it like that, knowing it was suboptimal but hoping it would hold. It did but I spent most of the day tightening the slipper run after run, as the nut would unscrew all the time. Again, I haven't checked what shape the o-ring is in, but I suspect it's gone. During the last round of the A, which I still managed to grab, the spur ended up letting go at the same time as the slipper which went completely loose (bye bye o-ring).
had one of the local top dogs help me set it up with the diffs early in the day but obviously I did sthing wrong about it. I can set up a diff/slipper combo pretty well in 2wd, but 4wd was a bit of a new thing to me.
HEre's my Q - is there something special to do to this slipper to make it work, or to actually prevent it to work at all like mine did?
Thanks
Paul
I ran my 44.1 for the first time as part of the first race of our indoor local series. Last time I ran 4wd electric was last millenium
The stock spur has an obvious high spot, but I can uld live with that. Typical AE spur junk
The rear gearbox started developing a "tight" spot at the end of the 5mns of practice i ran the car for. I didn't have time to wrench on that the whole day as I was running both 2wd and 4wd the whole day, so I ran it like that, knowing it was suboptimal but hoping it would hold. It did but I spent most of the day tightening the slipper run after run, as the nut would unscrew all the time. Again, I haven't checked what shape the o-ring is in, but I suspect it's gone. During the last round of the A, which I still managed to grab, the spur ended up letting go at the same time as the slipper which went completely loose (bye bye o-ring).
had one of the local top dogs help me set it up with the diffs early in the day but obviously I did sthing wrong about it. I can set up a diff/slipper combo pretty well in 2wd, but 4wd was a bit of a new thing to me.
HEre's my Q - is there something special to do to this slipper to make it work, or to actually prevent it to work at all like mine did?
Thanks
Paul
10-19-2011 | 02:19 PM
#797
here is a picture of my 44.1, painted by myself... anyone interested in getting a body painted lmk
As far are set up goes, it depends on bite of track and how you drive. I know I hate sway bars, but they work for other people. stock set up is good, pretty sure I run that, but a little heavier weight in oil and I adjust the collars to where I want them depending on what tires I am running.
As far are set up goes, it depends on bite of track and how you drive. I know I hate sway bars, but they work for other people. stock set up is good, pretty sure I run that, but a little heavier weight in oil and I adjust the collars to where I want them depending on what tires I am running.
10-22-2011 | 09:18 AM
#798
i just built 2 stage shock pistons from mantis
hi anyone try these out yet and any suggestions? I put 30 weight shock oil up front and 25 in rear. seems to be awesome on the bench so far. havent finished electronics yet to see the real deal. any suggestions comments.
10-23-2011 | 06:29 PM
#800
how do I get a little bit more on power steering? Should i loosen the diff a litting bit? Im running the maifield set up right now and its perfect, super fast, its got great high speed and turn in steering, it only pushes a bit too much for my liking when exiting the corner and getting on power.
10-31-2011 | 06:55 PM
#801
Tech Regular
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 298
From: Redmond, WA
I just rebuilt my diffs for the first time and my friend said I should have also bought a couple of the longer T-nuts from the NTC3 (I had to reuse an old one). What are the actual part numbers we should be using? Should it be a TC3 or an NTC3 rebuild kit? Also, in one of the two TC3 rebuild kits there was a short T-nut in the bag and in the other there was also a long one (that is, both long and short). Is this normal or was it a mis-packaged fluke?
10-31-2011 | 08:44 PM
#803
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,167
From: Southern California
11-01-2011 | 12:52 PM
#805
i was having trouble with a used battery i bought and now im looking for a new saddle pack.. Would it be safe to run a 35c battery with my set up? Tekin rs pro with a lrp 6.5turn motor. Geared pretty low at 18. Or should i be buying 50c batteries?
11-01-2011 | 01:07 PM
#807
11-01-2011 | 01:36 PM
#809
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 3,010
I meant if you went to a 35 c lipo... depends on what c rating you are coming from. there is a difference between them, I was just saying if it feels slow with a 35c just go up on the pinion. And packs always puff a little. I am not sure the cause of it, but they still work fine. I have Never seen a lipo problem unless the esc caught on fire and took the lipo with it
11-01-2011 | 01:46 PM
#810
I meant if you went to a 35 c lipo... depends on what c rating you are coming from. there is a difference between them, I was just saying if it feels slow with a 35c just go up on the pinion. And packs always puff a little. I am not sure the cause of it, but they still work fine. I have Never seen a lipo problem unless the esc caught on fire and took the lipo with it