Go-Tech Engines Thread
Well, I had a look in my RTR spares box and found just the ticket for you 
It a backplate for .21 / .25 / .28 RTR motors. It has a groove cut out of the face of the backplate for the pull start pin (on the end of the crank pin) to rotate through. Now, I am assuming the RTR and the Sport series are the same ?
The part numbers are
Rear cover: 28-1000
Rear cover O Ring: OR-0027
Screw set: S6-2606
I sell these as a kit, as the screws are a different length than the ones that hold the pull start on.
Please check with your Aussie GO supplier first and see if he has these parts.
If he doesn't stock them, and he doesn't mind me posting them over to you, then we can do it.
I don't want to step on anyones toes over supplying their customers.
Let me know the outcome, and hopefully we can sort something out for you.

It a backplate for .21 / .25 / .28 RTR motors. It has a groove cut out of the face of the backplate for the pull start pin (on the end of the crank pin) to rotate through. Now, I am assuming the RTR and the Sport series are the same ?
The part numbers are
Rear cover: 28-1000
Rear cover O Ring: OR-0027
Screw set: S6-2606
I sell these as a kit, as the screws are a different length than the ones that hold the pull start on.
Please check with your Aussie GO supplier first and see if he has these parts.
If he doesn't stock them, and he doesn't mind me posting them over to you, then we can do it.
I don't want to step on anyones toes over supplying their customers.
Let me know the outcome, and hopefully we can sort something out for you.
Well, I had a look in my RTR spares box and found just the ticket for you 
It a backplate for .21 / .25 / .28 RTR motors. It has a groove cut out of the face of the backplate for the pull start pin (on the end of the crank pin) to rotate through. Now, I am assuming the RTR and the Sport series are the same ?
The part numbers are
Rear cover: 28-1000
Rear cover O Ring: OR-0027
Screw set: S6-2606
I sell these as a kit, as the screws are a different length than the ones that hold the pull start on.
Please check with your Aussie GO supplier first and see if he has these parts.
If he doesn't stock them, and he doesn't mind me posting them over to you, then we can do it.
I don't want to step on anyones toes over supplying their customers.
Let me know the outcome, and hopefully we can sort something out for you.

It a backplate for .21 / .25 / .28 RTR motors. It has a groove cut out of the face of the backplate for the pull start pin (on the end of the crank pin) to rotate through. Now, I am assuming the RTR and the Sport series are the same ?
The part numbers are
Rear cover: 28-1000
Rear cover O Ring: OR-0027
Screw set: S6-2606
I sell these as a kit, as the screws are a different length than the ones that hold the pull start on.
Please check with your Aussie GO supplier first and see if he has these parts.
If he doesn't stock them, and he doesn't mind me posting them over to you, then we can do it.
I don't want to step on anyones toes over supplying their customers.
Let me know the outcome, and hopefully we can sort something out for you.
Tech Rookie
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 4
Well, I had a look in my RTR spares box and found just the ticket for you 
It a backplate for .21 / .25 / .28 RTR motors. It has a groove cut out of the face of the backplate for the pull start pin (on the end of the crank pin) to rotate through. Now, I am assuming the RTR and the Sport series are the same ?
The part numbers are
Rear cover: 28-1000
Rear cover O Ring: OR-0027
Screw set: S6-2606
I sell these as a kit, as the screws are a different length than the ones that hold the pull start on.
Please check with your Aussie GO supplier first and see if he has these parts.
If he doesn't stock them, and he doesn't mind me posting them over to you, then we can do it.
I don't want to step on anyones toes over supplying their customers.
Let me know the outcome, and hopefully we can sort something out for you.

It a backplate for .21 / .25 / .28 RTR motors. It has a groove cut out of the face of the backplate for the pull start pin (on the end of the crank pin) to rotate through. Now, I am assuming the RTR and the Sport series are the same ?
The part numbers are
Rear cover: 28-1000
Rear cover O Ring: OR-0027
Screw set: S6-2606
I sell these as a kit, as the screws are a different length than the ones that hold the pull start on.
Please check with your Aussie GO supplier first and see if he has these parts.
If he doesn't stock them, and he doesn't mind me posting them over to you, then we can do it.
I don't want to step on anyones toes over supplying their customers.
Let me know the outcome, and hopefully we can sort something out for you.
How much for the set and how to do i purchase if possible?
Thanks,
Marco
Ahh - I thougt you were in Australia. Sorry.
Yep, see what Trey (Runne) has to say. He may well have the parts in stock.
GO Taiwan has a policy of their distributors in various countries not selling across the borders as it were. It is very much frowned upon if someone complains, so I always err on the side of caution if I'm looking at supplying anything outside of my own country. Some countries don't have official agencies or distributors, so it's not a problem - but you being in the US certainly do, so best check with them first.
Yep, see what Trey (Runne) has to say. He may well have the parts in stock.
GO Taiwan has a policy of their distributors in various countries not selling across the borders as it were. It is very much frowned upon if someone complains, so I always err on the side of caution if I'm looking at supplying anything outside of my own country. Some countries don't have official agencies or distributors, so it's not a problem - but you being in the US certainly do, so best check with them first.
Last edited by grizz1; 05-13-2011 at 02:57 AM.

Hey Rex they have updated the moulding and material for the piston and case in the Pro 25 and 28 range. The mods we do here in OZ, this wont be a factory made engine.
We are selling them internationally so people in the good old USA and Europe are welcome to purchase on line. There should be a sale option soon on the web sites mentioned once we get over the initial rush. First 7 engines have sold before they hit so we are re ordering more soon.
If you like tons of instant torque grunt and rpm with about 11.5 to 12 mins per truggy tank then this is the engine for you. Its been designed for technical tracks where you need instant control with the legs to hunt down the quickest 21 on the straight
. Cheers M
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 42
hi to all, new gxii fully ran in and goin fine,just wonderin what are the run times of this new engine? currently running engine with its original carb and a go 2072 pipe, and o donnell 97t plug, currently gettin round 9 minutes from a tank but need a bit more! we have an event next month on a track im not familiar with and heats are all 10 minute runs, no problem to the guys who are expert at this but im relatively new to the sport so it a bit of an ordeal! the track is hard packed and fairly open with big sweeping bends , i have a go gx7port also would this be a better choice for the day? any advice welcome on how to tune either engine for longer run times,regards jason
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
hi to all, new gxii fully ran in and goin fine,just wonderin what are the run times of this new engine? currently running engine with its original carb and a go 2072 pipe, and o donnell 97t plug, currently gettin round 9 minutes from a tank but need a bit more! we have an event next month on a track im not familiar with and heats are all 10 minute runs, no problem to the guys who are expert at this but im relatively new to the sport so it a bit of an ordeal! the track is hard packed and fairly open with big sweeping bends , i have a go gx7port also would this be a better choice for the day? any advice welcome on how to tune either engine for longer run times,regards jason
exhaust cooler
fuel filter
little longer fuel line... if allowed at event
take spacer out of tank... if allowed at track
lighter throttle finger....(smoother driving) thats my biggest problem
softer clutch set up ( less rev- smoother)
just a few things maybe to look at. good luck at your event!
at most events the more line etc option above ^ is a no no as each class is limited to a set maximum tank and line capasity.............................. try
7mm restrictor, set your throttle throw end point on radio so that it stops with 4mm still to go on your carby slide's full throw, depending on how OPEN it actually is you could also try going up in gearing, and smooth driving is key...... back off the throttle a little earlier than usual and let momentum carry you the extra distance before braking for corners etc
7mm restrictor, set your throttle throw end point on radio so that it stops with 4mm still to go on your carby slide's full throw, depending on how OPEN it actually is you could also try going up in gearing, and smooth driving is key...... back off the throttle a little earlier than usual and let momentum carry you the extra distance before braking for corners etc
good advise guys, the GXII i have found to be way more fuel efficent than the GX7R.
Smooth driving and EPA is the biggest saver and you will still do fast laps...I missed my fuel stop a few races ago so to be safe on fuel i cruised around using a lot less throttle that lap, i'd say a 3rd to a half less..out of interest i checked that lap time and it was only a 3rd of a second slower than my hard driven good laps.
pushing the GXII hard I can get 10 minutes so driving smooth 12 should be possible but to be honest its more fun going hard.
I'm also running the same plug and pipe as you in a mugen mbx6.
one other thing that will effect fuel usage is an over oiled air filter
Smooth driving and EPA is the biggest saver and you will still do fast laps...I missed my fuel stop a few races ago so to be safe on fuel i cruised around using a lot less throttle that lap, i'd say a 3rd to a half less..out of interest i checked that lap time and it was only a 3rd of a second slower than my hard driven good laps.
pushing the GXII hard I can get 10 minutes so driving smooth 12 should be possible but to be honest its more fun going hard.
I'm also running the same plug and pipe as you in a mugen mbx6.
one other thing that will effect fuel usage is an over oiled air filter
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 7,916
From: northern michigan
good advise guys, the GXII i have found to be way more fuel efficent than the GX7R.
Smooth driving and EPA is the biggest saver and you will still do fast laps...I missed my fuel stop a few races ago so to be safe on fuel i cruised around using a lot less throttle that lap, i'd say a 3rd to a half less..out of interest i checked that lap time and it was only a 3rd of a second slower than my hard driven good laps.
pushing the GXII hard I can get 10 minutes so driving smooth 12 should be possible but to be honest its more fun going hard.
I'm also running the same plug and pipe as you in a mugen mbx6.
one other thing that will effect fuel usage is an over oiled air filter
Smooth driving and EPA is the biggest saver and you will still do fast laps...I missed my fuel stop a few races ago so to be safe on fuel i cruised around using a lot less throttle that lap, i'd say a 3rd to a half less..out of interest i checked that lap time and it was only a 3rd of a second slower than my hard driven good laps.
pushing the GXII hard I can get 10 minutes so driving smooth 12 should be possible but to be honest its more fun going hard.
I'm also running the same plug and pipe as you in a mugen mbx6.
one other thing that will effect fuel usage is an over oiled air filter
If it still a little staunch try - 2 x alloy with gold springs & 2 x carbon with green springs (this is very smooth yet still snappy enough - nice for slightly dusty track).



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