5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-18-2011 | 06:34 PM
#3361
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 19
From: mi
I tried my tekin 7.5 540 motor with a 13mm rotor in it today and holy cow, I'm sticking with this combo. Same lowend torque as my LRP 5.5 550 motor, more top end, and ran cooler. Hottest it got was 145 all day long and the battery was only taking back in between 1600 and 1700 mah after a 6 minute run on our indoor track.
06-18-2011 | 06:39 PM
#3362
18/93 with 4 deg of motor timing. I was expecting it to run hot as well but it never got over 145-150 deg.
06-18-2011 | 06:46 PM
#3363
I was wondering are you running with clicker on or off?
I don't know if its just me but it seems like my motor ran hotter with clicker off, probably around 10-15 degrees more then with clicker on......
06-18-2011 | 07:29 PM
#3365
Heres your problem with your slipper.
#1 you put the washer under the wrong end of the spring.
Take your slipper spring off and look at the shaft. You will see the shaft
has a cone tapper just before the threads. Looking at this you will see the
spring retainer bottoms out against the cone before you can get max
tension against the slipper. So putting it at the wrong end as you did makes
the problem worse. The washer needs to be on the aluminum slipper plate
not the nut end.
So what I did was go to Ace Hardware in their nut and bolt department
they have a chrome & black chrome nut/bolt/washer section. There is a
chrome & black chrome washer there that fits the outer slipper hub
perfectly for shimming the spring. Take your outer slipper hub with you
because thanks to the chroming prosess some fit better then others.
Now you will keep your slipper spring free to put max tension against the
slipper pads instead of making the problem worse like you did by putting
the washer under the nut.
This works great, I have fixed many SC10 4x4 slippers at the tracks I race
at this way. At the track I don't have these washers with me but a quick
fix at the track is to take the blue aluminum servo arm retainer that most
people have laying around in their tool box and use that till you can get to
Ace Hardware to get the correct fitting washer.
Good luck, I hope this helps till AE gets this fixed along with everything else
they need to fix on the SC10 4x4....
BTW: AE if your listening, you need to make a longer & stronger slipper
spring for the SC10 4x4 (I'm sure you know this already though")
#1 you put the washer under the wrong end of the spring.
Take your slipper spring off and look at the shaft. You will see the shaft
has a cone tapper just before the threads. Looking at this you will see the
spring retainer bottoms out against the cone before you can get max
tension against the slipper. So putting it at the wrong end as you did makes
the problem worse. The washer needs to be on the aluminum slipper plate
not the nut end.
So what I did was go to Ace Hardware in their nut and bolt department
they have a chrome & black chrome nut/bolt/washer section. There is a
chrome & black chrome washer there that fits the outer slipper hub
perfectly for shimming the spring. Take your outer slipper hub with you
because thanks to the chroming prosess some fit better then others.
Now you will keep your slipper spring free to put max tension against the
slipper pads instead of making the problem worse like you did by putting
the washer under the nut.
This works great, I have fixed many SC10 4x4 slippers at the tracks I race
at this way. At the track I don't have these washers with me but a quick
fix at the track is to take the blue aluminum servo arm retainer that most
people have laying around in their tool box and use that till you can get to
Ace Hardware to get the correct fitting washer.
Good luck, I hope this helps till AE gets this fixed along with everything else
they need to fix on the SC10 4x4....
BTW: AE if your listening, you need to make a longer & stronger slipper
spring for the SC10 4x4 (I'm sure you know this already though")
06-18-2011 | 08:04 PM
#3367
06-18-2011 | 08:50 PM
#3368
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 168
What size washer(s) did u use?? And, How many?
I will run mine Monday, before I know for sure if I need it. So, if it's slipping too much I will need it?? I would like to just know the measurements the thrust spacer is suppose to be so i can know if I need washers or not.
But, basically i need to know how thick i need to make the thrust spacer/washers??
Fast, wrote 2.90mm, so i guess that is how thick it's suppose to be.?.
THX
06-18-2011 | 09:03 PM
#3369
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
OK, so it seems something is definitely wrong with ThunderbirdJunkie's SC10 4 wheeler.
Battery just took 38xx mah, charging after last night's main. That being said, there was about 5 minutes of screwing around afterwards, but 12 minutes to put that back in a 5000mah battery, while when the truck was fairly new it ran 23 minutes and was cool as a cucumber.
It came off the track with the 1410 at 160 (acceptable, but not ideal considering the 15/62 gearing) and the speedo (Mamba Max) was a smoldering 209 after the first 5 minute heat. Since it got cooler as the night went on, it wasn't so bad later, but the speedo was still in the 180s and the motor in the mid 150s.
Belt's loose, when there's no pinion on it the truck rolls nice and smooth...ThunderbirdJunkie is ripping his hair out trying to figure this out.
Battery just took 38xx mah, charging after last night's main. That being said, there was about 5 minutes of screwing around afterwards, but 12 minutes to put that back in a 5000mah battery, while when the truck was fairly new it ran 23 minutes and was cool as a cucumber.
It came off the track with the 1410 at 160 (acceptable, but not ideal considering the 15/62 gearing) and the speedo (Mamba Max) was a smoldering 209 after the first 5 minute heat. Since it got cooler as the night went on, it wasn't so bad later, but the speedo was still in the 180s and the motor in the mid 150s.
Belt's loose, when there's no pinion on it the truck rolls nice and smooth...ThunderbirdJunkie is ripping his hair out trying to figure this out.
06-18-2011 | 09:12 PM
#3370
OK, so it seems something is definitely wrong with ThunderbirdJunkie's SC10 4 wheeler.
Battery just took 38xx mah, charging after last night's main. That being said, there was about 5 minutes of screwing around afterwards, but 12 minutes to put that back in a 5000mah battery, while when the truck was fairly new it ran 23 minutes and was cool as a cucumber.
It came off the track with the 1410 at 160 (acceptable, but not ideal considering the 15/62 gearing) and the speedo (Mamba Max) was a smoldering 209 after the first 5 minute heat. Since it got cooler as the night went on, it wasn't so bad later, but the speedo was still in the 180s and the motor in the mid 150s.
Belt's loose, when there's no pinion on it the truck rolls nice and smooth...ThunderbirdJunkie is ripping his hair out trying to figure this out.
Battery just took 38xx mah, charging after last night's main. That being said, there was about 5 minutes of screwing around afterwards, but 12 minutes to put that back in a 5000mah battery, while when the truck was fairly new it ran 23 minutes and was cool as a cucumber.
It came off the track with the 1410 at 160 (acceptable, but not ideal considering the 15/62 gearing) and the speedo (Mamba Max) was a smoldering 209 after the first 5 minute heat. Since it got cooler as the night went on, it wasn't so bad later, but the speedo was still in the 180s and the motor in the mid 150s.
Belt's loose, when there's no pinion on it the truck rolls nice and smooth...ThunderbirdJunkie is ripping his hair out trying to figure this out.
06-18-2011 | 09:29 PM
#3371
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 19
From: mi
I'm at a loss here. I'm running 17/93 with no motor timing and a tekin rs with no timing advance. been debating on switching to 550 for this very reason. (overheating) waiting on tekin 4-pole motor right now as I am not a cc fan. don't like run times with 550's and don't need any more power.....but its just too hot right now. drivetrain is free...no binding... any thoughts?
Last edited by seniorskywalker; 06-18-2011 at 10:46 PM.
06-18-2011 | 09:29 PM
#3372
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
06-18-2011 | 10:13 PM
#3374
Tech Regular
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 425
From: So Cal
06-18-2011 | 10:17 PM
#3375
Heard it from tekno himself and am now confirming it(have a set in hand) the aluminum hex's part number tkr1654x are now coming with pins and shims so it looks like everything you need. GO TEKNO!