It does look like quite a monster spec-wise. I'm thinking about giving the 1015 a shot. No issues with them getting jittery or anything? I'm a JR fan but the older they get, the more trouble you get with centering after the gears get a little worn.

The XP DS 1015 is an excellent choice for this truck. In fact, I love that servo so much I use it exclusively

Thanks! Going to try one out.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ole-motor.html

Couldn't tell you. I haven't had it long enough to say for sure, but I bought a used one of unknown origin for my 2w and it was exactly the same in so far as centering as the new one.

I have had my truck for about two months, and have four race days on it. Two seven minute qualifiers, one ten minute main, and whatever practice I run on it. Other than mess with the motor and adding some lead here and there, I haven't worked on it a lick other than blow it off with the air compressor. So to whoever said the truck is hard to work on:

The truck is not hard to work on, and even if it was, you never really have to work on it.

I've done so little maintenance to it I got to feeling a little guilty. I'd never even changed the shock oil! So I expected that gray mud to come out when I changed it this morning.

Nope. It looked like I just put it in - perfectly clear! Those shock boots really work. My 2w can't go two days and not have the shocks junk. Not to mention I had to work on the ball diff every couple of days because it got notchy.

My belt tunnel is starting to warp. I have looked at it every run since I got this truck, but my last track day I made contact (hit) a turn marshal five seperate times (don't ask) and I think that did it in. I proactively fixed it with a 4-40 screw and a couple of old Losi shock spacers, preloading the pin so it straightens the tunnel out. I'd of used a metric screw, but I didn't have one.

Same here This thing has turned out to be bullet proof for me. Our 6 race day series is almost over and the only thing I've replaced on it was the clicker because the nut backed off and tires. I think I'm going to CA the clicker as I like the brakes with it locked up and the thing turns and rotates on a dime as it is.

Clutch basket and the Tekin Pro4 4600 have made it a controllable rocket too.

I like your custom battery strap for the saddles.

Guys,
today I finally got the chance to run my SC10 4x4 for the very first time and I am very very pleased with the way this car handles :-)
Just a quick question: each time I back the car up from a complete standstill, I get this annoying sound from the drivetrain. It sounds a bit like driving a stick shift car (a real one) and releasing the clutch just a tiny bit early, before the gear is quite in. You know, a grinding sound.
But that's just when driving backwards from a complete standstill, and it can only be heard for one yard or so, then the sound is gone. Is that the clicker? Should I be worried? I checked the drivetrain and gear mesh afterwards, and everything looks fine.
Any feedback is appreciated.
Cheers

So when are we gonna have clear belt covers.... Getting tired of the mystery belt. Why does the car feel like it has a drag brake, is it on right? Is it looped over the tensioner? Did that last lawn dart cause it to slack up too much and flip inside out?

My car has shrunk over time and the belt covers are crashing into each other. There wasn't much room to begin with, but now they are going to split. I used a zip tie to keep the housing from buckling to the right which causes belt rub. But I like that idea with using that Craig did there.

BTDT, on my 2wd for awhile.

Downsides:

1. Heavy, especially in rotational inertia.
2. Cost as much as 3 sets of AE wheels. And if you strip one, aww shit.
3. Pain in the ass to change tires during a race day, picking clay out of bead screws, etc.
4. Can only use Proline tires. Others can be forced in, but won't stay in or will bend the beadlock over time.
5. Barrel size is larger so the tire inserts give the tires more of a donut shape.
6. Softer compounds squirt out of the bead easily.
7. Over time the inner wheel bead starts bending and doesn't hold.
8. If they can't handle the power and side bite of a 2wd, imagine how easily they'd come out on a 4x4!

I know there are advantages, but not worth it to me. And I'm a seriously cheap bastard with my RCs.

Emulsion= Bumpy and large jumpy tracks

Bladder= Smooth, high-bite clay with medium sized jumps

when you see a guys running bead locks that is having a problem with them coming off, he is running different brand tires and bead locks. thats the most common issue ive seen.

Purchased new gear diffs for my 4x4. Other then replacing fluid in the diffs at initial build of kit, I have nothing to reference to as far as building the diff.

My new gear diffs come with 2 different size o rings. Yet my manual shows all 4 being the same size and part #. Is the manual wrong? Or do I have 2 of the wrong sizes? If it's right, which o ring goes where?

Thanks

Im not trying to offend anyone but im sure I will. If you are using Proline's beadlock wheels and your are having problems with the tires coming out when mounted then you are doing something wrong lol. Just so you know Ive never used Proline tires either as you can see from signature. Now I see why me and my brother are the only ones using them at the track. I'm sorry I asked my original question. I'll figure out what I want to do if I buy the truck.

anyone use the novak havok pro sc with the 4.5 550 motor? If so any problems with it in this truck

I know someone using that esc. It gets the job done.

I had one in my truck. I can't say I've been out motored on the 1/10 track I run on. It's hard packed dirt with light dust/loam. Probably to much for me... I've never ran it on a 1/8 size track though.

Only complaint I have is it doesn't always turn on. Fan comes on but no go. Anyone else have this issue? Cycle off and on a couple times and it starts up.