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Old 08-06-2011 | 12:48 PM
  #6796  
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i have a question for you guys

i dont want a BS answer like i get everywhere else

i need a new servo

everyone says i need like 200-300oz.. my answer to them...... "no"


for short course trucks, people say u need like 100-150oz... umm.. no

i ran a 50z servo in my sc10 and it was perfectly fine keeping up with the 5645's and the 5625's on the track, and it didnt run hot, nor did i break the servo, i still use that srevo to this day(its a cirrus MG servo from like 2002)


now.. realistically.. what is a good amount of torque for the rc8's


i had a chinese knockoff 180oz servo(which gave out about 160ish?)

and it was MORE than enough, but the slot that pin sits ing(the pin that holds the gears in place) broke

but i wanna know the minimum

80oz? 100oz?

i know these cars are heavier than 10th scale, which is why you'd need more
but i dont wanna spent $50+ on a servo.. trying to live off a budget is hard...
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Old 08-06-2011 | 02:30 PM
  #6797  
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Originally Posted by rustler001
i have a question for you guys

i dont want a BS answer like i get everywhere else

i need a new servo

everyone says i need like 200-300oz.. my answer to them...... "no"


for short course trucks, people say u need like 100-150oz... umm.. no

i ran a 50z servo in my sc10 and it was perfectly fine keeping up with the 5645's and the 5625's on the track, and it didnt run hot, nor did i break the servo, i still use that srevo to this day(its a cirrus MG servo from like 2002)


now.. realistically.. what is a good amount of torque for the rc8's


i had a chinese knockoff 180oz servo(which gave out about 160ish?)

and it was MORE than enough, but the slot that pin sits ing(the pin that holds the gears in place) broke

but i wanna know the minimum

80oz? 100oz?

i know these cars are heavier than 10th scale, which is why you'd need more
but i dont wanna spent $50+ on a servo.. trying to live off a budget is hard...
If you're on that tight of a budget I'm not so sure this is the hobby for you.

Sounds like you have already made up your mind. I say put a 30.00 cheapo in your RC8 and then spend the 85 like you should after a hard lesson learned.
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Old 08-06-2011 | 03:52 PM
  #6798  
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia
If you're on that tight of a budget I'm not so sure this is the hobby for you.

Sounds like you have already made up your mind. I say put a 30.00 cheapo in your RC8 and then spend the 85 like you should after a hard lesson learned.
been in the hobby for 10 years.....

if a 50oz servo works on a short course truck, and a 35oz servo works in a 2wd 10th scale buggy, then i see no reason why someone would need 300oz for an 8th scale buggy

maybe for a comp crawler, where the tires are literally grabbing the rock, and you wanna turn the wheels.. sure, thats fine

airplane guys use 15-20oz servos in some situations for aerobatics, which requires lots more precision and torque than turning wheels

the airplane parts can be literally blown away with ur own breath when not on the airplane, and 20oz servos keep them in place, against gravity and wind resistance, not to mention that the higher up you go, the higher the air pressure is.

i put $15 into the cheapo one, and wondering if i should just get another one and loosen the servo saver assembly a bit, or get something of better quality that will do fine

and if ur wondering if ive ever used that high amount of torque servos, yes i have

i used to run a hitec 5625 in an sc10 i had before the factory team i had
i felt no difference between the hitec and the cirrus servo im using
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Old 08-06-2011 | 05:07 PM
  #6799  
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Originally Posted by rustler001
not to mention that the higher up you go, the higher the air pressure is.
Umm, no. You got that backwards. Ever wonder why cars drag racing are faster at sea level than at elevation? More dense air.

Vehicle servos have forces put on them as well. It's more than just turning the wheels stationary on the ground. I want my servo to have enough power to keep those wheels turned while hitting bumps/rocks/ruts/jumps, etc. I also want it to be able to do this with a servo saver that isn't so loose that said bumps steer the vehicle for me everytime I hit one.

Keeping the servo saver tight and precise requires a servo that is strong so that it doesn't get stripped out, and keeping those tires turned to the position I want while the vehicle is getting all those forces put on the tires requires some torque.

I run an XP1015 in my RC8Be and feel it's a good mix of power and speed.
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Old 08-06-2011 | 05:53 PM
  #6800  
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Originally Posted by Sarinexia
If you're on that tight of a budget I'm not so sure this is the hobby for you.

Sounds like you have already made up your mind. I say put a 30.00 cheapo in your RC8 and then spend the 85 like you should after a hard lesson learned.
I did exactly that and now have an xp ds1015 in my RC8Be
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Old 08-06-2011 | 08:10 PM
  #6801  
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kinda of sounds like you have it figured out? if you don't want the answer that people are giving you, why are you asking it and saying it's a bs answer? the torque of a servo is directly correlated to how well it will perform with in your situation. if a 35 oz servo is fine, then get a 35 oz servo.
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Old 08-07-2011 | 10:23 AM
  #6802  
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We received two good questions several times so we might as well share the answer with you.

1. What is the difference between the GRID suspension geometry kit verses the AE worlds suspension kit?

Answer: The GRID does exactly the same function but does not require modification to the stock arms. It also has extended tuning range.

2. So why not call it a worlds kit as well?

Answer: Because it was not used at the worlds.
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Old 08-07-2011 | 03:25 PM
  #6803  
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http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ion-parts.html
obo .
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Old 08-07-2011 | 07:33 PM
  #6804  
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Just bought one of these. What's a good pinion for a 1900 Tekin. Also what's everybody running in their shocks oil wise. Any help would be great.
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Old 08-07-2011 | 09:49 PM
  #6805  
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Originally Posted by hcollins
Just bought one of these. What's a good pinion for a 1900 Tekin. Also what's everybody running in their shocks oil wise. Any help would be great.
Use a 19 to 21 tooth depending on track size.

What pistons are you running? 10x1.1 use anywhere from 25-30 wt oil. 8x1.3 use 30 to 35 wt oil. I never really had my car feeling dialed with stock pistons, so I'm not sure what works best if you run stock pistons.
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Old 08-08-2011 | 06:35 AM
  #6806  
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Thanks
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Old 08-08-2011 | 08:16 AM
  #6807  
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If you buy the world's upgraded suspension kit with the arms and shock towers are you still modifying anything, or is the Grid kit the way to go.
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Old 08-08-2011 | 08:25 AM
  #6808  
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Originally Posted by hcollins
If you buy the world's upgraded suspension kit with the arms and shock towers are you still modifying anything, or is the Grid kit the way to go.
you still have to modify things with the worlds kit, I don't think you have to modify anything with the grid kit but I'm not sure.
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Old 08-08-2011 | 09:28 AM
  #6809  
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The GRID kit is a100% bolt on kit.

We include special bottom shock adapters that works on the stock arms.
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Old 08-08-2011 | 10:55 AM
  #6810  
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I just posted up a NEW RC8BE in the for sale section. Has aluminum frt and rear hubs, and Grid motor mount. Buggy is brand new, just assembled. I also have a ton of spare parts, electronics, and tires and wheels.

Stephen

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-upgrades.html
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