Ditto. I can see using the rx box if you run at a track that's muddy all the time or if your a basher going through water, etc...I normally run at a indoor track that's well groomed so there's no need for the rx box for me.

I've run 2.5 rear bars on my SC10 4x4 and all I can say is you better be
racing on a smooth track because you will hate the 2.5 on a ruff track.

I even tried grinding a flat spot in the middle of the bar to soften it some
I could not even come close to softing it enough for a ruff track. I ended
up down to a 1.4 bar for a ruff track.

I'll save the 2.5 for a smooth track if I ever race on one LOL"

I love your discription of the SC10 4x4 as a fishing boat in a gale LOL"
I raced mine tonight and that fits perfect. Out of 4 SC10s tonight I qed
2nd first round. Then I pulled out my Losi SCTE and tqed 2nd round by
a bunch over a guy who normally beats me AE vs AE. Then I ran the Losi
in the main and played with him a while then beat him by a lap. His SC10
4x4 looked just like a fishing boat compared to my Losi which was rock
solid smooth and easy to drive. He is now going to our local hobby shop
to pick up a Losi and see what it's like to race a truck instead of a fishing
boat....LOL" LOL"

All in all I'm sneaking up on getting the SC10 4x4 to be a good SC truck
but it is taking a heck of alot of work where the Losi came out of the box
flying fast and smooth. Will I ever get the AE to work as good as the Losi
still remains to be seen. Theres one thing forsure though" the AE is going
to take alot of work and is not for novice R/C racers in any way shape or
form.

I like both trucks but the AE is an up hill battle to make it not be a fishing
boat as you put it....

I don't know yet. My truck is built and running, with four sets of different tires ready to go, but I can't race until next weekend. First race of the season last weekend was rained out, so I've been stuck just looking at my truck on the shelf. I had the Losi shocks just sitting around so I installed them out of boredom, but found that they fit really well. I'm assuming they will work well also, but time will tell.

Imagine that, rained out in WA. state Come on down to AZ. to race
if ya ever wanna break from your weather..

I ran mine again today I have 2mm front and rear the truck is very consistent.
My setup
10k diff front 5k rear
37.5 shock oil front 25 rear
-1 clamber all
25mm ride hight

Actually, I live in Eastern WA. 300+ days of sunshine a year. It's West of the Cascade mountain range that gets all the rain, but everybody thinks Seattle = WA state as a whole. All of Eastern WA is pretty much a desert.

Sure, IF your on a bumpy, high traction, blue groove, clay track. It has so much more to do with driving style than a pro set up, would you agree?
JT

The durango shocks are a direct fit. Had a guy swap them here at 702 rc raceway in Las vegas.
JT

I find it quite funny that you speak about yourself in the third person but to keep this on topic, and hopefully read you doing IT again, do they have a round head (button) or flat?
JT

well i officially broke my first part. The front left hub carrier. both the top and bottom screws just broke out the side.

little to say, lets hope shoegoo stands up to its name.. I fixed a drawer in my house that was in two parts with it, so i know how good it is. Shouldn't be a problem, although it just has to get me through another weekend as my order from amain should ship tomorrow.

Is it just me or does anyone else from australia have trouble getting parts. I guess none of the locals have them in stock as of yet.

I have the same bouncing issue. I posted on here last week and got a reply saying the rear shock o-ring (x-rings) are binding up the shock. I removed the upper ring and swapped the bladder out for the seal. I finaly have time today to test it after working 70 hrs last week.
I will report back tonight

Im running the box just for the cleaner wiring. I run in the same conditions.

With respect to the guys having their rear ends dance around , get loose , etc.

Do you think it would help if you raised the front end (ride height) some to put more weight on the rear?

What I 'think' is the front end is getting too much traction so its biting in harder making the rear come out. Maybe doing that plus diff lube and going up in shock oil will help? just guessing here.


I have the similiar problem when I run my sc10 2wd.

Wish my truck was running, stupid servo gear is stripped out. Some buddys of mine are doing a money race just for the heck of it. gahh

Going up in front shock oil should give the rear end more traction..

You can buy replacement gear sets for most servos.