5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
09-07-2011 | 07:32 PM
#7321
Cool Thanks guys, I do plan on sticking with 540 motors so maybe I will try 48 pitch 1st. Since I have all the pinions already.
I have a couple different motor options to try
Hopefully I do not have to take the 550 plunge, most tracks here I will run on are indoor and a tighter layout.
Do you guys carry extra belts with you at the track ? I will order up a clicker assembly and maybe the basics.
I have a couple different motor options to try
Hopefully I do not have to take the 550 plunge, most tracks here I will run on are indoor and a tighter layout.Do you guys carry extra belts with you at the track ? I will order up a clicker assembly and maybe the basics.
09-07-2011 | 08:07 PM
#7322
Got my new Hazard wheels from JC today. I can't wait to get them out on the track. I need to do a little body trim on the front. Back wheel sits right at fender now instead of being tucked inside.
09-07-2011 | 08:56 PM
#7323
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Been reading the thread for the last couple nights Great Front page BTW 
I just picked up a used sc10 4x4 and will be installing a new Xerun 2.1 120a with either a 5.5 (540) tekin or a 1410 castle motor.
Would you guys recommend 32 pitch for indoor clay or is the 48 pitch ok ? With the 1410 at least
Also what spares are common to keep in your pit box.. I got to get a Amain order coming
Thanks everyone
I just picked up a used sc10 4x4 and will be installing a new Xerun 2.1 120a with either a 5.5 (540) tekin or a 1410 castle motor.
Would you guys recommend 32 pitch for indoor clay or is the 48 pitch ok ? With the 1410 at least
Also what spares are common to keep in your pit box.. I got to get a Amain order coming
Thanks everyone
14/62 32p to start with on the 1410's gearing, go from there. If it runs cool, gear up. if it runs hot, gear down.
09-07-2011 | 09:09 PM
#7325
In reviewing the chassis setup posts here I started to wonder how temperature comes into play when it comes to shock oil. Here in Phoenix it's pretty common to run in 100+ (many nights over 110). I'm wondering if anyone has experience with the heat and what kind of weights they run.
For example would an 80 degree setup of 35/30 f/r need something like 40/35 or even higher for 100+ temps? Obviously an overly simplified scenario in this case.
Perhaps temps do not have much of an impact on the oil...I really don't know.
For example would an 80 degree setup of 35/30 f/r need something like 40/35 or even higher for 100+ temps? Obviously an overly simplified scenario in this case.
Perhaps temps do not have much of an impact on the oil...I really don't know.
09-07-2011 | 09:57 PM
#7327
It could happen to anyone. I ran the 48p gear with my 5.5 & had no problem...just needed more torque so I went back to my 4.5 550 & 32p gears. Bs stuff can happen to any of us...I've got 22 years in the hobby...wow I don't want to know how much money I've put into this hobby! 
09-08-2011 | 03:43 AM
#7329
Problems?
Other than scuffing and or replacing slipper pads and tightening the clicker, taking care of this truck is a no brainer.
The only parts that have actually broken was a front CVA and that was catastrophic. Even then, I just rebuilt it.
Set it up right the first time. Do the maintenance, make adjustments as needed. Tuesday night, the difference between not having or having rear traction was a 1 degree change in rear camber.
No problems.
Other than scuffing and or replacing slipper pads and tightening the clicker, taking care of this truck is a no brainer.
The only parts that have actually broken was a front CVA and that was catastrophic. Even then, I just rebuilt it.
Set it up right the first time. Do the maintenance, make adjustments as needed. Tuesday night, the difference between not having or having rear traction was a 1 degree change in rear camber.
No problems.
09-08-2011 | 09:45 AM
#7330
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 413
From: LA, Cali
Well, I've got two major mechnical issues with the truck-
1. Leaky diff. box- I've built at least 3 sets (brand new boxes) all leaks. Green slime on the seal didn't help much. Should I put two seals?
2. Belt popping off on the front- Have tried all the tension setttings, middle-middle seems to work better. But once I popped that 1st time (Almost like an twisted angle) its been poppin'...
1. Leaky diff. box- I've built at least 3 sets (brand new boxes) all leaks. Green slime on the seal didn't help much. Should I put two seals?
2. Belt popping off on the front- Have tried all the tension setttings, middle-middle seems to work better. But once I popped that 1st time (Almost like an twisted angle) its been poppin'...
09-08-2011 | 10:36 AM
#7331
Well, I've got two major mechnical issues with the truck-
1. Leaky diff. box- I've built at least 3 sets (brand new boxes) all leaks. Green slime on the seal didn't help much. Should I put two seals?
2. Belt popping off on the front- Have tried all the tension setttings, middle-middle seems to work better. But once I popped that 1st time (Almost like an twisted angle) its been poppin'...
1. Leaky diff. box- I've built at least 3 sets (brand new boxes) all leaks. Green slime on the seal didn't help much. Should I put two seals?
2. Belt popping off on the front- Have tried all the tension setttings, middle-middle seems to work better. But once I popped that 1st time (Almost like an twisted angle) its been poppin'...
1: try using LESS oil in the diff.
2: Take brake out. example: I run 35% brake.
09-08-2011 | 10:45 AM
#7332
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,905
From: SOMEWHERE LUVIN ME SOME RC
Well, I've got two major mechnical issues with the truck-
1. Leaky diff. box- I've built at least 3 sets (brand new boxes) all leaks. Green slime on the seal didn't help much. Should I put two seals?
2. Belt popping off on the front- Have tried all the tension setttings, middle-middle seems to work better. But once I popped that 1st time (Almost like an twisted angle) its been poppin'...
1. Leaky diff. box- I've built at least 3 sets (brand new boxes) all leaks. Green slime on the seal didn't help much. Should I put two seals?
2. Belt popping off on the front- Have tried all the tension setttings, middle-middle seems to work better. But once I popped that 1st time (Almost like an twisted angle) its been poppin'...
09-08-2011 | 10:47 AM
#7333
Our track has really low traction, even when wet, I put the overdrive pulley on the front, and it made all the difference, truck was pulling 1/8 times, I have a video uploading right now, will post it when its done. That new 4pole motor is unreal, very smooth, and good on battery, no problem going 10 mins, came off at 140 degrees, speed controller was 124, even with under tray on it.
09-08-2011 | 10:58 AM
#7334
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 413
From: LA, Cali
2. I'm at 85% so less could be the answer, but now I don't even use the brakes just let it coast after the front straight let the drag brake do the work.
I think the jumps are causing the poppin'... too much chassis flex.
