Just picked up this silver headed 5 port Go Engine that came new with a car I bought. Can anyone tell me the model #

it has a black case and says R21 on it




thanks

.21 5 port Gen 4-5 depends, could tell better if more angles photos, especialy of the carby.

With the extra writing and flame design on the head it is a Gen 5.5
This is the model before the GX Series, so it is now basically two models old.
Good strong motor. The Gen 5.5 came out with the improved crank design and stronger crank pin. Lots of bottom and mid range power.

Gee, I missed that Grizz, I need to get my eye checked... or maybe clean my computer screeen

there ya go phixd

just curious, you wouldn't be shootin blanks by any chance

Hi guys,

Just got a new GXII to replace my stock RTR motor, hopefully i can break it in soon!!

I have 2 questions:
- the collet that came with the kit seems to be tight and doesnt fit easily onto the crank. I pushed it on slightly (with some light force) using the flywheel but Im concerned it may scratch the crank if I push it all the way or if it needs adjusting for whatever reason its going to be impossible to remove. Is this normal?
- How many shims should I use for breaking in (will be using 25%)? Do I need to adjust the shims once the motor is broken in?

Thanks.

How is the orange Go clutch with long life carbon-coated shoes? Looking for a carbon-shoe clutch for my DM-1.. - something that won't mangle the clutch bell..

Hi,

The collets are a tight fit. If you look closely you will see a slit down the side. Use a small tipped flat blade screwdriver to prise open the slit in the collet when sliding it over the crank. You won't hurt the crank, it is made of hard stuff.

Don't worry about the shims. Just run it in and then race it as it came in the box.
You can add an extra .2mm shim for run-in, but they don't come in the box, so unless you have one lying around just keep it simple. It will be very tight for the first 8 or so tanks. Just take it slow and easy. Check out the run-in and tuning guide on our website for information on how to make the run-in easy on you and your motor, then how to tune it for racing once it's run in - about 12 - 15 tanks normally.

http://go-racing.vpweb.co.nz/Tech-Tips.html

Any problems just email me or post on here.

I have only used the GO shoes for running in motors, and they seem to last well, with little wear shown on the clutch bells.
The GO shoes have 1.0 springs designed to work with them. These seem ok. Harder later engaging springs will eat clutch bells with any alloy shoe due to the late hit.

I run an Ascendancy 4 shoe for racing, which is a brilliant clutch system that is very well suited to the power band of the GXII.
The shoes on the Ascendancy last for ages and ages if you use the matching Ascendancy vented bells.

I got the Ascendancy clutch to run in my DM1, but I have a special problem. Somebody in the DM1 thread said to get a Kyosho CB with Evolva pinions, which I did. The bell though is very thin: I think it would cover maybe half the Ascendancy clutch. So I'm looking for a more standard style clutch with carbon shoes. I don't need the bite of alu with a DM1 I don't think. And the Go clutch is cheap and pretty.. I just want something that won't chew up the bell.

Best get the Kyosho shoes etc that match the skinny bell you have.
The GO shoes and everything assembled on the orange GO flywheel will be about the same width as the Ascendancy, certainly not half the width like you are looking for.

Hello everyone, I won a GSII over the weekend at the AMS and was debating what to do with it. I was wondering if I could get some honest feedback before I break open the package. Performance, longevity, fuel milage, what pipes work best, and any issues to watch for. I know nothing about GO engines except everyone I knew that ran the early releases had problems. If I keep it, it will most likely be used for practice and back-up for my SS .21's. Thanks.

sell or trade it to me...LOL, no really

was this at AMS in michigan?? if so.....how did i miss this?

The GXII's are very sturdy and reliable, with great linear power, and lots of it.
The only reason people struggled with the earlier GO motors, was because they came out with a long tapered LSN style carb, and people simply couldn't get their heads around the tuning differences between this and a normal short needle LSN, so thay blamed the motors for their own tuning inadaquacies (I hope that doesn't come across the wrong way)

Times have changed, and people seem more up with the play now regarding the different needle options found on motors these days.

Pipe - the GO EFRA 2072 is the preferred pipe, but the GXII also likes the 053 pipe and the Sirio or Werks 2013.
Good run times. 10 min in buggy once fully run in is quite achievable.
No issues thus far since their release. The motors run strong and hold a tune all day.

If you don't want it, I am sure inferno or another happy GXII-5RHO user will snap it up in no time

This may sound baised because I race for GO Engines but run it in and try it... Go are making very nice engines these days and I guarantee you'll like it.

Everyone thats driven mine said they liked it and lots of guys down our way are running them now.