SC10 4x4 Thread
#2536
I think I have a decent sway bar set up.
I used sway holders from my Xray T3 2011
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Holders-T2-008
Some parts from a Losi Ten SCTE sway bar kit.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Bar-Kit-Ten-T
and I bent some 2mm music wire. You can even use set screws and yes the bumper clears. I just finished the front and will do rear tomorrow.
I used sway holders from my Xray T3 2011
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Holders-T2-008
Some parts from a Losi Ten SCTE sway bar kit.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-Bar-Kit-Ten-T
and I bent some 2mm music wire. You can even use set screws and yes the bumper clears. I just finished the front and will do rear tomorrow.
#2537
Some people can not see the forest for the trees" it's all good my friend
if you are one of those that can't. After all it takes all kinds to make the
world go round (even those with their head stuck in the sand are needed
to make the world go round)
Enjoy your SC10 4x4/RC10/MIP or what ever you want to see or not see
it is....
if you are one of those that can't. After all it takes all kinds to make the
world go round (even those with their head stuck in the sand are needed
to make the world go round)
Enjoy your SC10 4x4/RC10/MIP or what ever you want to see or not see
it is....


Sweet nonsense reply.
I figured you wouldn't be able to back up your claims as to why you think the two platforms are similar as far as handling and why.
#2538
I've driven several SCTEs and I agree that "out of the box" they drive easier build for build. That is the only advantage the SCTE has over the SC10-4.
The SC10-4 is lighter, will out turn and out accelerate an SCTE "out of the box".
The MIP 4-10 Legend and its predecessors (the chain drive version and speedo-cable drive Tamiya's) were beautiful to look at and easy to maintain but they were not highly sought after for their handling and agility. They suffered greatly from understeer especially on power due to the forward swept front dog bones and were a bit faster than a 2wd but not as fast around the track as any of the Kyosho's or Yokomo's of that era.
I'm working to help all of us through the teething pains of the SC10-4. The SCTE and the Jammin have had plenty of time to figure their setups out. It won't be long until we have ours dialed in to near perfection.
The SC10-4 is lighter, will out turn and out accelerate an SCTE "out of the box".
The MIP 4-10 Legend and its predecessors (the chain drive version and speedo-cable drive Tamiya's) were beautiful to look at and easy to maintain but they were not highly sought after for their handling and agility. They suffered greatly from understeer especially on power due to the forward swept front dog bones and were a bit faster than a 2wd but not as fast around the track as any of the Kyosho's or Yokomo's of that era.
I'm working to help all of us through the teething pains of the SC10-4. The SCTE and the Jammin have had plenty of time to figure their setups out. It won't be long until we have ours dialed in to near perfection.
Thanks in advance,
Mario
#2540
They are on sale now.

I raced this past weekend in Palm Desert in near 100*F no leakage or seaping.
SC10 4X4 orings
#2543
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,143
From: Havasu AZ
I've driven several SCTEs and I agree that "out of the box" they drive easier build for build. That is the only advantage the SCTE has over the SC10-4.
The SC10-4 is lighter, will out turn and out accelerate an SCTE "out of the box".
The MIP 4-10 Legend and its predecessors (the chain drive version and speedo-cable drive Tamiya's) were beautiful to look at and easy to maintain but they were not highly sought after for their handling and agility. They suffered greatly from understeer especially on power due to the forward swept front dog bones and were a bit faster than a 2wd but not as fast around the track as any of the Kyosho's or Yokomo's of that era.
I'm working to help all of us through the teething pains of the SC10-4. The SCTE and the Jammin have had plenty of time to figure their setups out. It won't be long until we have ours dialed in to near perfection.
The SC10-4 is lighter, will out turn and out accelerate an SCTE "out of the box".
The MIP 4-10 Legend and its predecessors (the chain drive version and speedo-cable drive Tamiya's) were beautiful to look at and easy to maintain but they were not highly sought after for their handling and agility. They suffered greatly from understeer especially on power due to the forward swept front dog bones and were a bit faster than a 2wd but not as fast around the track as any of the Kyosho's or Yokomo's of that era.
I'm working to help all of us through the teething pains of the SC10-4. The SCTE and the Jammin have had plenty of time to figure their setups out. It won't be long until we have ours dialed in to near perfection.
Now theres a guy who knows whats going on, Nice Post.....

I sure hope your right in your last sentence, thats what I'm working toward.
#2544
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (99)
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 803
From: South Boston, VA
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...wire&search=Go
Thanks
#2545
Tech Master
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,143
From: Havasu AZ
Mario,
They are on sale now.
I raced this past weekend in Palm Desert in near 100*F no leakage or seaping.
SC10 4X4 orings
They are on sale now.

I raced this past weekend in Palm Desert in near 100*F no leakage or seaping.
SC10 4X4 orings
Nice products on that site, to bad they don't have a phone# for ordering
for us guys who won't put CC#s on the net.
#2546
Would you have any idea metric music wire to standard sizes I could use to try your sway bar set up? Tower only offers music wire in standard sizes.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...wire&search=Go
Thanks
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...wire&search=Go
Thanks
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWU99&P=7
0.078 = 2.0mm
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXWV01&P=7
#2549
To find it, we removed the pinion to make sure it wasn't the motor, then we removed the belt to isolate front and rear transmissions (might find that one of your transmission case screws is rubbing on the pulley...)
That might help isolate where you are getting your binding...



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