Ooops...missed that...darn pics made the screen too wide and cut off some of what I saw.

Still it is a cool idea and I'd like to see more development on it

Are you going to Las Vegas IIC

Wait until you see my Car

Alf

I will be there Alf! Looking forward to seeing the changes you have made...haven't seen you post anything in awhile and I was beginning to wonder what was up. See ya there!

Question for all of the 1/12 scale racers out there: What was the scariest corner section you ever had to race around? The one where taking it right promised the glory of untouchable lap times but taking it wrong, even once, sawed the car in half and the difference was inches? The scariest one I ever saw was a carpet track that at the end of a 100' straight it sported sharp chicane which fed into a 270 degree sweeper right that was entirely made of rooted 2x4's and the lane was effectively about 5' wide, and in order to go fast you had to enter the first corner at top speed. It was a car-breaker.

I race an old CRC 3.2R with the short links, one of the advantages or disadvantages of this is it is possible to tune in some rear steering by angling the links up or down, but which would be better, none or minimal rear steer, rear steer that would angle the back end out (like a four-wheel-steer would) or rear steer that would angle the back in? Any thoughts?

Rear steer is only an advantage in oval racing where you only turn left. If you add rear steer in you will have a slight advanage for turning one way but have a disadvantage when turning the other way. So in effect you would be canceling out any advantage and having to fight the car half of the track.

Oval guys create rear steer by angling the whole rear pod so that the rear axle is no longer at 90' to the centerline of the chassis. If you add a bit of rear steer by angling the links it gives equal effect in both directions. We used to raise the front of the T-bar which among other things produces a bit of rear steer. You would have to try it to see how you prefer it or if you can feel it at all. I never tried it on a link car.

Just don't forget, angling the link up or down also raises/lowers the rear rollcenter significantly.

I'm not so sure, I would be angling the front mount of the link where it is bolted to the chassis, not the rear.

Hi Guys,

Need a little bit of help, I need to know what would be the best Pion gears to use for a 4.5 turn engine and what Spur gears can you run on a
Serpant S120 link?

Thanks

For mod on indoor carpet we run large spurs, 94-96t
small pinions, mid to low 20t range

PRS make very solid gears.

Just trimming my 1st 1/12 body.

What dia should I cut the wheel arch's to (im using crc tyres)?

How much ground clearance should I run for the shell? Same as ride height?

I usually mount the body level with the chassis, but you must be sure it doesn't drag at the front when the suspension moves. Wheel arches should be enough larger than your biggest tires that the tires won't touch the body. This is especially important with the flap behind the rear tires.

Okay I understand that using the Novak Booster, I'll have 6V on my BEC circuit when running 1s 3.7V lipo. However, does this mean I can use any BL Esc? I thought that the majority or the 2s Esc's have a minimum input voltage to be operational regardless of the BEC issue.

To use an Esc for an example like an LRP SPX Stock Spec. It states in its manual that it can use 4 - 6 cells which is an input voltage range of 4.8V - 7.4V. If I use the Novak Booster in conjunction with it, can I run the LRP on 3.7V?

You can use ANY speedo as long as you use a booster or pack. The only thing a 1s speedo does is add a built in booster.