I just ran it up and down the street out front at 2am
I will have it on the track this Sat and Sun. I will get some pics and video up. It feels very plush. Have to see what it can do on the track.

The car looks dialed Frank, i'm eager to know how does it work on the track but i'm guessing it will be great.

Could you please tell me the weight with and without batteries?

Anyone else build one yet. I started on mine tonight and I have to say I'm a little dissapointed. I'm an onroad TC guy and am used to Xray fit and finnish so I'm over the top anal about perfection. Most pieces are up there in quality with the best, but I am less than half way done and I am missing a locknut and a couple of screws. Not a big deal b/c I have an assortment of 12.9 hardened screws. My biggest issue is securing the entire rear end to the chassis. The aluminum toe plates do not line up with the cut outs in the chassis and the rear will not drop in or force in. It's pretty far off. I know this kind of thing is normal with new cars so I'm not angry just wanted to know if anyone else was having any similar or other issues. The buggy is still super hot and I can't wait to finnish.

Sorry to hear about your issues. I got mine on Monday and the build went very very smoothe. I had it built in maybe 4hrs the rear end was a little tight but maybe you tightened the hinge pin holder screws a little too much. I just need to solder the electronics now and woo hoo it will be ready. Im in no hurry because I cant race this weekend due to my mothers b-day. I dont know why she cant postpone that for a week LOL.

Looks like I need to place a order! Since I'm new to electric rc'ing, ghow are people soldering the 2 lipos?

The trays are designed to be run with typical 1/10 scale packs with the 4mm banana plug sockets so if you get these its just a case of running a wire (with a banana plug either end) between the + of one pack to the - of the other and then 2 wires (with banana plugs) from both of the other sockets (+ on one pack and - of the other) to the connector.

Like this




Or if you dont have the appropriate packs a series harness will do.

series harness pic linked below

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...n_Series_.html

Thanks Nogas, that helped out. I have to buy everything so I'm probably going to get batteries that need banana plugs.

Ya the trays are cut out for the plugs. I might order some banana plug packs too

i really like the look of the cars, and i am sure the dual battery would do wonders to balance the cars. my only problem is running long finals.
i love racing and trashing the nitro boys and see they face drop when i clear jumps and dont have to pit!
with two lipo batteries.
it will be a pain to change battery and charge them.
i am in the midst of designing a way to fit/ slot a battery pack like the old nokia / motorola mobile phones, so the pit crew could change my battery in under 20 sc.

Ok heres some answers to questions.

The dimensions for where the ESC sits are 47mm x 55mm. The Rx8 just fits in there and heres a pic







Here is a close up of the motor and steering post. I havent measures it but I can tonight. It is close...



The car weighs 3745 grams ready to race. Just a little info.

What mAh lips is that Frank?

I get 3620 with a 4000mAh Nano-tech in my 8ight-EU turned electric.

Wow! Is there a mistake? I can't believe it's that heavy, even if you're using heavy batteries(around 600g in worst cases) it's too much

Those are 5200mah thunderpower packs. I need to get some packs with tubes though. This car works better with that style connector.

You could probably get away with smaller may lipos, if you're running 10min mains like we do. I get 12-14 minutes on the packs I have now with a 2200kv motor. I saved 100g going from a 5000 to 4000mah pack.

Too much? Most 1/8th e-buggies weigh from 8.0 to 9+ pounds fully loaded. My Ve8 comes in over 9lbs. That's the nature of the beast.