B44.1 Thread
#406
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,167
From: Southern California
So, what are the hot saddle batteries these days? I'm having a hard time locating many options, especially for ones that come with built-in wires and a Dean's connector. I wish I could get some with at least the same specs as the 5300mAh/65c Thunder Power battery that I run in my other car... The best I've seen are 5200mAh/60c Losi and Reedy packs.
#407
I must admit, I am not as diligent as I ought to be with my shock maintenance. However, as my skills as a racer are increasing, I am getting more in tune with my vehicles doing or not doing what they ought to. I noticed my B44 not handling as well as last winter so I decided to do some maintenance and I am glad I did. The shocks were slightly low in 3 of them and all but one was pretty dirty. I cleaned them out and refilled them. I will have to do a rebuild after I get some o-rings. I also found that my cambers were not all set exactly equal.
So the question I have is, how often do most of you AE owners rebuild or at least refill your shocks? I still have the V1 shocks.
So the question I have is, how often do most of you AE owners rebuild or at least refill your shocks? I still have the V1 shocks.
#409
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 13
Hi
I am on page 4 step 2 Front and Rear diff build. I have 2 small pieces (white) that are not in the instructions. It looks like the 6 thrust balls fit on them and have the thrust washers on each side. Has anyone else seen this and what is the the fix?
thanks
I am on page 4 step 2 Front and Rear diff build. I have 2 small pieces (white) that are not in the instructions. It looks like the 6 thrust balls fit on them and have the thrust washers on each side. Has anyone else seen this and what is the the fix?
thanks
#410
I believe those are the thrust bearing dust covers. They are used with the T4/B4 diffs but not the B44.
#411
I must admit, I am not as diligent as I ought to be with my shock maintenance. However, as my skills as a racer are increasing, I am getting more in tune with my vehicles doing or not doing what they ought to. I noticed my B44 not handling as well as last winter so I decided to do some maintenance and I am glad I did. The shocks were slightly low in 3 of them and all but one was pretty dirty. I cleaned them out and refilled them. I will have to do a rebuild after I get some o-rings. I also found that my cambers were not all set exactly equal.
So the question I have is, how often do most of you AE owners rebuild or at least refill your shocks? I still have the V1 shocks.
So the question I have is, how often do most of you AE owners rebuild or at least refill your shocks? I still have the V1 shocks.
#412
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 4
I'm a complete noob and I've just started building my new B44.1.
I've just finished the front and rear gearbox. I then just noticed it says to only use 1 drop of lube on the gears. What's the issue if I've used too much? Should I pull them apart and wipe them down??
I've just finished the front and rear gearbox. I then just noticed it says to only use 1 drop of lube on the gears. What's the issue if I've used too much? Should I pull them apart and wipe them down??
#413
Figured I would share, used to race road course (Open Mod Sedan) for years.
Just switched to Off-Road and it's a ton of fun!
here are some pics of my rig, just running the 13.5 for now, will bump to a mod once I get it set-up to my style.
PICS EDITED
Just switched to Off-Road and it's a ton of fun!
here are some pics of my rig, just running the 13.5 for now, will bump to a mod once I get it set-up to my style.
PICS EDITED
Last edited by DesJardins; 09-12-2011 at 08:54 PM.
#414
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 3,301
From: Conducting aggressive board meetings at my local track
Here's a little tech tip. Rotate your Tekin ESC around 180 degrees and remove the shrink wrap from the solder posts. You're most likely going to need longer motor wires. On the Tekin ESCs, the solder posts are a heat sink. Getting them exposed to more air will keep ESC temps down. Especially when you start running mod.
#415
Looking good. Nothing like a clean new car!
Here's a little tech tip. Rotate your Tekin ESC around 180 degrees and remove the shrink wrap from the solder posts. You're most likely going to need longer motor wires. On the Tekin ESCs, the solder posts are a heat sink. Getting them exposed to more air will keep ESC temps down. Especially when you start running mod.
Here's a little tech tip. Rotate your Tekin ESC around 180 degrees and remove the shrink wrap from the solder posts. You're most likely going to need longer motor wires. On the Tekin ESCs, the solder posts are a heat sink. Getting them exposed to more air will keep ESC temps down. Especially when you start running mod.:thumbup:
Thanks!
Jon
#416
[QUOTE=DesJardins;9399254]Figured I would share, used to race road course (Open Mod Sedan) for years.
Just switched to Off-Road and it's a ton of fun!
here are some pics of my rig, just running the 13.5 for now, will bump to a mod once I get it set-up to my style.
Nice job with the install. Very clean! I double what the previous poster said about the heat shrink. I love a clean B44! Thanks for sharing.
Just switched to Off-Road and it's a ton of fun!
here are some pics of my rig, just running the 13.5 for now, will bump to a mod once I get it set-up to my style.
Nice job with the install. Very clean! I double what the previous poster said about the heat shrink. I love a clean B44! Thanks for sharing.
#417
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 2,167
From: Southern California
Looking good. Nothing like a clean new car!
Here's a little tech tip. Rotate your Tekin ESC around 180 degrees and remove the shrink wrap from the solder posts. You're most likely going to need longer motor wires. On the Tekin ESCs, the solder posts are a heat sink. Getting them exposed to more air will keep ESC temps down. Especially when you start running mod.
Here's a little tech tip. Rotate your Tekin ESC around 180 degrees and remove the shrink wrap from the solder posts. You're most likely going to need longer motor wires. On the Tekin ESCs, the solder posts are a heat sink. Getting them exposed to more air will keep ESC temps down. Especially when you start running mod.
#418
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 19
First time poster here, so go easy on me .. 
Bought a B44 roller that I figured I could fit my Losi Strike servo/rx into, but I'm looking for a good ESC/motor combo. Been searching for it in various forums, but it seems like recommendations are a bit outdated.
Anyway, the Novak GTB2 with a Ballistic 7,5T seems popular, is it still a competative alternative, or has there been a release that just eclipses all the competition?
I'm looking to get into racing, and my local track is fairly small. Some dirt, artificial grass and wood fiber surface - one long stretch (aprx. 50 ft). No bashing, no tarmac.
I appreciate all help, and sorry if I break any unwritten rules by asking these questions..

Bought a B44 roller that I figured I could fit my Losi Strike servo/rx into, but I'm looking for a good ESC/motor combo. Been searching for it in various forums, but it seems like recommendations are a bit outdated.
Anyway, the Novak GTB2 with a Ballistic 7,5T seems popular, is it still a competative alternative, or has there been a release that just eclipses all the competition?
I'm looking to get into racing, and my local track is fairly small. Some dirt, artificial grass and wood fiber surface - one long stretch (aprx. 50 ft). No bashing, no tarmac.
I appreciate all help, and sorry if I break any unwritten rules by asking these questions..
#419
First time poster here, so go easy on me .. 
Bought a B44 roller that I figured I could fit my Losi Strike servo/rx into, but I'm looking for a good ESC/motor combo. Been searching for it in various forums, but it seems like recommendations are a bit outdated.
Anyway, the Novak GTB2 with a Ballistic 7,5T seems popular, is it still a competative alternative, or has there been a release that just eclipses all the competition?
I'm looking to get into racing, and my local track is fairly small. Some dirt, artificial grass and wood fiber surface - one long stretch (aprx. 50 ft). No bashing, no tarmac.
I appreciate all help, and sorry if I break any unwritten rules by asking these questions..

Bought a B44 roller that I figured I could fit my Losi Strike servo/rx into, but I'm looking for a good ESC/motor combo. Been searching for it in various forums, but it seems like recommendations are a bit outdated.
Anyway, the Novak GTB2 with a Ballistic 7,5T seems popular, is it still a competative alternative, or has there been a release that just eclipses all the competition?
I'm looking to get into racing, and my local track is fairly small. Some dirt, artificial grass and wood fiber surface - one long stretch (aprx. 50 ft). No bashing, no tarmac.
I appreciate all help, and sorry if I break any unwritten rules by asking these questions..
#420
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 19
For that size track I would go with a 8.5 to 10.5. Much easier to control and a little less wear on the drivetrain. For the price the GTB2 ecs/motor combo would be a great choice. I might try and find a nice used RS pro because they are very versatile and have a small footprint.
So GTB 2 w/Ballistic 8.5t combo should be good? (Sorry for no link, they won't allow me to paste one until I've posted a certain number of posts..)
What pinion would be good for that setup?
And is the rs-pro a Tekin motor?



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