I hear ya tbird. I have 41 packs through my truck, all outdoor. My truck started out super quiet, now it's starting to sound like a clapped out slash 4x4!

Still super tough though, NO breakage thus far, 41 packs, several hard landings, a few hard " bumps" and NOTHING has broken....

I gotta say I was a little worried about taking my rig out for its first track use today after hearing all the stories about traction rolling, slipper issues, etc. I'm happy to say my truck performed great. Maybe I'm just used to driving my Slash 4wd all last season and am accustomed to driving a 4wd, but I had no traction roll issues, even without swaybars. It just felt planted.

Setup:

MMP/1410 w/16t pinion on stock 32p spur
30k front diff
3k rear diff
Losi 8ight shocks w/ red springs
locked clicker
green Barcodes

Hooked up amazing right after the track was watered/swept. It's a large outdoor 1/8 scale sized clay track. I'm pretty dang happy.

Im running the same motor but run the SPX8 and a 12 toth pinion.

what u think about it? also did you try a 11t pin? is it night nd day difference

What are you running for oil in the shocks?
Did you limit the losi shocks, I notice they're a little longer.

i second the shock screw suggestion ...i got a 25 packs thru my tuck and one just came loose i got real lucky it didnt do any major damage .

DLewis4 (on here) asked me to see if the prototype motor he has would fit in the SC10 4x4. It does, but I did modify the rear chassis a bit to make it work without contacting and outer pieces. Now that I got it in there, I realized i over-did it a bit on the shaving away of chassis, but I don't feel as though the chassis is weak because of it.

Firstly, I don't think the outer edge of the chassis needed to be widdled down as much. It might need just a tad along the top to get the angle for dropping the motor in.

The one part that I did need to do (and over-did again) was the junction along the edge where the rear chassis piece meets the center chassis. There was some material there, that definitely needed removal, but I didn't have a pinion to put on it, so I was eye-balling where I thought it would need to sit. Once I got a pinion to check, it was clear I went a bit too far, but like I said, it is as rigid as before.

Note that I was careful not to leave any square corners - all rounded for strength.

Don't ask how the motor runs - I was just dropping it in for fitment and taking the following pics. Thanks for the loan to do this Derek! (shameless plug for www.premierehobbies.com)

I might be able to answer questions, but then again maybe not!

I didn't limit them. They work great just the way they are. I used 40wt in front and 35wt out back.

Thankyou

I had the same prob, it was my slipper assembly slipping to much, which caused heat. Check you slipper pads, if they are glazed that is most likley the culperate. I highly recommend the high torque slipper pads.

It's got the high torque slipper pads, and when setting the slipper the same way that it's done on a 2w truck, the front tires come off the table before the slipper actually slips.

Hmmm???
Is the motor mount plate gettin hot too? So the slipper pad is not glazing over?

T-bird, are you running the high torque pads on the inner and outer assembly?

I'm running the 4.5 ballistic with the 14mm rotor and MMP and I really like it. Much better for the tighter indoor layouts IMO. It drops the KV to 3850. I followed Ae's recommendations and geared with the suggested 13t for this KV but have decided that I need another tooth, maybe 2, even for the smallish indoor track that I run on. It's much cheaper than a new motor and it seems to me it slightly outpulls the tekin 5.5, enough that it's noticable on the straights (of course there could be variables other than motor output).

It also increases braking power.

Yeah. It didn't do this with the stock slipper pads

Gonna pull the pinion in a few minutes here and do the ol' roll test. The rear hub bearings are definitely fried, so those need replaced without question, but this is perplexing.