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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:19 AM
  #2536  
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Originally Posted by Dusttt
I think I have a decent sway bar set up.

I used sway holders from my Xray T3 2011

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Holders-T2-008


Some parts from a Losi Ten SCTE sway bar kit.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Bar-Kit-Ten-T

and I bent some 2mm music wire. You can even use set screws and yes the bumper clears. I just finished the front and will do rear tomorrow.
My sway setup seems to work great and made a huge difference. I think the truck needs weight up front for sure though. Im gonna tray that next.
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-sway-1.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-sway-2.jpg  
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:25 AM
  #2537  
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21
Some people can not see the forest for the trees" it's all good my friend
if you are one of those that can't. After all it takes all kinds to make the
world go round (even those with their head stuck in the sand are needed
to make the world go round)

Enjoy your SC10 4x4/RC10/MIP or what ever you want to see or not see
it is....


Sweet nonsense reply. I figured you wouldn't be able to back up your claims as to why you think the two platforms are similar as far as handling and why.
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:31 AM
  #2538  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
I've driven several SCTEs and I agree that "out of the box" they drive easier build for build. That is the only advantage the SCTE has over the SC10-4.

The SC10-4 is lighter, will out turn and out accelerate an SCTE "out of the box".

The MIP 4-10 Legend and its predecessors (the chain drive version and speedo-cable drive Tamiya's) were beautiful to look at and easy to maintain but they were not highly sought after for their handling and agility. They suffered greatly from understeer especially on power due to the forward swept front dog bones and were a bit faster than a 2wd but not as fast around the track as any of the Kyosho's or Yokomo's of that era.

I'm working to help all of us through the teething pains of the SC10-4. The SCTE and the Jammin have had plenty of time to figure their setups out. It won't be long until we have ours dialed in to near perfection.
Jim, when will you have the o-rings ready? Have you been haveing any leak issues with the low friction o-rings you are testing?

Thanks in advance,
Mario
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:32 AM
  #2539  
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Originally Posted by turbowop


Sweet nonsense reply. I figured you wouldn't be able to back up your claims as to why you think the two platforms are similar as far as handling and why.

Okay" What ever you think is fine with me"
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:36 AM
  #2540  
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Originally Posted by lockmouth
Jim, when will you have the o-rings ready? Have you been haveing any leak issues with the low friction o-rings you are testing?

Thanks in advance,
Mario
Mario,

They are on sale now.

I raced this past weekend in Palm Desert in near 100*F no leakage or seaping.

SC10 4X4 orings
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:36 AM
  #2541  
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Originally Posted by Dusttt
My sway setup seems to work great and made a huge difference. I think the truck needs weight up front for sure though. Im gonna tray that next.
Where did you get the blocks to hold it to the chassis?
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:37 AM
  #2542  
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Originally Posted by Chuck 21
Okay" What ever you think is fine with me"
Okay" good" I'm glad that's" fine with you"
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:38 AM
  #2543  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
I've driven several SCTEs and I agree that "out of the box" they drive easier build for build. That is the only advantage the SCTE has over the SC10-4.

The SC10-4 is lighter, will out turn and out accelerate an SCTE "out of the box".

The MIP 4-10 Legend and its predecessors (the chain drive version and speedo-cable drive Tamiya's) were beautiful to look at and easy to maintain but they were not highly sought after for their handling and agility. They suffered greatly from understeer especially on power due to the forward swept front dog bones and were a bit faster than a 2wd but not as fast around the track as any of the Kyosho's or Yokomo's of that era.

I'm working to help all of us through the teething pains of the SC10-4. The SCTE and the Jammin have had plenty of time to figure their setups out. It won't be long until we have ours dialed in to near perfection.

Now theres a guy who knows whats going on, Nice Post.....

I sure hope your right in your last sentence, thats what I'm working toward.
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:40 AM
  #2544  
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Originally Posted by Dusttt
My sway setup seems to work great and made a huge difference. I think the truck needs weight up front for sure though. Im gonna tray that next.
Would you have any idea metric music wire to standard sizes I could use to try your sway bar set up? Tower only offers music wire in standard sizes.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...wire&search=Go

Thanks
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:43 AM
  #2545  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
Mario,

They are on sale now.

I raced this past weekend in Palm Desert in near 100*F no leakage or seaping.

SC10 4X4 orings

Nice products on that site, to bad they don't have a phone# for ordering
for us guys who won't put CC#s on the net.
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:48 AM
  #2546  
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Originally Posted by isarctard
Would you have any idea metric music wire to standard sizes I could use to try your sway bar set up? Tower only offers music wire in standard sizes.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...wire&search=Go

Thanks
0.055 = 1.39mm
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWU99&P=7

0.078 = 2.0mm
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWV01&P=7
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:50 AM
  #2547  
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Originally Posted by lockmouth
0.059 = 1.5mm

0.078 = 2.0mm
Thanks!
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Old 05-30-2011 | 10:56 AM
  #2548  
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people are claiming the jammin sway bars are a direct fit?? is this true?
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Old 05-30-2011 | 11:08 AM
  #2549  
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Originally Posted by offtraxx
having other issues. somehow I went from 12-15 minute run times to 6. gotta be esc related. I have freed everything up as much as I can. anybody else have this prob?
Not sure if you've solved this yet, but a buddy of mine had one of the rear CVD pins come slightly out when he was changing wheels...it ended up binding up the whole drive train pretty badly.

To find it, we removed the pinion to make sure it wasn't the motor, then we removed the belt to isolate front and rear transmissions (might find that one of your transmission case screws is rubbing on the pulley...)

That might help isolate where you are getting your binding...
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Old 05-30-2011 | 11:18 AM
  #2550  
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Originally Posted by isarctard
Thanks!
I added links in my post
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