5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
08-04-2011 | 09:38 PM
#5731
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08-04-2011 | 09:42 PM
#5732
Tech Regular
iTrader: (9)
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 396
From: SE MI
tough to give an all around setup.....all around for clay indoors, dusty indoors, loamy?? There are many factors here. If your looking for a good tire that will work for indoors, outdoors, bashing....the stock tires will do ok.
08-04-2011 | 09:55 PM
#5733
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
08-04-2011 | 10:17 PM
#5735
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 91
08-04-2011 | 10:29 PM
#5736
How is this truck out the box? How's the handling? I'm coming from a slash 4x4 lol.
Also what tires for a indoor clay track on my slash i ran jconcepts bar codes in gold all around?
Also what tires for a indoor clay track on my slash i ran jconcepts bar codes in gold all around?
Last edited by ITS ME DAVID; 08-05-2011 at 12:49 AM.
08-04-2011 | 11:05 PM
#5737
Out of the box the truck is great, but if your going to race at the tracks I mentioned I would highly recommend get sway bars front & rear.
08-04-2011 | 11:32 PM
#5738
If your running at ocrc then barcodes in gold are good. West coast likes the aka rebars in super soft. I'm sure the rebars will work at ocrc also.
Out of the box the truck is great, but if your going to race at the tracks I mentioned I would highly recommend get sway bars front & rear.
Out of the box the truck is great, but if your going to race at the tracks I mentioned I would highly recommend get sway bars front & rear.
08-05-2011 | 12:29 AM
#5739
Amazing with Gold Barcode v2's (the newer style) where I run the truck needs nothing!
08-05-2011 | 01:56 AM
#5742
Tech Adept
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 202
From: CALIFORNIA
He did...
Something I've noticed on EVERY SC10 4x4 around here (there are 5 of us at the main track so far) is that the front arms will start to deform right where the screw hole is for the sway bars. If you are not adding sway bars, put a screw into the mount anyway. It will give you a little bit more durability in your front arms. (I've seen many people here comment on this, yet it still isn't part of the initial post....)
Also, when assembling the slipper, depending on how your kit was made, you will likely have to shim it an extra 1/16th of an inch, or 2mm... I used 2 1/4" washers that were about 1/32 (1mm) thick between my slipper plate and slipper spring and I have no slipper issues. Some people report putting this on the other side of the slipper assembly (put them on the shaft before the pulley) works well. Just be careful that your belt is lined upstraight from front to back.
Drive the truck like a touring car and you will likely find more success than if you drive it like a monster truck... The general consensus is that this truck prefers finesse, while the Losi prefers to be manhandled.
Just my 3 cents.
Something I've noticed on EVERY SC10 4x4 around here (there are 5 of us at the main track so far) is that the front arms will start to deform right where the screw hole is for the sway bars. If you are not adding sway bars, put a screw into the mount anyway. It will give you a little bit more durability in your front arms. (I've seen many people here comment on this, yet it still isn't part of the initial post....)
Also, when assembling the slipper, depending on how your kit was made, you will likely have to shim it an extra 1/16th of an inch, or 2mm... I used 2 1/4" washers that were about 1/32 (1mm) thick between my slipper plate and slipper spring and I have no slipper issues. Some people report putting this on the other side of the slipper assembly (put them on the shaft before the pulley) works well. Just be careful that your belt is lined upstraight from front to back.
Drive the truck like a touring car and you will likely find more success than if you drive it like a monster truck... The general consensus is that this truck prefers finesse, while the Losi prefers to be manhandled.
Just my 3 cents.
BlueGlowBoy - Many Thanks for the informative and helpful tips! Its definitely appreciated!
08-05-2011 | 03:07 AM
#5743
So i dont know if this is something new but a friend of mine sorta mentioned something about how it could be cool to run the 4.1 aluminum hubs and that made me think of the carbon inserts they have for them so last night after racing i was looking on the wall of parts and brainstornmed this idea that ive been waning to do and hopeing it will cure the "death roll" ill call it. After modifying a stock hub and the ae carbon tower and adhering the two pieces i thought to look at a friends durango since i witnessed a different durango flying around my track where i tend to have to tippy toe. Well i saw what i thought i would see, a much higher outer ballstud height. So im sure now my set-up that i have come to and was still not super happy with will have to be fine tuned.
And hopefully my new FT shocks dont leak. I had the same issue others had with the cartridges but out of frustration and knowing i had backups i just jammed them in there and i hope there sealing ok. I will know more tomorrow.
Picture 2 shows the difference between stock and modified hub. And an example of how messy my pit table is
08-05-2011 | 03:54 AM
#5744
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 134
From: Kapiti, New Zealand
Well to start with we dont race indoors over here in NZ. Its mainly outdoors on loose loamy clay. I was thinking Goosebumps but would anything else work. Dont really want to go out and buy lots of different sets of tires to find only 1 or 2 types work the best.
08-05-2011 | 03:59 AM
#5745
AKA rebars may work good depending on how loamy it really is. Ive yet to get a pair for my sc but on my buggy they work awesome and i could picture them working outdoors.