Does the +12 chassis keep the car within the ROAR specs? I know 4mm is not much but was just wondering how close it is since the team guys are running only 8mm longer

it should be well within the limits. Im sitting at 282mm and my chassis is about 11mm longer and well within the limit of 292mm. I believe you can run a truck chassis un-cut and still be within limits.

I am at 285mm with the +12 chassis. Almost identical to a 22. So it is well within the limits. The T4 with the +4 chassis is right at the legal limit of 292mm. Here is a pic of both the B4 and T4. Nevermind the wiring clutter on the T4, didnt have a chance to route those neatly yet

That is perfectly within the rules to have a link in your signature.

Now back to the b4.1 / t4.1 thread!

Thanks to you all for your advice on my request for a performance upgrade I asked about for my RTR B4.1 on page 399 of this forum.
I hate to admit it, but I am very new to RC cars having run only the past 2 months and only have about 2-3hrs of run time on a Slash 4x4 and the B4.1 RTR.

I am pretty familiar with the common named parts of this car but when advisers use more technical slang, I get lost. If someone would like to respond again I would greatly appreciate it. Please tell me the parts or kit name I can use and also any chassis or suspension adjustments I can make in more simple terms, I again would appreciate it.

I am not interested in upgrading to the longer chassis now (maybe later) and my primary interest is improving handling or suspension parts/ modifications.
Increase in speed such as faster motor is not what I am interested now because at my primary track I run at, the top speed of this car is enough for the one straight they have.

Just some advice needed to a 57 yr old coot wanting to be a kid again.
Thanks all......Rick

here's the part no. for the rear toe-in block's everyone was telling you about ASC7487. personally i wouldn't rule the longer chassis out of the equation they're pretty easy to drive!

im getting my b4.1 redy for indoor racing i have a 5000 kv tacon motor any recomendations for what esc i should run in it.

Tekin RS esc..

I remember somewhere in this thread it was mentioned how to tell between the b4.1 plastic b4 plastic and b44 rear arms? Can someone tell me that again I am trying to figure out which ones I have on.

Thanks!

In addition to the parts, check out this link. Awesome stuff here: http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

Also, there's a thread called Tuning With Camber Links that has some great tuning info in it too.

The softer B4.1 arms have one built-in ball end for the swaybar, the B44.1 arms are a little firmer and have two of the ball ends. Then you have the Carbon arms which are the firmest.

Order from softest to firmest.

B4.1
B44.1
carbon rear arms

Most run the B44.1 rear arms on the B4.1 because the B4.1 arms tend to be too soft and noodly. This is the conclusion after reading many discussions on this matter. Chris from AE has listed the same order as above. Others will tend to argue this matter.

hmm odd I must have switched mine and just don't remember. I have a sway bar ball in the front and rear of the arm.

Two balls are better than one and certainly better than none.

That is the B44.1 arm

Never leave home without them!