This is a 1/12 scale pan car thread in Electric On-Road, I think you would get better business in the minis thread of electric offroad or something to that effect.

You may want to try a thicker shock oil and/or a stiffer shock spring.

Because of our dusty surface your car is pushing and your compensating with extra steering throw. This is causing the front end to push and hook, push and hook. The change to the shock should give you more front end bite and allow you to dial out some of that steering throw.

The NASCAR guy's call it push to oversteer.

Let me know if it works.

Has anyone tried the Hobbywing EZRUN 3650M (380 sized) series motor?

Does it have enough torque and power to pull 1/12 versus the true 540 motors?

Just want to get some general inputs from the experts.

TIA,
Ron

That's the Larry McReynolds "pushy-loose"

My steering throw is tiny, the car had and still has huge front bite and I wanted its turning circle to be less than the width of the track, so I added the preload and gave it its dynamic steering bite back with a little more throw thinking that this would give me a tighter turning circle if I got into trouble (its a serious pain in the ass to have the car 3 feet from a barrier, pointed straight toward it, and knowing that it doesn't have the steering throw to turn away) but it made it double-steer, so I think I'm going to go to 40wt in the center shock, leave the copper spring, remove the preload from the front and put the 0.022" springs in place of its current 0.020" set. Hopefully that would reduce double-steer and allow me to run more throw.

If you have that much steering and front end bite definitely try the .22 front springs. If you can widen the front track.

If that doesn't help, soften up the rear shock. Try both the spring and the dampening.

1/12th Racing from Japan
http://www.ircc.jp/gallery.html

12th Mod

+ YouTube Video

GT500

+ YouTube Video

What are the differences in handling when mounting the servo flat(turnbuckles straight), compared to mounting the servo angled(turnbuckles angled)?

As I understand it, the difference is the bump-steer. A car with level turnbuckles will typically have a small amount of bump toe-in, its never much but in a 1/12 scale car a few thousandths can mean a lot in how it runs, while a car with the angled servo and turnbuckles will have a small amount of bump toe-out. The difference as I understand it is that the bump toe-in will make the car more aggressive in the corners when the front suspension compresses and the bump toe-in effectively turns the wheel more in, while the toe-out will make it more mellow by angling it out slightly. Just last weekend I went from a laydown servo arrangement to an angled one and saw no real difference in the cars aggression or steering throw needed to make it run.

I'm trying to put together a car to go carpet racing.

What is the best front end I can get for the standard 1/12 mounts? CRC Prostrut? BMI Copperhead? Serpent?

Also are there other economical methods of upgrading existing older style front ends like the CRC front end prior to the Pro Strut?

I'm not very familiar with the various types of front ends out there other than the AE reactive caster units that came originally in the RC12L3. Can someone give me an education and history of the reactive caster front ends?

Partly right partly not right...A flat servo will have more bump steer but the toe-in gained from the bump steer will make the car less aggressive in steering. Additionally the flat servo will have less ackerman than the angled servo. So you have your toes backward...toe-in will make the car more mellow where toe-out will make it more aggressive.

I will admit I am a bit biased but my favorite front end is the new BMI one...however it takes a bit of getting used to. Of the normal strut type front ends I would recommend the CRC with the long upper arm conversion...very smooth front end.

Depends on the level of bite....On Carpet, bump-toe on the outside front wheel makes the car steer in more off-power. The weight transfer to the front-end makes the outside wheel turn in harder, inducing MORE steering. If the car has the ability to "drift" across the track,i.e. "low-bite/asphalt", the car won't feel the same turn-in effect. Hence the reason that alot of MOD carpet racers run the servo flat, while stock racers have generally tended to prefer servo up. Mod REQUIRES more turn-in because of the greatly enhanced speeds.

Given that 1/12th in general uses a very small amount of it's possible travel then it would be better to run angled to get the increased ackerman and increase the steering throw to equal the amount of the outside wheel under load without the ackerman. That way your getting the added benefit of traction of the inner tire in the proper circle instead of dragging the inside tire. At any rate that is an unusual case and more the exception than the rule.

Sorry if his question has been asked before...

I run my 1/12 on asphalt and my front tire cones quite a bit on uneven tire wear. Currently, the outside tire wears more than the inside tire. This only happens on the left tire, the right side is quite even. Could this be because of the track layout and there are more high speed right turns than left turns?

Also, should I add more negative camber OR more positive camber to front tire? This confuses me a little. Currently, I have set both L & R to be -1 degree.

Thanks for any help.

Generally a little more coning on the left is normal on an abrasive surface but sounds like you have too much camber on that tire.