I tried searching through the thread and didnt find what I was looking for. On the stock ae 4x4 wheels what is the measurement from the back edge to the hex? Thanks
Nick

I have a question, just bought a used sc10 4x4 how tight should the belt be?

there really is not "correct setting". The manual never really tells how tight it should be. The manual does show where the initial settings the tensioners should be at. I'd go by that first, then tighten them if need be.

I run mine in the middle on both tensioners. My belt should be broke by now and I still haven't tightened it up any more.

To tight will cause binding,don't want that, and too much brake will make the belt skip on the front pulley, not a huge deal. Turn you brake epa down enough to lessen the skipping.

Who runs the LRP X12L 5.5 in the sc10 4x4.

what do you think of it ( honestly )

temps? gearing ?

I cant control the heat in this thing. all my timing is set to zero, runnig a 13T pinion on 62 spur. and this baby heats up to much to fast
I do like the smoothnes.. but Im having second thoughts.

No heat problems with my speedpassion 550 sized silverarrow 6.5
No heat problems with my 3800kv castle 4-pole

runnig midzised hardpacked clay track outdoors..

Pat, that was a great race, man we traded spots like 5 times. Did the heavier fluid help you settle down more on the jump in front of the drivers stand. I was running yellow's all the way around but felt a little springy on that landing running 30wt in the front and 25wt in the rear. I am going to try 35 front and 27.5 rear next. Are you running the high torque pads with the basket? I had to switch to those to keep it consistent.

-Jorge

3S Lipo Bashing

+ YouTube Video

murky123, Im running that same motor and love it, honestly.
14/62 with 0 timing and 10 deg of advanced timing. Temps in the 160's.

Im having a hard time keeping temps under 195F that is 8 minutes driving with 77F outside temps
you use the stock timing from the motor itself? ( standard insert with 4 markings )

and I drive fairly consistant, dont even push that hard

I was going to say gear up also... Murky you are into the high RPM's to long with the 5.5 with that small pinion. Try bumping it up a few teeth, run it for 3 minutes then temp it. If it's still to hot, you most likely demagnetized the rotor and the motor will never run to its potential. And with 10 degrees of timing you are actually at 40 degrees total timing.

I will try to gear up when I hit the tracks later this week.

pffff when symmetricon told what his temps where I thought I must be doing something wrong, but it couldnt be my driving.
but I do know how to drive my truck dough, bringing home some prizes once in a while. even on national level.

Ill keep you guys posted


edit: just dont understand why EA suggest a 13T in the manual of the sc10 4x4

Different motors have different power bands. Start on the low end of the gearing chart for a given motor and work up, being easier on the motor. They could always tell you to gear it to the moon and cook a motor.

Hmmm, and the motor you were using before wasnt running that hot?
I drove out to san antonio this weekend to race and test some new goodiies and the air tems were 100+deg. Your belts arent too tight, your front and rear diff cases doent bind? and yes stock motor timing.
I hope you figure it out, because this motor has impressed me.

no binding , belt pretty loose, running clicker. diffs fine.
I keep my truck always in top shape. after every race I clean and poslish the whole truck and check everything.

gearing up like saladfork says sounds right theoreticly. maybe Im to long in the high rmp's

I recently switched to a saddle pack style set up, and it felt very good on a track that I have never driven on. Im running IP 5600 50c batteries. I got them from Pro-Match. I recently had some problems with some stick pack style batteries I bought from them and swapped them out for the IP packs (pan style). The batteries are on sale for 25$ a pack!!!!! I ran them tis weekend and they were awesome, 3000mah after 10 min, they still felt very punchy. Here is picks of my ride.


I also ran Rcshox slipper pads, they worked great, were very adjustable in terms of how much slipping happens. They felt ery consistent and did not fade when runing the slipper on the loose side. Here is some more pics of how te pads looked after running.







as you can see there is no deformation or abnormal wear on the slipper hubs or slipper pads. I was very impressed.
I have to say that it is great testing out Rcshox parts.

Hey Jorge, YES that was a great race we had! I haven't had a race like that in a long time! My reason to go to 27.5 & with yellows in the rear was actually to get a little more steering. Running 25wt with blues in the rear gave me too much rear traction. Yes, I'm running all HT slipper pads in the basket. I want to try 20k in the front diff instead of 30k but I was not motivated enough to take out the front diff .