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Old 10-21-2011 | 11:44 AM
  #391  
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You got a toit body, toit like tiger.
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Old 10-21-2011 | 11:53 AM
  #392  
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ebuggy ordered. give me a few weeks and i be here to help guys
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Old 10-21-2011 | 12:18 PM
  #393  
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Originally Posted by neobart
You got a toit body, toit like tiger.
I just like the lines. I can't paint for $h!t hahahaha wasnt talking about the paint.
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Old 10-21-2011 | 12:28 PM
  #394  
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I was hoping someone was gonna pickup what movie that line is from.
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Old 10-21-2011 | 01:43 PM
  #395  
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My kit arrived hoping to get this built and ready for a practice run this Sunday > Thanks >> Doc >> everything came in great !
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Old 10-21-2011 | 02:43 PM
  #396  
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Originally Posted by bigjayjay1
My kit arrived hoping to get this built and ready for a practice run this Sunday > Thanks >> Doc >> everything came in great !
Breaking mine loose tomorrow
Shoot me a pm if anything pops up. But it's a work of art to get the electronics situated.

Last edited by Frank L; 10-21-2011 at 03:36 PM.
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Old 10-21-2011 | 07:59 PM
  #397  
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Default pinion

does anyone know the pitch of the pinion?
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Old 10-21-2011 | 08:30 PM
  #398  
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Originally Posted by blade329
Actually, I stand corrected. I was wrong about the weights. I just weighed my RTR Ve8 and ECO right now.

My Ve8 comes in at 3766g (8lbs 4.8 oz.)
The lighter ECO came in at 3630g (7lbs 4oz)

I don't know where I got 9lbs from, but I hadn't weighed it in a long time. The Ve8 IS considered to be one of the heaviest buggies out there. It's also one of my favorites. I used 2x 2S Gens Ace Lipos (305g ea). So, based on that, I would have to say the 811E is a heavyweight for sure. I think the ECO is in the perfect weight range. Not too heavy and not too light.

I too am interested to hear from other owners of the 811e. I like to try different things, so I looking for an excuse to try out this buggy. Although, the ECO is going to be a tough act to follow for sure.

If your ECO weighed in at 3630 gms that makes it 8.02 lbs not 7 lbs 4 oz
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Old 10-21-2011 | 11:35 PM
  #399  
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I just got mine together and ran a test run.



Pros:
Excellent engineering, sleek look and fabulous parts quality and fit.
Turning radius was 15-40% smaller than other brands I've had in the past.

Cons:
Weird way they make you do the shims on the inside of the diff bearings for the conical and bevel gear mesh. Very labor intensive to change out shims but once done it might actually be better since you don't have the inevitable slipping off of those shims (like on most cars where the shims are on the outside of the bearing) and wondering "was that 2 shims on right, 1 on the left.... err... maybe the other way around..."

My motor mount was very tight (too tight) slipping it into the motor mount.
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Old 10-22-2011 | 12:13 AM
  #400  
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Originally Posted by neobart
You got a toit body, toit like tiger.
Austin Powers Goldmember?

Anyway onto the car, what motors and gearing are you guys running. With a Tekin 2050kv motor what pinions are you using and could you finish a 20 minute final?
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Old 10-22-2011 | 05:57 PM
  #401  
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Originally Posted by jasonwipf
I just got mine together and ran a test run.



Pros:
Excellent engineering, sleek look and fabulous parts quality and fit.
Turning radius was 15-40% smaller than other brands I've had in the past.

Cons:
Weird way they make you do the shims on the inside of the diff bearings for the conical and bevel gear mesh. Very labor intensive to change out shims but once done it might actually be better since you don't have the inevitable slipping off of those shims (like on most cars where the shims are on the outside of the bearing) and wondering "was that 2 shims on right, 1 on the left.... err... maybe the other way around..."

My motor mount was very tight (too tight) slipping it into the motor mount.
Nice way to put its electric.
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Old 10-22-2011 | 09:23 PM
  #402  
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Guys I shimmed the front and rear diff per new inserted instructions but man its very tight was yours the same way. I know it says it take about an hour for things to losen up but holy moley its tight.

Three .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for front
Two .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for rear.
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Old 10-22-2011 | 10:37 PM
  #403  
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I did exactly what you did and followed the "new shimming instruction" sheet and I thought the same thing. I guess I will trust them. Lol
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Old 10-22-2011 | 11:20 PM
  #404  
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Originally Posted by bigjayjay1
Guys I shimmed the front and rear diff per new inserted instructions but man its very tight was yours the same way. I know it says it take about an hour for things to losen up but holy moley its tight.

Three .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for front
Two .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for rear.
I haven't built the kit but would assume that shim placement in the manual is a guide only, it's there to allow for differences in plastic mouldings and gear sets etc. Is it physically tight to turn, if so I would say that it's wrong for your case. Shims are to be used to get the correct mesh.
I know that Serpent recommend to have the gearboxes set a little too tight in beginning to allow everything to bed in, but this should just result in the gear mesh being a bit notchy, not actually hard to turn the input shaft.
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Old 10-22-2011 | 11:37 PM
  #405  
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i just weigh mines fully loaded minus the body. came out to 8 pounds flat.

tekin combo
2 2s orion 5000man
proline crime fighters
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