hey guys sorry this is my first post on this thread. I am having a pinion/spur gear problem with my Slash. I know this is not enough information but the spur gear and pinion keep eating themselves up! They look like worn out Chinese stars after a day of running. I have tried every distance in a mesh. Very loose, very tight and all the spots in the middle. I use a 14 tooth pinion and the stock spur gear. i Have tried Steel Spur gears and it wears just as fast. I have tried to put washers on the motor mount to make sure the mount is as even as possible. I am going to try and post up some pictures here very soon. Any ideas?
This has probably happen over 20 times =( I am starting to wondering if something in my setup is defective or something.

wrong thread, you're not gonna get much love in here.

the 4x4 slash does tend to have center diff bearing issues, check that.

Farmer John respectfully suggests asking this question in a Slash thread.

Well, you probably should have asked this question in the slash 4x4 thread, but you need to get yourself some robinson racing absolute hardened pinions. If the pinion is not hardened it gets chewed up in a 32pitch setup.

As far as the T-BirdJunkie posts, technically, he is referring to ThunderBirdJunkie, atleast the posts I have seen, so, it could be a completely separate person and not third person

oh wow. sorry about that guys lol byeeeeeeeee

I purchased a used truck. The belt tunnel was deformed like the way you describe your truck was. I used a heat gun on the tunnel, I split the chassis into 3 sections for a rebuild. When it was all the way back together there was no more belt deflection. Honestly, if the zip tie is working there is no need to go any further.

So should I bind the transmitter/receiver first or calibrate esc/motor 1st? (new systems)

Certainly the trans/receiver First. Brain before brawn.

Since most ESCs take their "neutral" signal from the RX, it's highly likely that you won't be able to calibrate the ESC to the TX's signal until the TX and RX are bound and talking to each other!

you don't really have a choice but to bind the radio first.

Got ya, thanks fellas! my 1st build from the ground up (the b4.1 rtr was..well..RTR ) so don't want to mess this up.

FRONTI3R : check the front chassis mounts that thread through the chassis and have the nut on the bottom, I have seen that area strip or misalign and make the front of the truck look twisted.


T-Bird is good and helpful



Now that we have real sways is everyone still leaving the +2mm rear droop? I am thinking I don't need it anymore and would like less weight transfer rear to front, probably just need yellow front springs....

for some reason my belt is falling off? it was my first time driving the truck, i drove it for about 20 mins. straight at the track and the belt fell off about 3 times my tensioners are tightened all the way. and my belt cover is pretty loose.

When you have the belt that tight (all the way as you said). It will put too much load on the puley and make the belt fall off in the front. (my first had experience). I would suggest you set it to factory specs like it shows in the book. Maybe have it one notch tighter.

Check:
1) When you have the front belt cover off and turn the wheels at the same time... Does the belt seem to rest in the middle of the puley or lean to the outside?
2) Belt cover straight? If not try to figure out why.
3) Front tension Pulley installed backwards? (I did this by error and had your same issue)