RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#4607
Heres the chassis. WORKS SO WELL. I ran 30 weight around with #3 pistions and no other changes to setup. I run one hole out from stock camber links and the front shock is on the inner arm. EVerything else is kit setup. Without led it is a little loose but so smooth. I will put led in and see how it does tom. So so so dailedd







#4608
Rebuilt eight V2's this morning...
Super smooth but my orings are swelling After a min or two of sitting idle. Gonna order more and cross my fingers.
Thanks for everyone's input on troubleshooting.
BTW... Anyone notice this on the cheat sheets app:
"Some vehicles have more than one chassis length available."
That was in the wheelbase section.
Super smooth but my orings are swelling After a min or two of sitting idle. Gonna order more and cross my fingers.
Thanks for everyone's input on troubleshooting.
BTW... Anyone notice this on the cheat sheets app:
"Some vehicles have more than one chassis length available."
That was in the wheelbase section.
#4609
Tech Rookie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 6
From: Schuylkill Co. PA
anyone ? .........
rc10T4.1 RTR with Reedy 3300Kv motor running a 7.4V 5000mah Lipo
is going up 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion a good idea? going from a 18T to a 19 or 20 T Pinion
stock setup is 18T/87T
will i get more top end with a 19T or a 20T pinion gear?
what is the best gear setup for this truck and motor?
rc10T4.1 RTR with Reedy 3300Kv motor running a 7.4V 5000mah Lipo
is going up 1 or 2 teeth on the pinion a good idea? going from a 18T to a 19 or 20 T Pinion
stock setup is 18T/87T
will i get more top end with a 19T or a 20T pinion gear?
what is the best gear setup for this truck and motor?
#4610
Heres the chassis. WORKS SO WELL. I ran 30 weight around with #3 pistions and no other changes to setup. I run one hole out from stock camber links and the front shock is on the inner arm. EVerything else is kit setup. Without led it is a little loose but so smooth. I will put led in and see how it does tom. So so so dailedd









#4611
[QUOTE=Cpt.America;9479818]You need to brace the battery ribs too, not just the outside rib.[/QUOTE
Alright i will make the same peice and glue it to the battery part. Thanks for the heads, ill add a small peice on the flat part also. I added 3 coats of ca glue on the bottem once i had everything together. I raced it and it didnt budge but this cant hurt.
Alright i will make the same peice and glue it to the battery part. Thanks for the heads, ill add a small peice on the flat part also. I added 3 coats of ca glue on the bottem once i had everything together. I raced it and it didnt budge but this cant hurt.
#4612
So It's been a couple of weeks now since I've lengthened my chassis, and it's still holding strong.
-I went from running the front brown springs to the Kyosho Orange. I also replaced the rear grays with Kyosho Dark Yellow.
-Raised the ride height from 24mm to 25mm in the rear, and from 24 to 24.5 in front, and the car jumps level, it turns on a dime, and has traction for days.
It is safe to say, that the car is dialed, well at least for our track....
-I went from running the front brown springs to the Kyosho Orange. I also replaced the rear grays with Kyosho Dark Yellow.
-Raised the ride height from 24mm to 25mm in the rear, and from 24 to 24.5 in front, and the car jumps level, it turns on a dime, and has traction for days.
It is safe to say, that the car is dialed, well at least for our track....
#4613
Heres the chassis. WORKS SO WELL. I ran 30 weight around with #3 pistions and no other changes to setup. I run one hole out from stock camber links and the front shock is on the inner arm. EVerything else is kit setup. Without led it is a little loose but so smooth. I will put led in and see how it does tom. So so so dailedd









Good job my man .....
#4614
I cut the battery posts that work by accident not realizing=[. I drill a hole in the back of the strap and cut down the front, I think I saw a while back you used the sc10 strap? Does it remove the problem? Thanks for the compliment.
.
The track owner doesnt think it helped my car untill I lapped him a few times

I drove his car and had a sour feeling in my mouth

.The track owner doesnt think it helped my car untill I lapped him a few times


I drove his car and had a sour feeling in my mouth
#4615
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
MY FT source tells me to make one because there is not telling what AE is going to do as far as releasing a +8 chassis..
option #1 cut my CF T4 chassis
option #2 order and cut T4.1 chassis (which will come in the new .1 plastic)
option #3 order a B4.1 chassis and cut it to lengthen' my current B4.1 chassis to +8......
what's my best option??
#1 is the cheapest, not that I care, but I'm not sure if CF is the way to go...

option #1 cut my CF T4 chassis
option #2 order and cut T4.1 chassis (which will come in the new .1 plastic)
option #3 order a B4.1 chassis and cut it to lengthen' my current B4.1 chassis to +8......
what's my best option??
#1 is the cheapest, not that I care, but I'm not sure if CF is the way to go...
#4616
MY FT source tells me to make one because there is not telling what AE is going to do as far as releasing a +8 chassis..
option #1 cut my CF T4 chassis
option #2 order and cut T4.1 chassis (which will come in the new .1 plastic)
option #3 order a B4.1 chassis and cut it to lengthen' my current B4.1 chassis to +8......
what's my best option??
#1 is the cheapest, not that I care, but I'm not sure if CF is the way to go...

option #1 cut my CF T4 chassis
option #2 order and cut T4.1 chassis (which will come in the new .1 plastic)
option #3 order a B4.1 chassis and cut it to lengthen' my current B4.1 chassis to +8......
what's my best option??
#1 is the cheapest, not that I care, but I'm not sure if CF is the way to go...
#2.....

You can try the carbon , have fun with either ....
#4617
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
That was my thought as well, thanks Cherry...DUH did I just say that..
While the CF is free I don't want to "taint" my results by using it, compared to my b4.1....which after driving a couple other brands, turns like a motha fu#$a!, just looking for a little more forward bite...

While the CF is free I don't want to "taint" my results by using it, compared to my b4.1....which after driving a couple other brands, turns like a motha fu#$a!, just looking for a little more forward bite...
#4619
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
. They simply don't turn under power, which is what makes 2wd buggy the hardest class to drive. They turn off power ok and under breaking very well, that's the tough part to get right. Turning WHILE braking, yet not loosing all your rear traction with a 2wd....the rug thing doesn't help you either...been there done that..
Once you get the driving style right, then you can tune the car accordingly and only then will you notice set-up changes...IMO
#4620
Tech Master
iTrader: (42)
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,485
From: Texas..
IMO, it's driving style, took me months to figure it out. Never bothered to ask the other 2wd guys
. They simply don't turn under power, which is what makes 2wd buggy the hardest class to drive. They turn off power ok and under breaking very well, that's the tough part to get right. Turning WHILE braking, yet not loosing all your rear traction with a 2wd....the rug thing doesn't help you either...been there done that..
. They simply don't turn under power, which is what makes 2wd buggy the hardest class to drive. They turn off power ok and under breaking very well, that's the tough part to get right. Turning WHILE braking, yet not loosing all your rear traction with a 2wd....the rug thing doesn't help you either...been there done that..
I knew it had a lot to do with driving style. I forgot where I saw it, but I read one day that AE cars were "point and shoot" kind of cars, but I hate a method that is not perfectly smooth I guess. I will never give up carpet, it is the greatest thing since like, sliced bread I think?
Thanks for the reply..



