I've been venting the actual tire as well as the rims. I've run the DE rims that don't come with a vent hole, so I just reamed the same size hole as the stock rims into the DE rims.

I tape up the two large holes in the stock wheels and vent the tires like 1/8 scale, otherwise dirt chunks accumulate!!

And if you REALLY want it to work properly, let it cure for 24 hours. At least, according to Loctite, that's the time frame that the blue stuff needs.

That's a bit arrogant, don't you think? The dogbone bending MIGHT be due to that...or it might be due to some other thigns... though I do agree, it COULD be the whole binding on drive cup issue...

We thought the same thing when he built his... we pushed it across the desk and rather than having wheels that rolled, the whole thing just slid... after tearing apart half the truck, we saw a pin sticking out beside the bearing in the rear axle carrier...

Loctite them! You don't take them off that often!

Always vent your tires!
On mine, I use one solid piece of electrical tape around the wheel to cover the two oversized holes on the inside and keep the wheel mostly in balance, then I cut two 1/8th" holes on opposite sides of the tire, right in the middle of the tread. Glue the inside bead to the rim, glue the sidewall to the rim, glue the outside bead to the rim, then put a small squirt of glue in each of the 30 odd little holes. Seems to work great for me!

Actually, I've taken it off 2-3 times already due to bent CVA shaft. All fronts thou, so I'd loctite the rears from now on.

Anybody have trouble with the shock body inside is rough and piston does not move smoothly

Yep, Piston has some mold flashing on it. A little bit of 600 grit sand paper smoothed it out.

I think I'm psychic because I'm 100% positive that SOMEONE is going to plug the TrackStar O-rings....


Seriously though...I had 1 of my X-rings malformed...either because of abuse on my side (not likely as I noticed the issue before the truck hit any jump bigger than a piece of pegboard attached to a 2x4....) or because it came that way (manufacturing defect or assembly error by an 8-year-old in China....)

check that your X-rings are OK....if they are, get some Trackstar O-rings... if one or more are malformed, contact AE first....since I have rebuilt my shocks with all good o-rings, my shocks are pretty smooth....sooner or later I'm going to break down and get the trackstar o-rings just because I want to see the difference between them and a full set of properly formed X-rings....

Just a thought, and I'm sure someone else has thought of it as well, but has anyone tried the shorty packs in the truck yet? I've heard of the saddle pack setup, but I think if you mounted the shorty pack directly under the belt housing in front of the rear brace, installed the receiver on the left and esc on the right, the truck may be well balanced. I think I will give this a shot......

Running 550's I don't think you will have the run time with that pack. You could make it work with a 540 I bet.

I was thinking about trying a shorty pack. I think it should be fine for a race but hopefully enough mah to power a 4 pole 540.

had a good day at the track today. I went to a 60t spur and 15t 5mm pinion with adapter. No issues with dogbones/spur gear/pinion/ or slipper. Truck ran great. There were 3 sc10 4x4s there. All running castle 1410s and mine was the fastest out there. I spent a lot of time driving my losi eight e 2.0 and have to say I love my SC10 4x4 more then my 1/8 scale buggy.

What was the track layout and what were your temps?

Did I read that right? Is he using the 32p gears on a 540? Is there any advantage to that over the 48p?

I think the 32p are thicker less prone to strip. The 48 I hear are smother quieter but dont quote me on this.

I don't know why he would choose 32 over 64 other than for durability.