Get the Grid mount. Very nice piece and usually available. I like mine.

http://www.gridrc.com/shop/

j

And the grid mount comes with a top plate when the elite mount does not

The correct tire and compound is HUGE percentage of a good handling off-road car. These changes in geometry are moot if the tire choice is off......

this is the motor i run geared at 26/stock spur. i only need to run 60% epa to be crazy fast. run time w/ 5000 4s is about 12-15 min depending on track size and how hard you drive. temps are not an issue yet.

i need help with battery recommendations please. i just got the car and want to know what batteries you guys recommend. please PM me ur setup or respond in here. ppictures would also help!

thanks
dennis

What I run. Great battery for the price

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10869

^ YUP, that battery is awesome. i have a few of them.

btw, the turnigy 40-50c 5000mah 4s is back in stock at hk.
they are softcase but have tons of punch. i ordered one. 49 bux.

Absolutly. But changing the suspension geometry has a huge impact on how the car handles. Try setting you shocks to the outer most hole in the shock tower, you will loose seering response. Setting them to the inner most hole will make the steering more agressive(way to much IMO).

No doubt....my point is....that a lot of advice gets thrown around on here....and nobody knows if the the person has the right meats on the car!

Of course moving pick up points will change the cars behavior....but when a car is too stuck on dirt (the guys car will not turn/rotate)....usually....wrong tire.

cheers,
George

That's for the suggestions guys. I'll be at the track all day tomorrow tuning on 3 rigs. I plan to flip the sway bars and lay the top of the front shocks In. I'll report back what I find out...

Agreed, again. I would hope people have enough sense to use the right tires for theur respective tracks. If not, than any advice is rendered irrelivent.
I run the pro setup on AE's site, and it works excellent.

Another thing....I don't care too much for a buggy that "rotates" too much. Just don't like the loose feeling. Is this how 1/8 buggys are supposed to be driven?

I also assume when giving setup advice that the guy on the other end already has the correct tire figured out...

Maybe I should change that way of thinking.

Rednck21 I don't like that feel either. I try to dial in as much steering as I can without drifting the back end around. It's not always the easiest thing to do especially with the amount of power these e-buggies have. I do agree though your sway bar combo seems wrong. Instead of swapping them I would go silver front and rear first. Then if you can drop to the softer front because the hardest rear one is going to free the back of the car up and feel loose like you said you don't like. Also lowering you current limiter or epa might help. I know it has for me.

I'm trying the upper hole in the rear hub and the softer black springs on mine. I started with the black springs on the rear but felt like I had to use too much preload and the rear was still squating too much so I went back to silver before going to the track. With the rear hub change I didn't need as much preload and I'm not as concerned with it squating because I really want it to plant the back end on corner exit anyway. Problem is I'm running this as a second class and that hasnt given me a chance to try any setup changes at the track and I'm not gonna be able to race the next few weeks because of family stuff so I won't know for weeks if I am making the right changes or not. I can only go by my 3 years racing the RC8 nitro.

Perhaps someone would be willing to post up what they have found works best for treads for certain conditions??? Might be helpful and people might get to true issues giving them RE kick out....

Just put a stock # or a link of the tire and what condition you have used them for. No bench racing please ..