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Old 05-22-2011 | 09:53 PM
  #1921  
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Originally Posted by jammintosc104x4
re west coast (my local track) how did the top 4 run 20 laps in the sat. points race? i could not be there...
I ran in the expert sc class...I have no idea?!? I didn't stick around to look at the race results...it was past midnight and I wanted to get home. I know TQ in my class was a 15 lapper...there's no way anyone went 20 laps in 5 minutes. Josh Newman went 16 laps in 4wd expert buggy and he was the fastest guy there...
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Old 05-22-2011 | 09:54 PM
  #1922  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
This is my problem too...I raced mine for the first time yesterday and I had my servo always wanting to veer to the right or left. I'm wondering if my servo has just gotten old and tired (it was doing steering duty for a kyosho st-rr for a while)? Today I could center the servo & checked it in front of my house...I would go up and down the street a little and come back & it would be off center again! I haven't pulled off the servo arm yet to see if it's the arm...I hope I don't have to buy another servo...I didn't crash enough yesterday to warrant it, but then again it maybe that it's just old and has lost it's centering ability? A few people have posted this same problem...have you guys fixed it? Please let me know...thanks!
ThunderbirdJunkie's 1257 in his XXX-SCT is about 6 months old and is starting to have issues recentering, FWIW.
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Old 05-22-2011 | 09:56 PM
  #1923  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
ThunderbirdJunkie's 1257 in his XXX-SCT is about 6 months old and is starting to have issues recentering, FWIW.
Thanks t-bird...maybe it is time to get a new servo. It's a hitec 5966 which they don't make anymore! Arrgggg...another $100 gone to the r/c gods
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Old 05-22-2011 | 10:01 PM
  #1924  
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Originally Posted by jammintosc104x4
Just did that and there is little to no movement on any of my cvd cup. the whole thing moves the amount between the barring and the pin
Should have specified, I'm talking about the diff cup/dog bone cup...
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Old 05-22-2011 | 10:02 PM
  #1925  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
Thanks t-bird...maybe it is time to get a new servo. It's a hitec 5966 which they don't make anymore! Arrgggg...another $100 gone to the r/c gods
7940 is a good one
It ain't cheap...but well...it's not often ThunderbirdJunkie uses something of somebody else's and wishes he spent twice as much

Just make sure you buy a few extra HPI K4.6 backplate screws
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Old 05-22-2011 | 10:08 PM
  #1926  
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Originally Posted by Dragrcr
Should have specified, I'm talking about the diff cup/dog bone cup...
that is tight on mine. thought that was odd there is not a pin cup in the rear
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Old 05-22-2011 | 10:13 PM
  #1927  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
I ran in the expert sc class...I have no idea?!? I didn't stick around to look at the race results...it was past midnight and I wanted to get home. I know TQ in my class was a 15 lapper...there's no way anyone went 20 laps in 5 minutes. Josh Newman went 16 laps in 4wd expert buggy and he was the fastest guy there...

it was a mistake on live rc it has the josh newman score correct 16 5:18 damn fast.
but never mind went to wcrc site it has top sports guy @ 14 5:02
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Old 05-22-2011 | 10:21 PM
  #1928  
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Originally Posted by jammintosc104x4
that is tight on mine. thought that was odd there is not a pin cup in the rear
So your diff cups don't move at all? ALL 4 of mine are moving up and down about 2mm? WTF?
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Old 05-22-2011 | 10:24 PM
  #1929  
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Originally Posted by BLbound
This is my problem too...I raced mine for the first time yesterday and I had my servo always wanting to veer to the right or left. I'm wondering if my servo has just gotten old and tired (it was doing steering duty for a kyosho st-rr for a while)? Today I could center the servo & checked it in front of my house...I would go up and down the street a little and come back & it would be off center again! I haven't pulled off the servo arm yet to see if it's the arm...I hope I don't have to buy another servo...I didn't crash enough yesterday to warrant it, but then again it maybe that it's just old and has lost it's centering ability? A few people have posted this same problem...have you guys fixed it? Please let me know...thanks!
This totally sounds like a servo issue. Get a Hitec
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Old 05-22-2011 | 10:41 PM
  #1930  
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Originally Posted by offtraxx
other than that, I noticed my rear wheels like to hop on the ruff areas of the track. I tried ride hight and oil changes. just can't suck up the bumps like my 2wd used to. has anybody tested other springs yet? a softer spring might help but my lhs doesn't have ae ones's in yet. what fits??


The problem is the shocks are sticking because of the crappy orings AE is
trying to run in the shock cartridge, plus some of the cartridges the holes
are to small or not round in shape.

The fix I found was to make sure the holes are round and the right size by
drilling or exacto knife. Then replace the bottom oring with an Ofna 1/8th
shock oring and replace the top oring with an SC10 2wd oring packing both
with RED Mobile 1 synthetic grease.

This makes shocks smooth and free in movement and they don't leak.

Hope this helps you & others"
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Old 05-22-2011 | 10:45 PM
  #1931  
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Originally Posted by BoneDoc
Awesome driving. What's your setup there?
30wt front
25wt rear
no swaybars
fultime 4wd
-1 camber front and rear
ezrun 60A speedo
old velinion traxxas motor
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Old 05-23-2011 | 12:36 AM
  #1932  
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Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
Not sure if you realize this...but...in the steps where you're putting the bearings in, it tells you the size. You could've just like, opened the manual.

Your inability (or lack of desire) to help yourself is slightly unnerving.
Originally Posted by T-BirdJunkie
Ooh, forgot to ask.

Never had an electric 4 wheel before. How do you set the slipper on this thing? The same way you would on a 2 wheel?
i believe it tells you in the manual how to set the slipper...

yup. page 28.
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Old 05-23-2011 | 02:26 AM
  #1933  
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Again, anybody have feedback?? I have run into problems with my sc10 4wd...Mostly bc of user error, I think for running the truck without the two advised washers that go on the slipper assembly..I probably should have waited to put them on..Did you guys have the extra washers/shims that were recomended on this thread included in there kits??In running it, I think I destroyed my slipper thrust bearing due to the slipper thrust spacer not being machined right as noted b/f.....Well, i ran it without the spacers and needed to keep on tightening the slipper ( that everone says is the symptom of the mismanufactured part) and think i caused the slipper pads to burn out and destroy the slipper thrust bearing..The tranny is not binding as i free rolled it nicely..It also caused my 19t pulley to damage slightly..It's now a paper weight and feel bummed about it ..I should have waited for the washers/spacers/shims/whatever you want to call them..
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Old 05-23-2011 | 02:58 AM
  #1934  
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Originally Posted by RC*PHREAK
i believe it tells you in the manual how to set the slipper...

yup. page 28.
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Old 05-23-2011 | 04:21 AM
  #1935  
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Originally Posted by Sideways_1
Anyone?

I did build them both at Half Rebound just to start with, which is when I found the above issue.
I had one bladder that was mashed and deformed. I built my shocks emulsion style. I find it easier to build the shocks the same side to side emulsion style anyway.
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