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Old 07-18-2011 | 10:37 AM
  #4801  
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Originally Posted by umm winning
i feel RETARTED now lol
No biggie, i feel retarded all the time
Got my swaybars over the weekend, yea!!
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Old 07-18-2011 | 12:00 PM
  #4802  
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Hey guys, I'm stuck here at work an need to order some batteries. i need to know the maximum thickness of battery that will fit..can somebody take a measurement from the floor of the chassis to the bottom of the belt cover?

I'm tinkering with the saddle pack idea and want the maximum mah rating,
so thickness is the key!!
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Old 07-18-2011 | 12:20 PM
  #4803  
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1-5/16"
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Old 07-18-2011 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Silver04RS
Dialed!
What type of track are you running this configuration?
I would guess high bite clay from looking at the tires. I'm considering this mod but don't know how it would work on a low bite track like I run on.
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Old 07-18-2011 | 03:54 PM
  #4805  
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Originally Posted by Mac The Knife
1-5/16"
You're the man!! Thanks!

p.s., I'm lovin the slipper basket
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Old 07-18-2011 | 03:58 PM
  #4806  
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Originally Posted by FRONTI3R
Mine started to do that this weekend too. Belt was half off on the front.

I pin pointed the issue to the bearing on the front belt tensioner cam adjuster (Bearing 4x8x3mm #31402). It looks like the bearing is worn and therefore the pulley can lean side to side and let the belt fall off from using the brakes.

I'm going to replace the bearing and see if that fixes it... for now all I did is make sure it's tight and put a bit of black greace on the bearing... it worked for another two packs till the end... it started to pull off again because the truck didn't want to move... I put it in reverse and it poped the belt back in to place I believe, I continued to drive it.
Deff. going to replace that bearing this week.
Thanks I may just go ahead and replace the whole assembly, hopefully it solves the problem. i was so frustrated I was about to put up the truck for sale LOL
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Old 07-18-2011 | 04:05 PM
  #4807  
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Default first real race day

i finally had my first real race day with the sc10 4x4 and it was on rails for the 3rnds of qualifying.... the main is another story.
my set-up is very similar to everyone elses except i am still waiting for the rear sway bars to come back in stock at any online store.
i only have bowfighters and they are the cats pyjamas when the track is wet or even mostly wet but when the track dried out i was traction rollling all over the place. i had tq'd by about 20 seconds and in the main i was struggling to keep it on its wheels and my battery dumped on the last lap about 50ft from the start/finish, while i was in the lead(i retook it on the last lap) sorry for the story book but what tires work in the dry? im thinking the snipers but dont have any experience with them at all.


thanks
anthony
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Old 07-18-2011 | 04:40 PM
  #4808  
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rears are in stock at gshobby.com, I got an email earlier confirming.
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Old 07-18-2011 | 04:49 PM
  #4809  
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We have fronts and rears on the way!
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Old 07-18-2011 | 05:41 PM
  #4810  
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Originally Posted by qwkpony
What type of track are you running this configuration?
I would guess high bite clay from looking at the tires. I'm considering this mod but don't know how it would work on a low bite track like I run on.
I primarily run on high bite dry clay and wet clay... but yesterday I ran on a loose outdoor track with a lot of fluff oer hard pack using a step pin and my car was dialed.

I ended up running with teh 1/8th gas cars because there was no competition from any other SCs out there. This setup is super balanced and is teh way to go if you can afford saddle packs

I have a thread going on here with some more shots, details, and reviews

-Travis
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Old 07-18-2011 | 05:54 PM
  #4811  
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Anyone try a castle 2 pole 5700 or 6900 in this truck? I'm running the 3800 4 pole in this but don't feel it's required for where I run and adds a little to much off throttle drag to run the clicker loose. I'm going to try it this Friday. The truck is so light I think it would rail. My buddy runs the 5700 in his ofna with good results.
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Old 07-18-2011 | 07:25 PM
  #4812  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Thanks I may just go ahead and replace the whole assembly, hopefully it solves the problem. i was so frustrated I was about to put up the truck for sale LOL
I was advised to do the same thing. Worked for 3 races (15 minutes total) then off it went again. Save your money. But do whatever you want to do. Just my experience.
Dont get me wrong. My truck handles excellent. Of the 3 heats I finished 1st in two and 2nd in one. TQ for the A. I wouldnt have spilled so much money chasing this problem if it handled bad. But it didnt last. I know I wont get any of the money spent back when I sell it.
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Old 07-18-2011 | 07:45 PM
  #4813  
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Lorider, snipers or gridirons work great on a dry hardpacked surface with a little dust or loam.
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Old 07-18-2011 | 08:01 PM
  #4814  
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Default battery question

Hi all, sorry for the dumb question if it is one...

What does 2s2p mean?

My understanding is that batteries need to be 2s for racing... I'm only running club events (my ability definitely won't let me go any further than this!). Running a Tekin sc4x 4.5t, HW esc, looking for something that will hold up.

Thanks
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Old 07-18-2011 | 08:10 PM
  #4815  
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Originally Posted by mrjeremyaaron
Hi all, sorry for the dumb question if it is one...

What does 2s2p mean?

My understanding is that batteries need to be 2s for racing... I'm only running club events (my ability definitely won't let me go any further than this!). Running a Tekin sc4x 4.5t, HW esc, looking for something that will hold up.

Thanks
2s2p means that the lipo has 4 cells total. 2 cells are wired in series "s" to get the proper voltage while maintaining the same capacity rating (amp hours). Where the other two cells are wired in parallel doubling the capacity (amp hours) of the battery while maintaining the voltage of one of the individual batteries. Basically means you have 2 cells that are 2500mah wired into parallel to make a 5000mah then 2 cells that are 3.7v will become 7.4v when wired in series. thats how you get a 7.4v 5000mah lipo.
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