Quick question...how much does the additional 3mm's to the chassis really help it?
and couldnt you use the SC8/RC8T chassis? I think its longer..not sure by how much...
I understand the additional length would help to make it more stable, but I mean 3mm's isnt really much.
I just started driving this buggy, and its literally point and shoot, I love how it handles and drives, I couldnt imagine it being much easier

Any of you guys convert your rc8b to electric from a nitro? Looking to try my rig as a nitro..im sure someone on here has all them parts laying around they wouldn't mind getting rid of.. Just need the basics brakes and links, tank, servo and receiver tray, motor mounts.. let me know.

I think the new chassis is a must have for medium-large outdoor tracks with 1/8 scale jumps. If I understand it correctly, the center diff will be slightly further away from the rear diff which translates into a substantial change in weight front to rear weight distribution. As mentioned before, you can't replicate the 3mm built into the chasis by just changing the wheel base.

I have decided to get the new chassis now (direct from AE) and I'm going to wait for the rest of the parts to be available at hobby stores before I buy them.

Ive been going back and forth whether or not to buy these parts. Ive been against spending the ~$250 for the upgrades from the start, and have thought about just getting the towers and arms. But then I get to thinking that it may just be a waste only getting 50% of the upgrades. If i dumped another $250 into this, that means this roller was purchased for $650... and that's to much in my opinion. These parts actually have me looking at other cars such as the mugen eco.

Anyone else in the same boat?

The only way im gonna drop the cash for all the updated parts, is if someone who I normally beat, starts beating me with them...

kinda like how the Losi SCTe came in and put my Slash out to pasture!!

Other than that, unless your a top tier driver, who doesnt pay for this stuff anyways... I dont see the need for it

I have a question for diff fluids, I am running the stock setup of 5/5/5 I believe is what it is, I would like a little more pull from the front end. Would I go up in the diff. fluid range or go down.

My car is pushing a little getting into and out of corners when I am off the throttle and want a little more balance I guess. Any ideas ?

I am running stock gearing 15/46 and was thinking of going 20/46 for a little more speed with the CC 2200kv/MM set up. Outside SC track with some pretty good bite.

Thanks for any input.

A 20t on your 2200 is going to give you some insane top end, is that much speed needed? My friend runs a 16t on his 2200 and it is stupid fast. Im geared 18/46 on my 1900 and it just barely tops out on the back straight.

As far as the diff oils go, thicken up your center to 7000. It will help with gaining forward traction. I run 5-7-3. The 3000 out back will also decrease some of the push your getting right now on a high bite track because the 3000 will help the rear end and get some more diff action going for you, allowing you to turn tighter.

Give that a try and let us know.

I dont understand the controversy around the update. Get the items as you need them. The arms and towers are only like $60 thats a deal IMO as Ive seen some single towers cost near that by themselves for other vehicles. I plan to get the arms and towers when I can but Im gonna wait on the chassis until I need a chassis.

Why would you ditch the car and buy another because there are hopups available for your current ride? I bought the car just a couple months ago knowing the new parts were coming and figured just like I said in the paragraph above I'll get the arms and towers and wait till I need a chassis to replace it. I think its actually very cool of AE to have these updates and update kits rather then holding back and releasing a whole new buggy every year or so.

Manshoon 20t with a 2200kv motor sounds too high to me. I'd be thinking 17-18t but Im just an amatuer when it comes to this electric stuff. I run a 20t on my 1900kv and its smoking fast. As for your diff question I think lowering the rear diff to 3k would be my first choice. The lighter rear fluid will help turn in and give more steering. Thicker fluid fights against the inside and outside wheels in a turn going different speeds. If you went to 7k in the front it would probably reduce off power steering but pull better out of the corner.

I ran this weekend at the local track. I am getting much better at driving! I only flipped about 5 times the whole day yesterday compared to about 500 times my first time at the track. Slow is fast. I spent about an hour watching the pros take the corners and stuff and it really improved my driving. The problem I keep having is the as$ end wants to slide around on me. Example. I m on the gas, I come to a corner get on the brake let off and start to turn and the as$ slides all the way around on me. It doesn't always do it which tells me it could be partly user error. It also goes the polar opposite meaning it turns but it's a super wide turn, not very sharp and precise. Any thoughts or help on this matter?

Could be a couple things. You may just have to learn to ease on the power out of the turn, or like I told the last guy, try thinning out your rear diff fluid. If your at 7, try 5. If your at 5, try 3. If your lower than 3 then I would work on your throttle control. A thinner oil out back will not cause the rear end to "lock" up so much under acceleration and allow the rear tires to rotate at different speeds, allowing you to gain more control, and have a tighter turning radius under acceleration.

[QUOTE=PTP Racing;9119985]I dont understand the controversy around the update. Get the items as you need them. The arms and towers are only like $60 thats a deal IMO as Ive seen some single towers cost near that by themselves for other vehicles. I plan to get the arms and towers when I can but Im gonna wait on the chassis until I need a chassis.

Why would you ditch the car and buy another because there are hopups available for your current ride? I bought the car just a couple months ago knowing the new parts were coming and figured just like I said in the paragraph above I'll get the arms and towers and wait till I need a chassis to replace it. I think its actually very cool of AE to have these updates and update kits rather then holding back and releasing a whole new buggy every year or so.

[QUOTE]

I can relate to what your saying. My only beef is that these parts cost $250, over half the price of the car. AE released this kit that is proven when all these parts work together. Im sure piecing the kit will improve some, but you wont get the best bang by only upgrading half of the equipment. At $250, I think Ill try a different proven chassis and go from there, instead of potentially wasting my money with parts that may not do me any good. Ill take that extra money and try a Mugen Eco that's been getting great reviews.

That's all im saying. Maybe I'll wait and hope someone at the track has the whole kit and I can try it. If its a huge improvement I might get it. Im at a loss to be quite honest, and im just interested in viewing others opinions.
Yours was appreciated

I have a quick question about the new parts and the e-conversion.

With the new chassis does the e-conversion still work?

I plan to make my buggy electric in the next couple months and I want the new parts and I don't want to waste the money on the new chassis if it doesn't work.

with all the talk about chassis it seems like a good time to ask if anyone has a new or very good shape stock chassis they want to sell. I bent mine bad. Oh, and i also need a new front shock

i know this is not e-bay but maybe someone has one to sell with the longer one coming out..

I have my buggy on order should be here on Thursday, I have a Tekin 2650 what gear should I use until I buy a new motor? track size is @ 160 x 40

i use a 20/46 but i only have a 1900 motor and that is plenty for me!!!!