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Old 05-28-2011 | 05:48 PM
  #2431  
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Nice body, very patriotic
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Old 05-28-2011 | 06:11 PM
  #2432  
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Well after a full day at the track yesterday I thought I destroyed my rear diff. , after a few runs with the 2400kv castle motor I started hearing a grinding type noise in the rear, tore apart the rear diff and it was fine, still had plenty of fluid in it so that was good to go..... I then noticed the 32p spur gear was shredded in certain areas (I feel like an idiot for not checking that first), so after replacing it with my 48p spur and swapping out the 2400kv motor I threw in my sensored tacon motor just to see how it performs, will post my thoughts after I run it at the track next week... Heres a few pics, its dirty but I did clean it up a little bit, but gonna give it a full overhauling very soon:







My painted body (dirty as well):



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Old 05-28-2011 | 06:16 PM
  #2433  
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Second day of test and tune.

Purchased Slash 4x4 sway bar kit, threw away wire, bought some K&S 2mm wire.

Trimmed threaded rod so the links were short enough, tossed ball studs and hodgepodged enough eyelet balls to run the 3x...buttton heads through and fix to arms. attaching the bars to the dif case took some MacGuyvering and was kinda fun. A couple of the appropriate size screws, a couple of blue washers out of my RC12 stash, some spacers out of an OFNA parts kit and a couple of slices from a Plano tacklebox drawer seperator and I had the bars attached loosely to the vehicle

I did bend up some wire to fit...

Then I drove it. What was a vehicle that closely resembled a fishing boat rolling around in a gale, became an almost manageable truck to drive.

I must live in a different world than most of you, because from my end of the transmitter, this truck is nearly not drivable without sway bars. And honestly, I think I'm going to bend up some 2.5mm bars, at least for the rear.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 06:20 PM
  #2434  
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Originally Posted by PanicRev
Ya, Immediatly after building I held the steering rack w/ my thumb and checked the ss tension. Tight. Much tighter than I usually shoot for. I backed up the nut all the way to the bottom of the top plate then flexed the ss open and added some black grease (just a little dab) , it should work it's way around.

At least 2 guys at our track have cut one coil off the spring and are happy w/ that fix.

Note: One racer at our track had a pretty hard front end smack and broke the top half servo saver arm. To me that is just more evidence that it's too damn tight.
Agreed!!!I replaced my busted "not meant for this application" servo with exactly the same servo..I loosened up the nut on the servo saver also and took it through some hard paces and smacks at my local track..Not one failure or break down with the "shitty" traxxas servo...Proves, I was right and the servo saver is to tight!!I may do what your buddy's did..It held up great yesterday with some brutal side wheel smacks that were 100 times harder than that lil rub that broke the same servo the frist time...The traxxas servo may not be ideal, but more than capable imo, especially when i have seen them perform very well on the heavier slash and losi 4wd's...I do run on a extremely loose track and think that may play a factor in why the servo may be holding up (shockingly) so well..Really happy with it's performance, especially, after hearing all the nay sayers.....I do understand though, that I need to upgrade the servo for racing purposes...Happy memorial weekend to all the helpful and non annoying ppl!!
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Old 05-28-2011 | 06:35 PM
  #2435  
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Originally Posted by turbowop
I used the buggy shocks. Short fronts and long rears. And they're the "race" shocks that have the aluminum tops, not the plastic ones. Medium pistons, I don't remember what weight oil I filled them with. I think 40front and 30rear. But that will all depend on your local track.
Did you notice a big difference? I am having major issues with the rear of my truck if bounces alot and seems way to loose. I run on 1/8 scale bumpy tracks.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 06:47 PM
  #2436  
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Just got mine! Excited to start build.

Wondering if anyone has experience using a Hobbywing EZ run brushless system in one of these? I have a 5.5 6000kv motor and and 60A esc laying here that could use a new home. Hate to spend money if I do not have to. Id link it but sadly I have not made enough posts to link anything.

thanks
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Old 05-28-2011 | 07:09 PM
  #2437  
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Getting ready to build mine tomorrow, putting in Ballistic 550, 5.5t with 14mm rotor, running RX8 as ESC, plan on doing outdoor off -road, what pinion should I start with ???????? 32pitch right?? since its a 550
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Old 05-28-2011 | 07:28 PM
  #2438  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
Nice body, very patriotic
Thanks, still need to shoo-goo a little and it's ready for some use/abuse

It's a little more patriotic than I had planned, the liquid masked the whole thing and that led to the colors being all over the place.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 07:48 PM
  #2439  
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Anyone notice that the normal 32p pinion gears dont mesh with the "32p" spur Associated supplied? Got some 32p Associated pinions only to find they didnt mesh. Read the parts list in the manual to discover Associated has a different part number for the 32p gears that fit the truck. WHY? Now I need to ask my LHS to get these and wait a few more days. Dumb.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 08:31 PM
  #2440  
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Is everyone using the receiver box or the electronics tray?
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Old 05-28-2011 | 08:39 PM
  #2441  
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I used the electronics tray to cushion the speedo, but ditched the receiver box.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 09:25 PM
  #2442  
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Little review about my settings.
My tracknis blue groove very dusty. Very long and large for 1/8 scale.Not too much bumpy.
Combo motor/ ESC from Castle creation 1410, gearing 16/62. Lipo Protek 2S 35C 5000 mah.
Outside temperature 95... Yes it s Texas baby.
After a full lipo, lipo at 120, ESC at 140 ( fan on it ) and motor at 165.
Top speed very fast, acceleration is crazy. Clicker tight and slipper too. For braking, i can hear the belt. All my transmission is very smooth.
Jump perfect, lipo in the center, i use the receiver box and ESC is just in front.
All setup are stock except for diff at 5000 front and rear but i ll going to try 30000 in front.
I have the 19T pully in front and really better compare to 20T.
Camber at minus 1 every where but i ll going to try minus2 at the rear.
My problem is that too much steering and the rear dance a lot, dance really too much. I m not sure but I think swaybar is the solution....but when AE going to made that... I have read at the end of the month or not before 3 months....
Tires caliber m4 or barcode gold, my preference go to the last one. Wheel DE for Losi SCTE.
It s a really race truck, means very sensitive at all setup. It s like my T4, with good setup, you are fast and it s easy, bad setup and you have to fight.
Actually with my SC10, i have to fight but I love this truck.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 09:31 PM
  #2443  
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Sounds like maybe your slipper is too tight! If it's dusty, you will want it a bit looser so that the rear end catches traction.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 09:48 PM
  #2444  
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Originally Posted by FRONTI3R
Sounds like maybe your slipper is too tight! If it's dusty, you will want it a bit looser so that the rear end catches traction.
I tried already but must to work more on that, it was too loose so I had some problem for jump, it seems that it s very delicate to adjust.
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Old 05-28-2011 | 09:50 PM
  #2445  
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91123 and 91124.... Do you know what those numbers are.....
Sway bar FT and RR reference.....smeele good if they have already ref....
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