thats weird. I called ae yesturday because I have my diff outdrives are wobbling. I called normal bussiness hours and talked to a don or dan. told him my story and he said chris handeled the 4x4 and he was on lunch for another 10 min. so I called back 30 min later at extention 2115 and talked to chris for 3 minutes. my new diffs will be in the mail as soon as they become available. could be next week, or 3 months but talked to a human the first try.

....................

Finally finished... Not the best weather for photography today but I got some pictures anyway. The body is a Pro-Line Flow-Tek. Fits nicely on the 4x4 chassis. Haven't opened up all vents yet, just the big one on the hood. Seems like a dremel is the right tool for the job.

I will use the Castle SCT combo geared 62/15 and see how it works. I put the fan on the ESC instead of the motor. The servo is a Team Orion VDS-1308 and the radio is a Sanwa MT-4 with the RX-451R receiver. Tires are Pro-Line Caliber SC 2.0 on DE Racing wheels for the Losi SCTE (nice fit). No upgrades besides the wheel nuts which are Traxxas serrated ones.

Hopefully I will have the maiden drive tomorrow.

Just talked to a guy at AE. 4x4's wont ship till after inventory... and the wait continues.

We stock SC-10 4x4 parts to support our local racers, but they are available on our www.racemugen.com website to anyone, and we do have front and rear sway bars on the way, should be in Friday or Monday at the latest.

I cant wait to race mine Sunday if weather permits, danged rain

I like that idea of electrical taping the wires... I might substitute 2 extra wide zip ties, but I was looking at my truck this morning thinking about how I could tidy it up some. That looks super clean.

Thanks for the inspiration!

For the people with the Tekno alum axle hexes where do you put the shims? In between the rear hub and the hex?

i just stacked two shims on the axle, install pin, install hex, lock it down...

personally i would like about .25mm more of shimming, but what is included in the kit does the job fine..

Okay thanks!

lovin mine!!

Loosened the screws and its still sticking slightly, but now it clicks a little as well. Any other suggestions?

So I'm new to this whole "run in dirt" thing and just picked up a SC10 4x4 for Father's Day. Naturally I got it put together and THEN read how the diffs aren't filled properly and the issues with the shocks.

So while rebuilding the shocks is no big deal I was wondering if I have to tear apart this whole truck to get to the differentials? It sure looks like I do. Anyone with any tips that may prevent me from rebuilding everything?

Velcro works even better and is reusable.

remove bumper(s), remove belt cover(s), remove belts/pulleys, remove shock tower(s)... after that, you should be able to just undo the gearboxes...chassis, chassis braces and arms all stay intact, if i remember correctly..

I have only retaken apart the front diff to change fluid. I must admit it looked a lot worse than it was. The whole procedure took about an hour, and I bet I could do it way faster next time. You have to take clicker off, remove front bumper, front shock tower, and the gearbox screws along with other screws. The steering is unaffected. As for the rear, I have yet to do this, but doesn't look so bad....