I'll go out on a limb and say there are many tried and true methods.

How I do it is...
Front droop; lift the front end until the steering blocks are just topped out, measure with ride height gauge behind front wheels, under the chassis edge.
Lightly compress front end, let it rise, and measure again.

Rear droop; lift rear end till center shock tops out, measure with ride height gauge at rear most point on the main chassis edge.
Compress rear suspension, let it rise, and measure again.
The measured difference from fully topped out, to loaded, is the amount of droop.

I didn't realise you'd put all that together. Thanks for the links.

I really ought to go write something new if the family and actual racing stop getting in the way.

Trev

Thanks to you and many others for putting up such great articles for us.

I just thought it might be a good idea to store it all in one place to help our locals out, and makes it easy to point new 12th scale racers in the right direction.

Please let me know when you have any updates Trev.

db

On the front end of my car I made a change and put a small amount of preload on the front springs to give it a bit less aggression in steering and run more steering throw, and it worked but the front end started to steer in pulses instead of smooth like it had been before without the preload. Would increasing the dampening of the main shock help it transfer load a bit more slowly on turn-in or is does anybody have a better suggestion?

Would you describe it as double steer ?

What car, setup, tires, & surface are you running on ?

I run on a carpet track which is notable for the incredible amount of dust in it, I run Parma Yellow rear tires and Parma Lilac fronts, its an old CRC Carpet Knife 3.2R which is more of a Frankenstein car these days and has a new CRC Encore shock, 13.5 boosted and Parma body.

CRC Copper main shock spring, 30wt shock oil
0.020" front springs
CRC white (medium-tension) side springs preloaded to touch the pivot ball.
4mm ride height
CRC white (about 10,000wt) side-dampener fluid completely filling the side dampener shafts grooves to maximize side dampening
front shafts were oiled with light bearing oil and move freely in the knuckle and arm.

I would describe it as being a sort of double-steer, the front hooks, releases, then hooks again for the rest of the corner, I thought it was bouncing or something due to excessive weight transfer or the body dragging (wasn't the body). It was still very fast and controllable but it didn't instill the confidence to cut corners that little extra closer if you know what I mean.

- Speed Merchant Rev6 - Bruce Carbone - Pod Droop vs Chassis Sag -


While processing the setup sheet for the Team Speed Merchant Rev6, Speed Merchant's boss Bruce Carbone asked to add a field named "Chassis Sag" on the document. Questioning about what is Chassis Sag and if that is similar to Pod Droop, Bruce provide the following details:


Pod Droop is how far past even the bottom plate drops below the chassis at the center shock's full extension. In other words, if you look at the car from the side, and hold it in the air, it's how many degrees or millimeters the bottom plate angles downward. Personally, I've always used degrees...i.e. "I have about 2 degrees of Droop", but some people like to use Millimeters, which is basically Down-Travel past center, or past the chassis and bottom plate being even.

Chassis Sag...... is when the car is completely ready to run....ready to hit the track. Push down on your roll over antenna.....generally, the car should squat and return up, but not all the way (Unless you have your center spring really maxed out). Now, if you gently pull up on your roll over antenna, the chassis should lift until it hits the shock's full extension. Usually, about 1/2 mm, but sometimes more (especially is you have a lot of Pod Droop (bumpy tracks)). The more Chassis Sag you have, the more mellow your car is to drive, But if you have a lot of Sag, and a lot of Droop, the car will get very unpredictable...especially "off-power"...like entering a sharp 180 degree turn.....because the Droop will let too much weight transfer to the front of the car.

with front spring

SOFTER - more steering but may dig or square up too hard. Softer springs have higher chance of collapsing.

STIFFER - less steering. Does not allow the front to dive as easily. Smoothes car out on corner entry

I had double steer with my old 12L once at Bakersfield. I fixed it by increasing the side damping, but it made the car push too much in the sweeper, so I switched back and lived with the double steer.

Hey Blue Screw, Thanks for posting that nugget of info from Bruce !

On the Double Steer issue, I think we've all fought with that at one time or another.

I know my car never does that when I have a lot of front bite, or when the dual rate is dialed down.
Maybe a different front tire with more grip, and a rear pod, sag, shock adjustment would help.
Get the car settled down on corner entry, but still have enough steering mid-corner to exit.
Gluing the fronts a bit may also cure it.

Hey guys, I have a mini hyper ste in excellent condition with lots of goodies:

2 great condition chassis'- 1 is installed
Castle MMP
Trinity Pro 4 Monster Horsepower 550 motor- Sensored set up
Racing fan for the motor
IP Intellect 3s 11.1v 6800mah Lipo with deans connector and under 10 cycles!! barely used
Zippy 4s 3000mah
ICE charger with external power supply great condition
FLY SKY 2.4ghz radio and receiver
Proline crowdpleazer body painted black
**Losi 8ight front shocks in the rear!! Incredible upgrade- makes all the difference in the handling and jumping with this set up!
bag of goodies- springs for the rear shocks, stock rear shocks and springs, Novak glitch buster NIP, extra set of 1/8 wheel adapters
Front and rear universal drive shafts installed

I want to move this fast! buyer pays shipping- make me an offer guys!!
PayPal preferred
I can email pics!!!!

Hey, I have that same table...

On a different note, why are you selling this in the 1/12 scale forum?

Ah well, thanks for hearing me out, the car does have what I think is a lot of rear pod droop (about 3mm) so I'll try to take some out. The car has LOTS of steering grip, I had to turn down the steering throw to a 4-5' circle. I literally have to be at racing speed and have the back end of the car dance to get it around the hairpin corners. Next weekend I should have Lonny drive the car a few laps, see what he suggests... then again he might give me some advice he thinks will slow me down

Who, me?

Lonnie would never do that, but I would.

Just because it is a 1/12 scale truggy!