The clicker doesn't seem to have much adjustment...

Seems to go from loose to pretty loose, to locked. I think a stiffer spring would allow you to run it tighter before it locks up. I'm not sure if it would be able to handle the extra abuse, but it would be cool to have a little bit of front braking with it partway in.

I didn't have issues neither. One thing I've noticed with kits that are having issues are from guys who build it in 2 to 3 hours, I took my time read and re read the directions till I knew exactly what to do then did that step, I then checked over everything after each step to make sure nothing was binding.

So I'm a nut shell rush and have problems, take your time and reduce problems drastically

It would be if you are looking for expo adjustments. But in a pinch and on a 35 dollar remote, expo would be my last worry.

I for one am shocked at the relatively few problems people have had with this new ground up design and with how few broken parts have been reported. I certainly expected more issues. My only problem was that I had to make my own swaybars, which made this truck go from good to great on the track.

+1

Have you guys tried running the 19T clicker in the front? If not, try it. I'm liking that (I think) it reduces some of the oversteer on power.

Also, I switched from 30 to 35 wt oil in the front ... LOVE IT. Now it doesn't bounce around nearly as much on jumps or big bumps. Instead, the shocks now just absorb the bump, and keeps on going.


... also for a lot of people, it's a great idea to play around with the expo (just make sure that you've got it in the CORRECT DIRECTION: Negative for hitec / futaba, and positive for spektrum / JR .. and I think Airtronics). It allows us to to keep the steering, yet making the small input much more easily done, as well as making it less likely to spin out. My guess is that those who said that they don't need it are part of the old school crowd who learned on NO expo .

Most of the adjustment on the clicker happens in the first turn from completely locked. So try locking it all the way, and then turning it 1/8 to 1/4 turn at a time.

I can get mine to stay locked except in really hard braking. Adding the black grease (per Chris Jaroz's recs) also help reduce the annoying sound )

I would like to see some different tension clicker springs like we have for shock springs. Seems you get a easy click or locked with the stock spring. I would like to be able to adjust how much click; more that we can now. I used some pretty heavy grease to make it quite and help slow the click some.

We put my friends truck together the other day and it was flawless. Starting on mine tOmorrow.

I have built two kits with zero problems. Ive had mine at the track 4 times(probably 40 packs) and have broken nothing. I just finised building Sam's kit (you know who I am) and it went flawlessly. In fact, it was a pleasure building them both

we had 20 kits, one was missing one part and we sold 18 kits so far...... that is a great percentage!!

After driving one my truck will have the clicker locked. The truck turns insanely good. I don't much need for it unless you have a very very small tight high bite track.

the only problem i found was the shock piston screws. the kit went together perfectly. all the parts were there. nothing screwed up. i gotta say, for a new design its pretty tough.

From the Jammin SC truck? Part number please!

I ran my clicker tighter than 2mm but not quite 3mm. It was a lot tighter than the 2mm setting. I completely roached the clicker in a few heats. My guess is the excessive friction was too much for it. I didn't have any black grease on it.