Okay. So running my 4x4, loving it.

Two questions:

1. I'm having to TORQUE down the slipper clutch to get it to work 'at all'. And by that I mean, I understand you have to warm up the pads before you really get them to stick to run well. But We're talking about some serious slip for daaaaays. What is going on? The pads are brand new, duh, and I replaced them with the thicker Sc10 non-factoryteam ones and they were great for a bit, then back to this. Anyone have a hint or something I'm missing?

2. I'm running the 1415 Castle, I was running in my Slash 4x4, and I modified the chassis to get full movement out of the motor mounts, and it fits great (now). I have tried:
48p: 93/26
48p: 93/31
32p: 63/20

And I have the motor set at high tune, and transmitter at 150% throttle and I barely have enough punch to get over our big jump.

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I'm a little hesitant to see this as a real problem because of the slipper cluth. If I can't get the punch around that sharp corner to the big jump I Chassis slap the relief jump, the answer to question two may be the answer to question 1. Any help would be appreciated! Experienced Driver, just kinda stumped, everything's smooth, tuned, and fantastic minus this!

YES !!! I don't race professionally or anything I just grass roots race with a bunch of buddy's on a private track so its a combination of racing and bashing and I persinally have took alot of really hard crashes and kartwheels and nose dives and just yesterday I got hit by an 1/8 scale truggy and I though it was gonna break in half and it held up just fine . So to answer your question yes its tough and can be bashed and raced . I love mine

Has anyone tried these?





HPI 72036

http://www.hpieurope.com/piw.php?lang=en&partNo=72036

Looks like the inside hole for the stub axle us to small. Your best option is to do the Tekno hexs that I posted pics about.

If U use the Tekno hex's U have to add shims behind the hex or the inner pin will fall out.

got a newsletter email from tekno about the hex adapters:

TKR1654X

Do they say anywhere on there site about shims and size thickness needed?

There has to be something wrong with your motor, my gearing doesn't even come close to this and I'm plenty quick. I have the 4 pole 3800 kv motor.

how far do you see the car go when the slipper is slipping before it fully engages?

Yep that's correct, I posted all that back on post 1169 I believe.

Hard to remember that far back, lol.

10+ feet. It's just slipping for days, Fully Compressed Spring on the slipper too. When I replaced the 1415 with the 1410 and ran the white SC10 2x4 pads, it was a rocket. Felt great, Minus temps, so I put in the 1415, and same pads, (no loss of thickness on pads) and now it does this for days, like I said, fully compressed, at least 8-10 feet.

Sounds like something happened to the thrust washer behind the rear drive pully.

No. That's doing well. I checked that, spins smoothely and re-installed properly. The car eventually warms up enough to get around the track and barely make the big jump, so it's not a permanent thing, but it takes 2-3 minutes to warm up the slipper, and from a dead stop I can't even kick up dirt, again, slipper fully compressed.


It's just damn odd.

have you had anyone else try that motor that you put in where the slipping occurs?

If you changed the motor and the problem went away then I would say you have a motor problem not a slipper problem. Sounds to me like the magnet is slipping on the motor shaft. I have seen this occur before, don't have any first hand experience with the Castle motors though.