5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-15-2011 | 12:32 PM
#3256
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,143
From: Havasu AZ
Adding a washer does nothing. if you add a .020 washer you will loose .020 on the nut side and end up with the same tension. a compressed spring is a compressed spring whether it has a washer at one end or not.. i even had a conversation with don @ AE about the spacer being machined wrong. i ordered some washers from mcmaster carr for spacer it out more and i get the same results. everything moves out on the transmission shaft but you still end up with the same tension. if i tightened nut to 3.5mm before then after added washer i can only tighten to 3.3.. but i still have the same weak tension that allows it to slip to much. the 550 motors tear up the slipper pads. /End
I guess some people just read what they want to see in some posts"
You missed the part about the (spring retainer) (nut side) touchs the cone
shape tapper on the top shaft before you can get max tension on the
slipper disks.
Your way does the exact same thing as mine (if you bothered to read) but
and heres the big BUT" your way moves the belt out of line with the front
pulley (if I'm understanding you about moving everything over as you said).
Your way works (just puts the belts out of line) his way shim under nut
does not work (makes it worse) mine works and everything stays in line.
My way has been done on many SC10 4x4's and has worked on all of them.
If you still don't get it (OH" WELL") sorry bout that....
06-15-2011 | 12:38 PM
#3257
I bent one of my front cva bones yesterday ( ran into a parked car's tire)
I ended up buying the Factory team Shiny cva bones to replace them but was wondering if theyre any stronger than the stock black ones?
I ended up buying the Factory team Shiny cva bones to replace them but was wondering if theyre any stronger than the stock black ones?
06-15-2011 | 01:19 PM
#3258
Tech Addict
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 521
Just a heads up, I recommend everyone getting some extra spring cups for your shocks. I've had a couple crack and it's hard to notice until your pulling your shocks apart. Since they're "spoked" in lieu of a solid piece I they seem to crack at the edge where the spoke meets the ring if you will.
part # 91067
part # 91067
06-15-2011 | 01:50 PM
#3260
I did the same during my very first run. The servo saver is just too tight per factory spec build. I had to loosen it up a bit and added black grease to the servo saver mating surfaces. I dont know about any alum ones that will fit but my standard plastic one has been holding up very well after I fixed the servo saver.
06-15-2011 | 02:46 PM
#3263
I guess some people just read what they want to see in some posts"
You missed the part about the (spring retainer) (nut side) touchs the cone
shape tapper on the top shaft before you can get max tension on the
slipper disks.
Your way does the exact same thing as mine (if you bothered to read) but
and heres the big BUT" your way moves the belt out of line with the front
pulley (if I'm understanding you about moving everything over as you said).
Your way works (just puts the belts out of line) his way shim under nut
does not work (makes it worse) mine works and everything stays in line.
My way has been done on many SC10 4x4's and has worked on all of them.
If you still don't get it (OH" WELL") sorry bout that....
You missed the part about the (spring retainer) (nut side) touchs the cone
shape tapper on the top shaft before you can get max tension on the
slipper disks.
Your way does the exact same thing as mine (if you bothered to read) but
and heres the big BUT" your way moves the belt out of line with the front
pulley (if I'm understanding you about moving everything over as you said).
Your way works (just puts the belts out of line) his way shim under nut
does not work (makes it worse) mine works and everything stays in line.
My way has been done on many SC10 4x4's and has worked on all of them.
If you still don't get it (OH" WELL") sorry bout that....
You must have read my post but didn't bother to comprehend.
The spacers were machined wrong. so spacing it out just puts the belt alignment where AE intended it to be. Per Don @ AE.
And i never had a problem with my spring retainer hitting on the top shaft. my problem was my fully compressed spring isn't enough to keep it from slipping too much, even with ht pads and vented disc.
06-15-2011 | 03:03 PM
#3264
Tech Regular
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 363
From: Miami, Flooo-Rida
You must have read my post but didn't bother to comprehend.
The spacers were machined wrong. so spacing it out just puts the belt alignment where AE intended it to be. Per Don @ AE.
And i never had a problem with my spring retainer hitting on the top shaft. my problem was my fully compressed spring isn't enough to keep it from slipping too much, even with ht pads and vented disc.
The spacers were machined wrong. so spacing it out just puts the belt alignment where AE intended it to be. Per Don @ AE.
And i never had a problem with my spring retainer hitting on the top shaft. my problem was my fully compressed spring isn't enough to keep it from slipping too much, even with ht pads and vented disc.
"
06-15-2011 | 03:39 PM
#3265
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 362
From: GreatWhiteNorth
Slipper set-up
Ok guys, I'm new with the slipper thing....can someone point me or describe how to properly set this up on the sc10 4x4? Is there a basic bench test I can do, then take it out on the track to verify? i have it set-up as per manual, and don't really know if that is working.
06-15-2011 | 04:38 PM
#3267
