Body off.

Wow, I've totally missed this thread. Got some reading to do..!

Here's my car though

Stock shock springs are:

* Stock Front – Blue (Short), 4.3LB
* Stock Rear – Blue (Long), 2.8LB


Losi reds:

Front - 4.1lb
Rear - 2.5lb

Not a huge difference. My local track is super bumpy loam natural dirt. The softer the suspension, the better. Once I finally get this thing on the track, I'll test out both sets of shocks to see what I like best. I just wanted to add this to the thread as a data point that other shock options are available.

Thank you for taking the time top answer Chris"

Now if this info. gets on the front page for everyone we're dailed"

Once again, Good Luck over there"

Thanks for all your suggestions Chris, Rick and Chad
I do appreciate your efforts in posting and helping us get the right set ups for the sc10 4wd. Can you imagine playing golf and getting tips from Rocco or Adam Scott. Well these racers are of these golfers caliber and they still find time to help us out. What is sad is we still have people complaining about not having enough info.
thanks again guys

For the shocks
I dont see any problems with the bladders on except that they dont compress as much as the emulsion type shock. I had to remove the screw and compress them multiple times and put the screw back. Now they work better and compresses more compared to before. It feels smoother now. Maybe they just put too much shock oil havent rebuilt mine yet.
And I think adding a sway bar will be very beneficial for the shocks and the car to run smoother and less twitchy.
My 2 cents

Bringing the new sc10 4wd up for racing tonight Chuck?

heres mine i hope im doing this right lol

Are folks stepping up to 13t or higher on this motor?

It came off pretty hot - going on faith that it's not a binding issue but may be geared wrong.

Thanks,
Yapster

What is pretty hot? Do you have a temp gun? What size track are you running on?

I noticed on a small clay track using the 13t mine hit 130 after running for close to 5 minutes. On a large outside track also with the 13t, after 10 minutes it was still only around 115.

The next time I go back to the small indoor track, I will go with the 12t. Or I might put my 5.5 or 6.5 in.

and pretty loose. Long straight away, long sweepting ends and typical infield. Picked up a tem gauge on way home - no idea just felt hotter than I've ever noticed other motors. ESC was hardly warm.

Nope, can't make it to 702 tonight... I'm going to Kingman tomorrow all of
the Havasu guys are going. They closed our Havasu track for tomorrow so
everyone could go to Kingman to race. Some of the Vegas guys are going
to Kingman to race tomorrow. So if you can swing it you might wanna
come down and join us all in Kingman...

same with me but it was with the springs 3 long and 1 short.
JT

WTF am I doing wrong?

Got a Castle 1410 geared 12/62 w/32p and it feels underpowered and it's coming off hot as hell. I hit 190 with a 13t and hitting 145 with a 12t. Burned through a standard slipper pad and went to a high torque pad and I still feel like I have to run the slipper pretty tight.

Guys are clearing sections with ease while I feel like I need a bigger run and struggle to make it. I thought the 1410 4 pole was the cats meow but it feels small and runs hotter than most guys are seeing.

Just rebuilt my trannies, they're super smooth and it rolls well when it's not meshed with the motor.

Track is indoor clay, most guys run 21 second laps. It's a tighter track but a lot of the turns are banked sweepers.

wish i could be there tonight also. Work work work
JT

If you are worried about temps, the 1/10 castle fan can be made to fit that motor. Just have to take the tabs off the top side of the fan where the solder tabs are and it will snap down into place