5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-15-2011 | 10:39 AM
#3241
Tech Master
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 1,480
From: Las Vegas, NV
For those who have their slippers adjusted and working correctly with a 4.5/550 motor. How tight are you having to run it to get it to not slip? I'm having to lock it down and even put a very thin washer under the slipper nut to get that extra little clamping power. I've got a field of cars with V2 slipper springs so I don't think that's the problem. My truck is working, I just don't like having no adjustment left on the slipper. Other brands of trucks seem to "squirt" from corner to corner on the tight sections and this thing just seems a little lazy. Honestly it's just as fast because it's smoother but it just doesn't have that "snap" to make the quick pass....
med. grip track, geared 13/62, clicker locked, running front overdrive pulley,
HD pad on the rear, stock pad for the front..
~for those who, like me, didn't think this truck turned as good as they wanted, the front overdrive pulley makes a big difference.
med. grip track, geared 13/62, clicker locked, running front overdrive pulley,
HD pad on the rear, stock pad for the front..
~for those who, like me, didn't think this truck turned as good as they wanted, the front overdrive pulley makes a big difference.
06-15-2011 | 10:56 AM
#3242
It's always a possibility that overfilling the diffs can cause leakage, but there are other things that can cause it. The oring could be bad, installed incorrectly, there might not be black grease on the outdrive, etc. One of the biggest questions I have for people who are saying their diffs are leaky, is how long are you waiting between diff rebuilds? If you are waiting a month, then yeah they are gonna leak. If it is only one race night, then something isn't right.
You actually can buy the orings separately, along with the diff gasket. The part number is 9831, from the SC10 2wd kit.
I would recommend taking your diffs apart and put some black grease on the outdrive/oring and see what that does. If you still have problems, email me and I will see what I can do for you.
You actually can buy the orings separately, along with the diff gasket. The part number is 9831, from the SC10 2wd kit.
I would recommend taking your diffs apart and put some black grease on the outdrive/oring and see what that does. If you still have problems, email me and I will see what I can do for you.
I'm not getting more than one race day. then I'm rebuilding constantly and using up all my diff oils.
I'll give it one more shot with some black grease.
As far as the slipper goes. these cars don't snap around like a center diff car. I have high torque pads, vented disc, and small pinion on a big 550 motor and i have to sand slipper pads before my mains it slips so much. slipper nut is fully compressed. i want to pin the thing so bad.
06-15-2011 | 10:57 AM
#3243
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,143
From: Havasu AZ
I wish this sway bar issue was taken care of before the launch or sale of the truck, along with all the other things like shcks coming apart, parts not machined right, parts missing. And to boot, u cant get hardly anything for the truck, only a handful of things. I would have gladly payed alittle more to have everything taken care of p front. I love the truck so far, i just feel, and again, its my feeling, thats things could have been done different.
don't understand that but what probably happened was Losi put AE in a
bind and they released the SC10 4x4 a bit to early.
Of course Losi was pushing to beat AE and have the same problems AE
does LOL" go figure
Both trucks will be great once the rush to release pains are grown out of.
I have both the Losi & the AE and both Losi & AE have been very helpful
with problems I've had.
As for the sway bars anyone with even the slightest mechanical skills can
make their own in just a few minutes so that is really a non issue IMO.
Enjoy
06-15-2011 | 11:12 AM
#3244
Tech Addict
iTrader: (27)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 621
AE says it took 2 1/2 years to build this truck (26 year old design) so I
don't understand that but what probably happened was Losi put AE in a
bind and they released the SC10 4x4 a bit to early.
Of course Losi was pushing to beat AE and have the same problems AE
does LOL" go figure
Both trucks will be great once the rush to release pains are grown out of.
I have both the Losi & the AE and both Losi & AE have been very helpful
with problems I've had.
As for the sway bars anyone with even the slightest mechanical skills can
make their own in just a few minutes so that is really a non issue IMO.
Enjoy
don't understand that but what probably happened was Losi put AE in a
bind and they released the SC10 4x4 a bit to early.
Of course Losi was pushing to beat AE and have the same problems AE
does LOL" go figure
Both trucks will be great once the rush to release pains are grown out of.
I have both the Losi & the AE and both Losi & AE have been very helpful
with problems I've had.
As for the sway bars anyone with even the slightest mechanical skills can
make their own in just a few minutes so that is really a non issue IMO.
Enjoy
If u buy a sports car and the dealer tell u, " hey, we dont have the sway bars yet, but if u want, go out and build a set for your self, or run it until we can get them out into the main stream." would that go over ok? Im beating a dead hourse, i know, but it just bothers me when i hear someone say, 'build it yourself'...it just wasnt right how they did it...but again, its to late now and like u said, once all the rush is over , all should be fine
06-15-2011 | 11:16 AM
#3245
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
Maybe ThunderbirdJunkie sees it different from you guys, but these are the same teething issues when a new platform comes out.
Don't worry, before too long we'll have an enterprising individual that will come up with an actual HOW of setting this truck up, rather than band-aiding it with swaybars and play-dough-thick diff oil in the front.
Remember that this truck is unlike anything else currently on the market, and therefore a lot of what you know goes out the window.
Don't worry, before too long we'll have an enterprising individual that will come up with an actual HOW of setting this truck up, rather than band-aiding it with swaybars and play-dough-thick diff oil in the front.
Remember that this truck is unlike anything else currently on the market, and therefore a lot of what you know goes out the window.
06-15-2011 | 11:27 AM
#3247
I can't believe people are comparing AE's possible issues to the Great Losi SCTE Depression of 2011...
The diff flub / parts shortage on the SCTE was so much worse. If all I had to do was buy a extra bottle or two of diff fluid I would of been thrilled. But chewing threw over $100 of over priced ebay and aftermarket diff parts to keep the SCTE in my spring series and then being sidelined any way by a $3 a-arm shortage is far worse than having to re fill diffs.
As for the sway bars... be big boys and don't drive the truck like a a$$ hat and you won't need them. I stress the need... Yes they may make the truck better, but you can treat this sport like a hobby... yes a hobby and build them yourself, or wait patiently for AE to release them.
Sorry to be rude, but honestly people whining about AE not doing their R&D or rushing on this truck is completely absurd. Honestly who hasn't had a truck that spewed diff fluid after a few races.
The diff flub / parts shortage on the SCTE was so much worse. If all I had to do was buy a extra bottle or two of diff fluid I would of been thrilled. But chewing threw over $100 of over priced ebay and aftermarket diff parts to keep the SCTE in my spring series and then being sidelined any way by a $3 a-arm shortage is far worse than having to re fill diffs.
As for the sway bars... be big boys and don't drive the truck like a a$$ hat and you won't need them. I stress the need... Yes they may make the truck better, but you can treat this sport like a hobby... yes a hobby and build them yourself, or wait patiently for AE to release them.
Sorry to be rude, but honestly people whining about AE not doing their R&D or rushing on this truck is completely absurd. Honestly who hasn't had a truck that spewed diff fluid after a few races.
Last edited by cpt_RedBeard; 06-15-2011 at 11:47 AM.
06-15-2011 | 11:27 AM
#3248
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,143
From: Havasu AZ
For those who have their slippers adjusted and working correctly with a 4.5/550 motor. How tight are you having to run it to get it to not slip? I'm having to lock it down and even put a very thin washer under the slipper nut to get that extra little clamping power. I've got a field of cars with V2 slipper springs so I don't think that's the problem. My truck is working, I just don't like having no adjustment left on the slipper. Other brands of trucks seem to "squirt" from corner to corner on the tight sections and this thing just seems a little lazy. Honestly it's just as fast because it's smoother but it just doesn't have that "snap" to make the quick pass....
med. grip track, geared 13/62, clicker locked, running front overdrive pulley,
HD pad on the rear, stock pad for the front..
~for those who, like me, didn't think this truck turned as good as they wanted, the front overdrive pulley makes a big difference.
med. grip track, geared 13/62, clicker locked, running front overdrive pulley,
HD pad on the rear, stock pad for the front..
~for those who, like me, didn't think this truck turned as good as they wanted, the front overdrive pulley makes a big difference.
Heres your problem with your slipper.
#1 you put the washer under the wrong end of the spring.
Take your slipper spring off and look at the shaft. You will see the shaft
has a cone tapper just before the threads. Looking at this you will see the
spring retainer bottoms out against the cone before you can get max
tension against the slipper. So putting it at the wrong end as you did makes
the problem worse. The washer needs to be on the aluminum slipper plate
not the nut end.
So what I did was go to Ace Hardware in their nut and bolt department
they have a chrome & black chrome nut/bolt/washer section. There is a
chrome & black chrome washer there that fits the outer slipper hub
perfectly for shimming the spring. Take your outer slipper hub with you
because thanks to the chroming prosess some fit better then others.
Now you will keep your slipper spring free to put max tension against the
slipper pads instead of making the problem worse like you did by putting
the washer under the nut.
This works great, I have fixed many SC10 4x4 slippers at the tracks I race
at this way. At the track I don't have these washers with me but a quick
fix at the track is to take the blue aluminum servo arm retainer that most
people have laying around in their tool box and use that till you can get to
Ace Hardware to get the correct fitting washer.
Good luck, I hope this helps till AE gets this fixed along with everything else
they need to fix on the SC10 4x4....
BTW: AE if your listening, you need to make a longer & stronger slipper
spring for the SC10 4x4 (I'm sure you know this already though")
06-15-2011 | 11:28 AM
#3249
06-15-2011 | 11:29 AM
#3250
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
I can't believe people are event mentioning AE's possible issues to the Great Losi SCTE Depression of 2011...
The diff flub / parts shortage on the SCTE was so much worse. If all I had to do was buy a extra bottle or two of diff fluid I would of been thrilled. But chewing threw over $100 of over priced ebay and aftermarket diff parts to keep the SCTE in my spring series and then being sidelined any way by a $3 a-arm shortage is far worse than having to re fill diffs.
As for the sway bars... be big boys and don't drive the truck like a a$$ hat and you won't need them. I stress the need... Yes they may make the truck better, but you can treat this sport like a hobby... yes a hobby and build them yourself, or wait patiently for AE to release them.
Sorry to be rude, but honestly people whining about AE not doing their R&D or rushing on this truck is completely absurd. Honestly who hasn't had a truck that spewed diff fluid after a few races.
The diff flub / parts shortage on the SCTE was so much worse. If all I had to do was buy a extra bottle or two of diff fluid I would of been thrilled. But chewing threw over $100 of over priced ebay and aftermarket diff parts to keep the SCTE in my spring series and then being sidelined any way by a $3 a-arm shortage is far worse than having to re fill diffs.
As for the sway bars... be big boys and don't drive the truck like a a$$ hat and you won't need them. I stress the need... Yes they may make the truck better, but you can treat this sport like a hobby... yes a hobby and build them yourself, or wait patiently for AE to release them.
Sorry to be rude, but honestly people whining about AE not doing their R&D or rushing on this truck is completely absurd. Honestly who hasn't had a truck that spewed diff fluid after a few races.
06-15-2011 | 11:31 AM
#3251
....
As for the sway bars... be big boys and don't drive the truck like a a$$ hat and you won't need them. I stress the need... Yes they may make the truck better, but you can treat this sport like a hobby... yes a hobby and build them yourself, or wait patiently for AE to release them.
...
As for the sway bars... be big boys and don't drive the truck like a a$$ hat and you won't need them. I stress the need... Yes they may make the truck better, but you can treat this sport like a hobby... yes a hobby and build them yourself, or wait patiently for AE to release them.
...
yup. i enjoy this hobby.. went to the hobby store for my pieces, tinkered a while, now i have a couple different bars to help tune the handling.. woot woot woot!!!
will find out in a few hours..
06-15-2011 | 11:40 AM
#3252
06-15-2011 | 11:44 AM
#3254
06-15-2011 | 12:04 PM
#3255
Heres your problem with your slipper.
#1 you put the washer under the wrong end of the spring.
Take your slipper spring off and look at the shaft. You will see the shaft
has a cone tapper just before the threads. Looking at this you will see the
spring retainer bottoms out against the cone before you can get max
tension against the slipper. So putting it at the wrong end as you did makes
the problem worse. The washer needs to be on the aluminum slipper plate
not the nut end.
So what I did was go to Ace Hardware in their nut and bolt department
they have a chrome & black chrome nut/bolt/washer section. There is a
chrome & black chrome washer there that fits the outer slipper hub
perfectly for shimming the spring. Take your outer slipper hub with you
because thanks to the chroming prosess some fit better then others.
Now you will keep your slipper spring free to put max tension against the
slipper pads instead of making the problem worse like you did by putting
the washer under the nut.
This works great, I have fixed many SC10 4x4 slippers at the tracks I race
at this way. At the track I don't have these washers with me but a quick
fix at the track is to take the blue aluminum servo arm retainer that most
people have laying around in their tool box and use that till you can get to
Ace Hardware to get the correct fitting washer.
Good luck, I hope this helps till AE gets this fixed along with everything else
they need to fix on the SC10 4x4....
BTW: AE if your listening, you need to make a longer & stronger slipper
spring for the SC10 4x4 (I'm sure you know this already though")
#1 you put the washer under the wrong end of the spring.
Take your slipper spring off and look at the shaft. You will see the shaft
has a cone tapper just before the threads. Looking at this you will see the
spring retainer bottoms out against the cone before you can get max
tension against the slipper. So putting it at the wrong end as you did makes
the problem worse. The washer needs to be on the aluminum slipper plate
not the nut end.
So what I did was go to Ace Hardware in their nut and bolt department
they have a chrome & black chrome nut/bolt/washer section. There is a
chrome & black chrome washer there that fits the outer slipper hub
perfectly for shimming the spring. Take your outer slipper hub with you
because thanks to the chroming prosess some fit better then others.
Now you will keep your slipper spring free to put max tension against the
slipper pads instead of making the problem worse like you did by putting
the washer under the nut.
This works great, I have fixed many SC10 4x4 slippers at the tracks I race
at this way. At the track I don't have these washers with me but a quick
fix at the track is to take the blue aluminum servo arm retainer that most
people have laying around in their tool box and use that till you can get to
Ace Hardware to get the correct fitting washer.
Good luck, I hope this helps till AE gets this fixed along with everything else
they need to fix on the SC10 4x4....
BTW: AE if your listening, you need to make a longer & stronger slipper
spring for the SC10 4x4 (I'm sure you know this already though")
Adding a washer does nothing. if you add a .020 washer you will loose .020 on the nut side and end up with the same tension. a compressed spring is a compressed spring whether it has a washer at one end or not.. i even had a conversation with don @ AE about the spacer being machined wrong. i ordered some washers from mcmaster carr for spacer it out more and i get the same results. everything moves out on the transmission shaft but you still end up with the same tension. if i tightened nut to 3.5mm before then after added washer i can only tighten to 3.3.. but i still have the same weak tension that allows it to slip to much. the 550 motors tear up the slipper pads. /End