hey guys i have been using an outerwear's shroud and it will be available soon to the general public. it works really great no heat problems and seals it up very nice . in my truck i use tekin rx8 and the new pro4 4000 540 my temps stay around anywhere from 100-150 depending on the temperature. i can post up some pics if you would like to see

I am having a real love/hate relationship with this truck. I ran in the final MORL series race at Dakota Phend's home track and qualified 9 seconds behind him with one bobble that maybe cost me 1 second. Driving this thing fast isn't my issue, but the consistency is where the hate part comes in. I have the clutch basket nearly locked down so throwing it into a corner feels great 90% of the time, but then after several nice laps it will throw a fit and roll/spin/skip. Locals watching my truck commented that while dakotas truck just looked stuckto the trak, mine floated and looked like it was clawing at the track rather than grabbing it. Tbh i didn't put any money into the truck all summer so I've only been seriously working on it the past month or so. If anyone sees something in this setup that they've changed for the better lmk:
Blue springs all around.
Outer hole on all arms, outer in front and middle on the towers.
1.2 mm pistons all around with 35 front/30 rear.
Inner hole on the front tower and outer on the rear for the camber links.
No RC shims anywhere.
Inner hole on rear uprights.
2 deg camber all around.
24mm ride height.
2 oz in the front to augment f/r weight bias to 46/54.
Weighs 6lb 4oz body on ready to go.
10k front 3k rear diff oils.
4000 pro4 motor geared 16/62.
Brakes dialed back to 60%.
No shock shaft protectors.
Running caster 8th scale O-rings in the shocks.

I apologize for any grammar/spelling mistakes in the prior post. Typed that all on my iPhone.

You are running outside so I would suggest going to RC10.com and downloading Cavalieri's most recent set-up sheet and move closer to that.

Don't totally lock down the slipper...sounds to me like you are glazing the pads. Take a close look at those. The whole POINT of having the clutch basket I thought was to have the slipper work like it was originally supposed to? So locking it down sort of negates the need for it.

2 degrees of camber seems a bit much. You probably corner great...but it upsets the truck in the bumps greatly. I'd go back to about 1-1.5 and you didn't say your toe setting. For the most part I'd try to mimic Cav's set-up and just TRY it that way before you go making changes.

Krio,

Are you running sway bars? My problem is the consistency also. The sway bars did help a little.

Nate

I Probably should have mentioned the track. lol. It was indoors at AMS raceway in grand blanc, MI.

I originally went to 2deg camber to eliminate the truck tripping itself at entry and mid corner so that it washes out rather than rolling. I'll try removing some front camber to start.

When I say locked down on the slipper I mean the spring is almost fully compressed. I have an h pad on the inside and 2 standard pads in the clutch basket. After 2 race days (or 5-6 full practice packs) there are signs that the pads slip, but I don't need I sand them to remove glazing for another 2 race days.

My bad again, forgot to mention those.

I have the yellow swaybar in front with blue in the rear.

Because with the front transmission belt pinned to the rear trans, you can now use all the power you have in the truck. That puts extra load on the idler gear, particularly the rear one. And we were already driving these trucks before this started, the gears were likely not perfect so add grip and add power and ker-blammo.

When the decoupled slipper was working, it would torque bias to the front or rear, meaning it would slip all the time, and the transmission took less load. The solution is to replace the gears on a regular basis and to set the slipper looser (similar to how an SC10 would be adjusted)

I could not believe how much more throttle I could use when I drove mine. Previously, I had to drive the truck really conservatively else the chassis would do bad things. Now I want more motor!

Krio,

Most of the guys I run with are going with spacers under the camber links to avoid that rolling or 'tripping' as you call it, rather than adjusting the camber to such a great angle.

Also replacing those front BLUE springs with YELLOW will help that problem.

I was pretty sure that you were talking about an outdoor track that you were running at just above here? Dakota's track is INDOORS? Impressive to have an indoor facility at your home (or Dakota's)!

If you are talking about more than one track, well...you should know that you'll have to change your set-up to the track. So I must be mistaken somehow in thinking we are talking about more than 1 track/situation.

But no pinned front slipper pad, right? Mine did the exact same thing before I modified the slipper.

I would suggest you do the following:

1. Mark (L,R), and then remove the a arms and inspect them for flatness. If you have two race days on them, they are probablly warped. If they are difficult to get the hinge pins out of, they are probablly warped. If they are straight, reinstall them on the other side.
2. Pin the front belt to the rear transmission.
3. Replace the idler gears in the rear.
4. Go try it again.

Krio,

What tires were you running?

I club race at AMS weekly.

Key changes In the last week to my setup for AMS are 3 washers under front ball studs, long wheel base and Mixed brands of tires front to rear giving more bite to the rear and less to the front.


How often do you make AMS races?

diff setup.. whats the major concensus.. 10/5 front rear? i seen some people running super thick in the front.. thanks..

track.. outdoor.. loamy.. wet.. rutted.. no big jumps.. very stock SC friendly..

in a nutshell pin mod 10/5, stock slipper setup 30/5

For those that have pinned it , and are running the mtk basket , where did you set the slipper to begin ( or finish after you blew up idler) with. I just pinned mine and run the basket with 3 garodiscs. I am going to start with the shaft inside the nut 1-2 mm and see if it holds or slips to much and tighten from there. Hopefully the idler will survive.

By his "home track" I meant where he races most often/closest to his house. Like how Ryan Maifields home track was SRS in Arizona before he want factory traveling team.

This past month I've spent all my track time at 2 different tracks with similar surfaces (both are indoor clay, smooth, relatively high traction) so I know changes need I be made when going elsewhere. I'm just trying to get the car dialed on these surfaces since they will be my stomping grounds for the next 6 months as the indoor season kicks in.

I'll play with some roll center shims tomorrow night.