Here ya go. The flats are smaller now.

yea the attitude of the truck changes from 540 to 550. i feel the truck prefers the 540. however I'm running a boosted 8.5 at 15/93. its faster than my tekin sc4x 4.5 curious how a 6.5 would run but something tells me not much faster than my boosted 8.5

I agree, this truck is AWESOME, but mine was built the "Wright" way by Jimmy Wright aka Racecrafter. Proline Trenchers are awesome too.

M2 compound is enough durable to race at least half a season with them? Will put around 4-5h weekly through them.

I saw the pic of the new rpm arms...I hope they are made of a stiff plastic rather than the typical rpm flexy plastic

Thanks guys. Using the tip from Pede, I was able to grind down the overlapping part of the spring enough for it to sit level and work as it should. Nice.

Someone should add "squaring off" the springs to the first page. 3 of my 4 rubbed.

Thanks again y'all...

Going racing tomorrow at west coast. Last time I was there I needed just a little more steering. So I went to 27.5 from 25 in the rear & went to yellow springs instead of blue in the rear. I was thinking of going to 20k in the front diff from 30k but I wasn't motivated enough to take out the front diff . Hopefully my changes will be enough.

Could someone please share a high bite no sway bar set up? Thanks. I have all of the away bars and springs, truck is pretty loose in the rear.

My shocks rub on the cartridges, and I don't care at all. I'd rather have them rubbing than dremeling out the cartridge.

OR even better, I'd rather buy aftermarket 1/8 springs of similar stiffness but made for 14mm or bigger bigbores and adapt them to the needed length.


@BLV: I don't have my setup sheet, but right now I'm rather happy with my setup.

Running with stockers, but with AKA Rebars/GridIrons side bit should increase a fair bit. The rear end is a bit loose under gentle throttle, but very controllable and predictable on the sliding. Will get Proline Calibers in short, will report with them.

Full stock setup, 4oz ballast in front of the ESC (right at the front of the middle chassis), rear body mounts one notch away from the maximum height, front body mounts at the very middle (increases downforce and helps with grip at high speeds/loose corners). 5000mAh 2S stick pack, 26mm high (it's one of the first hardcase high end LiPo packs made, IP 5000mAh 25C), rather heavy. Probably in the same weights as a current 5600mAh Reedy stick.

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Screw it, I'm making the setup sheet.

There ya go:

Mine does also rub quite a lot but only the rear ones.

This may work but it's a very temporary fix. After a pack or two they start to rub again... at least for me.

I used a cut-off wheel and ground the ends of the spring wire itself down. It worked and I didnt' have to grind the shock bodies. Give it a try, much smoother action w/o the rub.

hey guys, i have a newish(used once in the street, bought last week) clutch basket and 3 HT slipperpads I want to sell. 30 Shipped, PM me.

Ok, I tried something new today, a slipper pad made differently. It worked amazingly well. Check it out. If your interested , pm MantisWorx. I think these could be the future of slipper pads!

What's different about them?