Serpent 811E Buggy Thread
#396

Shoot me a pm if anything pops up. But it's a work of art to get the electronics situated.
Last edited by Frank L; 10-21-2011 at 03:36 PM.
#398
Actually, I stand corrected. I was wrong about the weights. I just weighed my RTR Ve8 and ECO right now.
My Ve8 comes in at 3766g (8lbs 4.8 oz.)
The lighter ECO came in at 3630g (7lbs 4oz)
I don't know where I got 9lbs from, but I hadn't weighed it in a long time. The Ve8 IS considered to be one of the heaviest buggies out there. It's also one of my favorites. I used 2x 2S Gens Ace Lipos (305g ea). So, based on that, I would have to say the 811E is a heavyweight for sure. I think the ECO is in the perfect weight range. Not too heavy and not too light.
I too am interested to hear from other owners of the 811e. I like to try different things, so I looking for an excuse to try out this buggy. Although, the ECO is going to be a tough act to follow for sure.
My Ve8 comes in at 3766g (8lbs 4.8 oz.)
The lighter ECO came in at 3630g (7lbs 4oz)
I don't know where I got 9lbs from, but I hadn't weighed it in a long time. The Ve8 IS considered to be one of the heaviest buggies out there. It's also one of my favorites. I used 2x 2S Gens Ace Lipos (305g ea). So, based on that, I would have to say the 811E is a heavyweight for sure. I think the ECO is in the perfect weight range. Not too heavy and not too light.
I too am interested to hear from other owners of the 811e. I like to try different things, so I looking for an excuse to try out this buggy. Although, the ECO is going to be a tough act to follow for sure.
If your ECO weighed in at 3630 gms that makes it 8.02 lbs not 7 lbs 4 oz
#399
Tech Addict
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 527
From: Houston, Texas
I just got mine together and ran a test run.

Pros:
Excellent engineering, sleek look and fabulous parts quality and fit.
Turning radius was 15-40% smaller than other brands I've had in the past.
Cons:
Weird way they make you do the shims on the inside of the diff bearings for the conical and bevel gear mesh. Very labor intensive to change out shims but once done it might actually be better since you don't have the inevitable slipping off of those shims (like on most cars where the shims are on the outside of the bearing) and wondering "was that 2 shims on right, 1 on the left.... err... maybe the other way around..."
My motor mount was very tight (too tight) slipping it into the motor mount.

Pros:
Excellent engineering, sleek look and fabulous parts quality and fit.
Turning radius was 15-40% smaller than other brands I've had in the past.
Cons:
Weird way they make you do the shims on the inside of the diff bearings for the conical and bevel gear mesh. Very labor intensive to change out shims but once done it might actually be better since you don't have the inevitable slipping off of those shims (like on most cars where the shims are on the outside of the bearing) and wondering "was that 2 shims on right, 1 on the left.... err... maybe the other way around..."
My motor mount was very tight (too tight) slipping it into the motor mount.
#400
Tech Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 498
From: Southampton
#401
I just got mine together and ran a test run.

Pros:
Excellent engineering, sleek look and fabulous parts quality and fit.
Turning radius was 15-40% smaller than other brands I've had in the past.
Cons:
Weird way they make you do the shims on the inside of the diff bearings for the conical and bevel gear mesh. Very labor intensive to change out shims but once done it might actually be better since you don't have the inevitable slipping off of those shims (like on most cars where the shims are on the outside of the bearing) and wondering "was that 2 shims on right, 1 on the left.... err... maybe the other way around..."
My motor mount was very tight (too tight) slipping it into the motor mount.

Pros:
Excellent engineering, sleek look and fabulous parts quality and fit.
Turning radius was 15-40% smaller than other brands I've had in the past.
Cons:
Weird way they make you do the shims on the inside of the diff bearings for the conical and bevel gear mesh. Very labor intensive to change out shims but once done it might actually be better since you don't have the inevitable slipping off of those shims (like on most cars where the shims are on the outside of the bearing) and wondering "was that 2 shims on right, 1 on the left.... err... maybe the other way around..."
My motor mount was very tight (too tight) slipping it into the motor mount.

#402
Guys I shimmed the front and rear diff per new inserted instructions but man its very tight was yours the same way. I know it says it take about an hour for things to losen up but holy moley its tight.
Three .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for front
Two .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for rear.
Three .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for front
Two .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for rear.
#404
Tech Regular
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 498
From: Southampton
Guys I shimmed the front and rear diff per new inserted instructions but man its very tight was yours the same way. I know it says it take about an hour for things to losen up but holy moley its tight.
Three .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for front
Two .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for rear.
Three .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for front
Two .2 shims before the pinion gear next to bearing for rear.
I know that Serpent recommend to have the gearboxes set a little too tight in beginning to allow everything to bed in, but this should just result in the gear mesh being a bit notchy, not actually hard to turn the input shaft.



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